2008 opti rough idle after sitting a while

[vroomZOOM]

Hello

New to this forum but not to boats, I have trolled around iboats and marineengine for a few years, but when this problem popped up no one could offer any advice, BUT I heard there are some experts here!

Anyways, I got a 2008 Opti 115 1.5L (S/N 1B556310) that has a misfire at idle. It has sat for a year or so without proper winterization. So when I went to start it I put it in break in mode just in case. When I tried starting it, it runs for 2 seconds or so and then misses with a slight noise out the exhaust. Sounds exactly like this guy's motor, except that mine misfires a lot more often and noticeable: .
A week ago some mud daubers plugged up the pee hole in the engine, so I unplugged it and it peed like niagara falls. A few days later and those SOB's have plugged it again! Maybe they plugged something critical in the engine? idk. So here is what I have done so far:

- Removed injectors and have had them done by injector shop that has done many optimax injectors. Decided to do this since rough idle issues from other people's experience often came from plugged injectors, besides I would know they are clean and I can sleep well knowing I won't fry the pistons from going lean. Flow deviation was 3.67%, 2.62%, and 2.19% after cleaning which is a good set of injectors. Put the back on the engine and no change. The guy that did them said they were pretty clean to begin with.

- Compression Test. Tested cold was 115, 115, 115, exactly bang on, not even a slight deviation. (I guess it's really patriotic about being a 115)

- Drain and clean VST.

- Remove fuel tank, dump, rinse and refill with new 91 octane (no ethanol)

- Check water pump, was in very good shape

- Confirm oil pump was actually pumping oil

- Cylinder drop test. Disconnecting any cylinder made the engine slow down, and when it missed it would stall, regardless of the injector that was unplugged.

- Pulled the belt off and the air compressor pulley is smooth, but has resistance when starting to "compress".

So now I am at a loss as to what I should check next. My gut feeling is that those mud dauber critters plugged up something in the engine that needs to be open for it to work properly.

Second issue, probably due to the damn critters mentioned ^^^^^. I have water coming out of the pee hole, maybe a little bit out the prop, but not much otherwise. When I connect the flushing attachment and turn the hose on, there is not water coming out ANYWHERE. So I was going to full send it, screw those idling problems, and go out for a rip, BUT I think something is plugged in the block and that I might overheat, so I decided not to risk it and get it done properly. I recall reading somewhere that a pee stream does not mean water is going through the block. Any advice appreciated!

[lpugh]

Get it out of break in first, 87 octane fuel, 10% alcohol is fine, Use quickleen with ever tank, double dose for on tank. Take look at the plugs and be sure they are ones that mercury requires and are gapped correctly, you may have created this problem, very likely they will need replacement when out of break in
If problem still exists have air/fuel pressure tests performed.
Almost 4% variation would be unacceptable to me, that is a lot for a motor that is as finely tuned as an optimax, what I would know is if the flow rates were up to spec, as the best ones could be on the low side and know you have up to 4% reduction on that
May be wise to consider contacting Don at European Marine about evaluating the entire fuel rails assy including the direct injectors Injector Service

[vroomZOOM]

Thank you for your help

To get it out of break in I need software. What is the straight up cheapest stuff that will get it out of break in? A few trips to the dealer and that's the price of RINDA diacom. Don at european marine says 4% max, or at least that was what people have been saying that he has been saying on the forums. Guys that have been having idle issues had a flow variance of 10% or more. Plugs are the proper iridium ones, don't remember off the top of my head but yes I checked on the internet that they are the right ones. Also is seafoam ok for that engine? I checked the plugs, gapped to 0.032 as per recommendations. What could go wrong with the fuel rails? Isn't it just a tube??? Now yes now that you mention it the plugs are wet so I will try putting new plugs in. Also if they are wet maybe letting it run maybe with a little load would burn them off? My only concern with this is that I am not sure if it is cooling properly! I am trying to find a fuel pressure gauge right now to do the fuel/air pressure test. There is a tube going from the air rail through a black canister thing and down into the driveshaft housing. maybe if an insect plugged the tube it would make the air pressure climb until the engine does not get fuel, so it misses? But no way to tell without pressure test. Also is that compression any good? Also I have attached the injector test file, maybe Don @EuropeanAM can chime in on this one.
Alexei, Optimax Siemens Deka, 3 pcs-page-001.jpg

[vroomZOOM]

Thank you for your help

To get it out of break in I need software. What is the straight up cheapest stuff that will get it out of break in? A few trips to the dealer and that's the price of RINDA diacom. Don at european marine says 4% max, or at least that was what people have been saying that he has been saying on the forums. Guys that have been having idle issues had a flow variance of 10% or more. Plugs are the proper iridium ones, don't remember off the top of my head but yes I checked on the internet that they are the right ones. Also is seafoam ok for that engine? I checked the plugs, gapped to 0.032 as per recommendations. What could go wrong with the fuel rails? Isn't it just a tube??? Now yes now that you mention it the plugs are wet so I will try putting new plugs in. Also if they are wet maybe letting it run maybe with a little load would burn them off? My only concern with this is that I am not sure if it is cooling properly! I am trying to find a fuel pressure gauge right now to do the fuel/air pressure test. There is a tube going from the air rail through a black canister thing and down into the driveshaft housing. maybe if an insect plugged the tube it would make the air pressure climb until the engine does not get fuel, so it misses? But no way to tell without pressure test. Also is that compression any good? I have attached the graphs and injector data from the tests, maybe Don @EuropeanAM cam chime in on this one.
Alexei, Optimax Siemens Deka, 3 pcs-page-001.jpg

[vroomZOOM]

Here is the injector test data, maybe Don @EuropeanAM can chime on this one. Is seafoam ok for that engine? Now that I think about it, the plugs are pretty wet. I Made sure they are the proper iridium ones gapped at 0.032". What is the straight up cheapest software that will get it out of break in? Diacom is still kinda hefty. Yes I am looking for a pressure tester to check the air and fuel pressure, I think they are the culprit. I would have sent out my stuff to Don, but I am in canada and the border takes a really long time nowadays.
Alexei, Optimax Siemens Deka, 3 pcs-page-001.jpg

[lpugh]

There is more to it than their report shows, the flow rates in that report would indicate that under the conditions tested the the rates were acceptable, but what about at a very high frequency (5000 rpm) The total spread I do not quite understand, but it appears to be a calculation of all 3 cylinders at a particular MS open time
I am sure Don will be able to add more to this
This chart indicates to me at those test conditions # 2 is flowing a little more than expected and 1 and 3 a little less, and the spread is more pronounced at 3 MS than at 7 ms
I don't know how tight that mercury feels they should be though, Quite sure Don will know
I am sure though that it just as important to know how the direct injectors are doing

At high frequency and long duration such as high rpm an injector pintle can stall, causing a rich or lean condition to occur. I did not see anything there to indicate a test for that. I am reasonably certain that Integrity Injection tests all of this

[vroomZOOM]

I tried posting but my post disappears for some reason! will try to do this in two posts maybe. Anyways, I checked the plugs and they are the right iridium ones, gapped at 0.032", albeit pretty wet. I will check the air and fuel pressure, currently looking for a gauge. AFAIK I need software to pull the engine out of break in mode, what is the straight up cheapest stuff? I have a feeling that the critters plugged the air pressure relief hole and the air pressure increases to the point that no fuel can get injected and the engine misses, the air pressure releases (less volume b/c no fuel) and it repeats itself. Anyways I will need the gauge to confirm/deny that. At about 1000 rpm on ears there is no miss. Also is seafoam ok for that engine?

[vroomZOOM]

ok here is the report, trying again:

Alexei, Optimax Siemens Deka, 3 pcs-page-001.jpg

[vroomZOOM]

Here is the spray pattern test on them, if that is useful:

[JOE54]

There is more to it than their report shows, the flow rates in that report would indicate that under the conditions tested the the rates were acceptable, but what about at a very high frequency (5000 rpm) The total spread I do not quite understand, but it appears to be a calculation of all 3 cylinders at a particular MS open time
I am sure Don will be able to add more to this
This chart indicates to me at those test conditions # 2 is flowing a little more than expected and 1 and 3 a little less, and the spread is more pronounced at 3 MS than at 7 ms
I don't know how tight that mercury feels they should be though, Quite sure Don will know
I am sure though that it just as important to know how the direct injectors are doing

At high frequency and long duration such as high rpm an injector pintle can stall, causing a rich or lean condition to occur. I did not see anything there to indicate a test for that. I am reasonably certain that Integrity Injection tests all of this

+1

[vroomZOOM]

I am going to test the air and fuel pressure, what should it be on this engine?

[JOE54]

air 94 +- 2 lbs/fuel 108+- 2 lbs , must be 14lbs difference

[vroomZOOM]

ok, thanks! it's just that most of the gauges they sell out here go only to 100psi, so I will have to keep looking.

[vroomZOOM]

Also how do I UNplug the cooling system? I really want to take it out for a mild drive. My seadoo was firing on only one cylinder, I took it out to WOT and then one more cylinder started firing, then the third kicked in and it ran good. Turned out later on that this was caused by the plugs. I am thinking that I have a similar issue here, I am going to get new plugs. They are the IZFR5J, correct?

[vroomZOOM]

ok tested the air and fuel pressure, results are as follows:

Fuel:108 psi
Air: 94 psi
At least I don't need to get a new air compressor or pump yet!

But I still didn't find what is causing it.

What should I look for next? New plugs are on order.

[EuropeanAM]

ok tested the air and fuel pressure, results are as follows:

Fuel:108 psi
Air: 94 psi
At least I don't need to get a new air compressor or pump yet!

But I still didn't find what is causing it.

What should I look for next? New plugs are on order.

New plugs should have happened a LONG time ago. Don't do anything else, at all until that has been done.

[EuropeanAM]

ok tested the air and fuel pressure, results are as follows:

Fuel:108 psi
Air: 94 psi
At least I don't need to get a new air compressor or pump yet!

But I still didn't find what is causing it.

What should I look for next? New plugs are on order.

New plugs should have happened a LONG time ago. Don't do anything else, at all until that has been done.



Alexai- does your unit do only a Dynamic Test? Is setup to handle 2-stroke injector RPM settings (ie: 6000 pulses per minute at 5.0ms for instance)?

Also... important that the Direct Injectors (they are the ones that actually control the spray pattern and final delivery) be tested. Most traditional equipment won't drive these injectors at true running parameters (including pressures appropriate for the injectors).

That being said... Get some fresh IZFR5J Spark Plugs in it, and run it long enough to get it out of Break-In Mode (avoid doing that again unless you're actually replacing a powerhead as the only way to get it OUT of Break-In is to expire the Break-in CLOCK).

[vroomZOOM]

Thank you Don, now I know specifically what to look for. 10-4 I am getting new plugs, they are on order but they should be here today, hopefully it is an easy fix! I sent out the fuel injectors to be cleaned because I could not sleep, thinking about the dreaded LEAN :( so I went ahead and had them cleaned. The injector man said that they were pretty clean, so I did not bother with the air injectors. The injector machine is not mine, I sent out my injectors to a guy that has the machine. (Can't really afford a multi thousand dollar machine to do diy work on my optipop) The machine is an ASNU GDI classic, from what I read it does support simulated rpm. Yes the guy said that he has capability to do air injectors as well, apparently he is very familiar with them and he has done them before. I will have to ask the guy about the testing thing, this is my first efi motor lol and I am learning a lot about them!

[vroomZOOM]

put new plugs in. nope, that didn't help, and yes, i did use the iridium ngk 5899 plugs. But it is starting to gradually misfire less, I am thinking it maybe just needs to run some more? I am scared to run it more though because I am pretty sure the cooling system is plugged. Yes there is tell tale but it doesn't mean water is going through the block! How do I clean out the cooling system?

[EuropeanAM]

Could be as simple as dirty or malfunctioning Direct Injectors (or a damaged reed).

What makes you feel that the "cooling system is plugged"? Is the engine overheating? Is the water pressure HIGH?