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  1. Member Especial Bryanmc57's Avatar
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    #61
    What I'm trying to figure out is the best way to connect the 18g power cable to the 8g wire from the battery (without using 3 or 4 step down butt connectors).


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    #62
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryanmc57 View Post
    What I'm trying to figure out is the best way to connect the 18g power cable to the 8g wire from the battery (without using 3 or 4 step down butt connectors).
    terminal block or a step down butt connector.

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    #63
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryanmc57 View Post
    What I'm trying to figure out is the best way to connect the 18g power cable to the 8g wire from the battery (without using 3 or 4 step down butt connectors).
    two options

    HYDRA Battery Cable Extender - T-H Marine Supplies (thmarinesupplies.com)

    Trolling Motor Hardwired Terminal Block - Trollingmotorparts.com

  4. Member Especial Bryanmc57's Avatar
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    #64


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  5. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #65
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryanmc57 View Post
    Thanks. Exactly what I needed.
    Those are not what you want to step down 10 to 18. Those are for heavy battery/trolling motor cables.

    Either use a terminal block, or step down specific butt connectors.





    I use a combination of the above for my bow units. I run 8 gauge to the Blue Sea Fused Terminal Block mounted in the rod locker, then run 10 gauge from there to a non-fused terminal block at the bow, under the bow plate. Then 18ga from it to the Units. You could do it simpler with a single block, but I didn't want the fuses to be under the bow plate, which would meaning having to remove all the bow electronics and mounts,plates/etc if I needed to change out a fuse. This way, they are right there in the rod locker.

    or you can use simple step down butt connector - this single connector will transition from 10 to 18


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    #66
    I know probably not what everyone sees as “correct,” but I’ve done this forever and never have had even a single issue. I take a butt connector that fits the larger wire, then I twist the smaller and larger wire together. Insert both into the butt connector and crimp. I take an added step probably not necessary, but for piece of mind, and close up the open end with liquid electric tape.

  7. Member
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    #67
    Quote Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
    Those are not what you want to step down 10 to 18. Those are for heavy battery/trolling motor cables.

    Either use a terminal block, or step down specific butt connectors.





    I use a combination of the above for my bow units. I run 8 gauge to the Blue Sea Fused Terminal Block mounted in the rod locker, then run 10 gauge from there to a non-fused terminal block at the bow, under the bow plate. Then 18ga from it to the Units. You could do it simpler with a single block, but I didn't want the fuses to be under the bow plate, which would meaning having to remove all the bow electronics and mounts,plates/etc if I needed to change out a fuse. This way, they are right there in the rod locker.

    or you can use simple step down butt connector - this single connector will transition from 10 to 18
    Why would the battery cable extenders not work? It's just a post with plastic wrapped around it

    crimp appropriate ring terminals on the wires and be done with it

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    #68
    Quote Originally Posted by jerzia View Post
    I know probably not what everyone sees as “correct,” but I’ve done this forever and never have had even a single issue. I take a butt connector that fits the larger wire, then I twist the smaller and larger wire together. Insert both into the butt connector and crimp. I take an added step probably not necessary, but for piece of mind, and close up the open end with liquid electric tape.
    pretty much how i do it except i use a solid tinned copper splice with hydraulic crimpers and marine shrink tubing over it. a hydraulic crimper mechanically welds them together.

  9. Scraps
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    #69
    Good investment regardless. Less power consumed, better for electronics, saves recharge time.

  10. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #70
    Quote Originally Posted by dramabeats View Post
    Why would the battery cable extenders not work? It's just a post with plastic wrapped around it

    crimp appropriate ring terminals on the wires and be done with it
    Well, technically they would work, but I suspect one would have a hard time finding an appropriate ring connector for 18ga wire that would fit over a 5/16x10 or 10x24 stud :).

  11. Member Especial Bryanmc57's Avatar
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    #71
    Quote Originally Posted by 78Staff View Post
    Well, technically they would work, but I suspect one would have a hard time finding an appropriate ring connector for 18ga wire that would fit over a 5/16x10 or 10x24 stud :).
    Didn't look to hard but found a few... #10 stud is 3/16"

    https://henrysautowarehouse.com/prod...d-red-18-22ga/


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  12. Member 78Staff's Avatar
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    #72
    Quote Originally Posted by Bryanmc57 View Post
    Didn't look to hard but found a few... #10 stud is 3/16"

    https://henrysautowarehouse.com/prod...d-red-18-22ga/
    yeah 5/16 is the tough one I guess. As stated, they will work but are really designed from Trolling Motor cabling or Battery cabling, ie heavier/thicker guage - not smaller diameter wiring like 18ga electronics, lights etc. But if it works for you that's all that matters :).

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