Have a 1989 Grumman renegade that was built to an electric bass boat, all decked out with sub-floor. I’ve notice after a day of fishing I am getting 2-3 gallons of water, takes about 45secs to drain after pulling plug. With the sub-floor and the way the decking is I can’t get to much from the inside. Any ideas or how would I address this
I had an old riveted tin boat with the same problem. Had the subfloor so I couldn’t reset the rivets properly. What I would do it leave the plug in and put some water in the boat in the driveway. Just crawl underneath and see which rivets are leaking. I’d circle them with a sharpie marker, then go back with some jb weld epoxy over the rivets. Wound up doing this once a year for a few years until I finally got a new boat. Don’t know if it’s right but it worked for me.
I have a 1994 Tracker riveted boat that over the years leaked, I use these https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/b...-blind-rivets/ and marine JB weld. To repair drill out the old rivet, clean the hole area with 120 grit sand paper and before installing the rivet place a small amount of JB Weld around the hole, then install the rivet. Leak solved. I have found that installing JB Weld over the factory rivet works for a while, but starts to leak eventually.
This approach will definitely work, I did the same with a Lowe 1600V that developed some leaky rivets over the years. A dab of JB Weld over the leaking rivet is a temporary solution but installing the new rivet is more or less permanent.Originally Posted by aclaimsman
I might be wrong but if you want permanently fix them, you will have to get to them from the inside. Seems like there is some youtube videos that show how.
3M 5200. Dries like a rubber tire.
-If you can get at both ends of a loose rivet.. you can tighten it very easily..One guy bucks with a heavy hammer.. Another guy taps a couple taps (Not smashes) on the other end with a typical claw hammer. The rivet swells to fill the hole. Typically, you do not have to replace a loose
. However, if you cannot get at both ends of the rivet... there are closed end rivets for water proof applications: https://www.bsstainless.com/stainles...sed-cup-rivets...
Do stainless rivets behave with aluminium hulls? When I was building my boat I worried about that and went with aluminium rivets and worked around drilling through the hull.
My method works if you have a solid foam filled floor and cannot get to the factory rivet, and is about as permanent as you can get. Also, why someone would use a stainless steel rivet is beyond me when you can use an aluminum one.
so i was underneath the boat today sealing every single rivet and when doing so i can across 1 rivet that had the head broken off. so i put a ton of silicone on it and will get that replaced soon
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