2020 Ranger 521L Tour, 300 Mercury, 112 Minn Kota Ultrex
3 12" Helix Units, Mega Si, Mega Di, Mega 360, Garmin 8412 W LiveScope mounted on Rite Hite Turret.
Built a harness, 12 gauge tinned marine shielded wire, has a 30 amp load capacity, got the wire off of ebay, sold per foot, bought 25ft used 22 COST 23.00, weather resistant fuse holder 3.00, posi tap wire connector 1.00 each. Where applicable, all wirings soldered, double shrink tubed using marine grade shrink tube. Run Relion 12v R100HP battery for cranking, all electronics hooked to it via bus bar. Graph, HELIX 12 Gen 4 show 12.9v and screens are clear as day w/ no glitches or voltage drops during start up. Hope it helps
Some boat builders do provide a separate circuit for electronics with proper wiring. A few years ago BCB started doing so on their premium boats. 6 gauge, fused, from the battery to a terminal bar at the console and 10 gauge from there to the graphs. I believe Phoenix also provides proper wiring for graphs in some of their rigs. Not sure if any other manufacturers are doing it.
2019 BCB Classic
Merc V8 200 4S
Check out the Sea Clear Power Wiring Harness
Here!
https://www.precisionsonar.com/produ...wiring-harness
Last edited by 20XDC; 01-23-2021 at 12:31 AM.
Love mine...money well spent on my older Ranger..
Do you shorten the power leads on the graph when adding SeaClear. Kinda crazy heavy wire coming to console, only to connect to 4 feet of tiny wire to the graph
Dedicated wiring for electronics is a must. I have a brand new boat and thought I would need dedicated wiring. My new Vexus has 6 gauge wire to the console buss. Then 10 gauge to the bow buss. This is how all new boats should be wired. 2 tenths drop from battery to bow. I’ll take it
2024 Phoenix 818, Mercury 175 (3B414035) Trick Steps, 3 Garmin 106 SV,s, LVS 34. BoatEFX dual bow mount. Ionic 12V 125AH, 2 12V 100 ah LiTime’s for the TM. Minn Kota 345 PCL charger,
2021 Vexus AVX2080
Sapphire Blue
Mercury 200 Pro XS
Garmin Force - 36v
Garmin ECHOMAP Ultra 126sv (2)
Garmin LV34
Ionic & Epoch lithium batteries
2020 Ranger 521L Tour, 300 Mercury, 112 Minn Kota Ultrex
3 12" Helix Units, Mega Si, Mega Di, Mega 360, Garmin 8412 W LiveScope mounted on Rite Hite Turret.
What else is common to that #6 AWG to the console, does that include bilge pumps, livewell pumps, etc? If so, not clean dedicated power for your electronics. My Ranger has #6 AWG to console and then #12 to bow, but the #6 includes all the other electrical power. I ran dedicated power to console and bow for the electronics.
6 is a little heavy for 2 graphs that pull 3.6 amps isnt it
Ya, I see what you are saying.... I just looking at the schematic and it looks like the bow electronics runs to a big bus bar at the bow then wires run back to another bus bar at the transom then to the master shut off... there are other things coming off the bus bar it appears...
2021 Vexus AVX2080
Sapphire Blue
Mercury 200 Pro XS
Garmin Force - 36v
Garmin ECHOMAP Ultra 126sv (2)
Garmin LV34
Ionic & Epoch lithium batteries
Fish have fins, they swim
I just bought all the parts to make my own. A little over $130 for a 10ga. , 2 circuit harness with a cut off switch and fuses.!!
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Its both
The thicker each strand of the wire the harder it is for current to travel and the longer the wire just multiplies this
This is what causes voltage drop
If your using 6 awg you want a Class M cable
Standard 6 awg is a 259/30 meaning 259 strands of 30 gauge wire
Class M is 660/34 as you can see it has twice the strands and smaller gauge strands
I have this 6 awg M class from my battery to a fuse block and then 10 AWG 105/30 "Hook Up" wire from the fuse block to each graph
I see very little voltage drop even at the bow 20 feet away from the battery
"The handicapped angler"
The Sea Clear Harness is a quality product. I run it on four Lowrance Live 12's and my NMEA network, ONLY. Can it be built by the user cheaper? Sure it can. And it may actually be better to do so depending on you application. It can also be used to run power to fuse blocks or buss boards if you prefer. It takes out the guess work. It can be a little tricky to route depending on your boat as it is a harness that runs from the stern of the boat to the console and bow at the same time versus individual wires. But it also keeps things clean and neat and is a perfect "one harness" solution. But whether you use the Sea Clear harness, other boat brand harnesses, or run the proper gauge individual wiring, the key to all of it, and to get your electronics to operate at their optimum regardless of brand, is to use a dedicated circuit for your electronics if you can. I cannot stress this enough. What I mean is have a dedicated battery to power your electronics and network ONLY. Nothing else. Keep that circuit clean of livewell pumps, bilge pumps, cranking , lights, power poles, etc. This will also eliminate a huge drain on the cranking battery as well.