VAULT BUDDY HUB - MARINE MASTER TRAILER???

[BadAttitude]

Hi I was looking at the rebuilding instructions on these hubs. in the refilling section it states to use loctitie to the shoulder of the cap. my question is should I use red or blue or is there something better to use?

[Va Phoenix]

The red came in a kit they sent me to replace a seal on mine.

[billproxs]

They sent me RED IN a kit

[AustinV]

I used blue. Traveled over 3000 miles on them since redoing in April.

[electritek]

Marine Master has made a mess of their instructions and kits!! Their instructions indicate to install with a retaining compound. They supply a red loctite with kit. Red loctite is for a threaded connection, not a retaining compound. Used Loctite products for 40 years in industry, this is wrong application for red or blue Loctite. Loctite does make a retaining compound, RC 609. I's green and I would not recommend it to install the cap. If you really wish to put this install to bed, drill and tap the hub area where the cap goes 2 places 10-24 180 degrees apart. Install the cap with red high temp RTV and install 2 set screws and you are good to go. Mission accomplished. No more missing caps from pot hole and then bearing failure!

[electritek]

BadAttitude,

I recommend that you use the manufacturers instructions.

The recommendation to use Loctite provides both sealing and increases the retention of the press fit.

The Loctite provided in the Dexter service kits is Red.

Alternatively, UFP also has also recommended "Apply a thin film of Permatex High-Temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker to the bore surface."

This too provides an increase of sealing and retention. Clean surfaces are required before application of either. The hub ID can be easily cleaned with a solvent and Q-tip.

I currently have red Loctite on one side of my axle and RTV on the other. Both are doing their job (after 3 years) as part of my of my long term comparison test.

Lastly, BBC member DABS was a Dexter employee (now retired) that provided Vault support on this forum. You can look through his posts and find confirmation of these recommendations.

Rest assured, it is not necessary to hack up your hubs with set screws.

Here is what ships in their service kits:

Not a hack. There is room for improvement on many things in life. Red Loctite is recommended for threaded fasteners up to 1" Dia. according to Loctite specifications. Vault Caps are not threaded. Loctite spec sheet makes no mention of using Red Loctite for sealing or retention on a press fit. I have replaced many smoked bearings on boat trailers and one thing they all have in common--the cap is missing. Last year a friend brought his kid down for a fishing trip, had a smoked bearing when he arrived-cap was missing. I got him patched up so he could make it home after the weekend. He called when he got home. He found his cap on the garage floor, his kid used it for a step when climbing in the boat. I assume you are old enough to have lost a hub cap on a vehicle. Hub caps were installed with interference (press) fit also till they hit a pot hole. Couple SS set screws ($1.00) on each hub will prevent a lot of road side failures.

NEVER, NEVER NEVER apply RTV to the hub bore surface!!! When you install the Vault cap or rear seal you push excess RTV into the bearing cavity contaminating your lubricant causing bearing failure. A thin film to the sealing surface of the Vault cap and OD of the rear seal and remove excess after installation. The same amount of excess RTV you wipe off on the outside after installation is equal to the amount you would have pushed into the bearing cavity if you apply RTV to bore! Anyone doing this at install needs to disassemble and remove the RTV.

[Bob G.]

Based on posts by DABS, I install the UFP Trailer Buddy's and rear seals on my trailer hubs with some Permatex high Temp Red RTV. Have not had the Trailer Buddy's fall off or a bearing failure.

[electritek]

Spec sheet.Red Loctite.jpg
I use products designed for the application.

[fishon396]

Thanks for the link

[Dan21XRS]

The mechanic at my local boat shop said to use Loctite gasket maker 518... It's a red gel... Dan

[electritek]

For those following that would like to educate themselves about Loctite products:

One key fundamental difference in these anaerobic adhesives is their shear strength. They are engineered to work on steel. Rest assured, these adhesives do not know if you put them on pins, sleeves, or threads.

The ISO (International Organization for Standardization) has developed a testing standard, ISO 10123, that covers how to determine the shear strength of anaerobic adhesives using pin and collar test specimens. The Engineers at Loctite (Henkel) test their products to this standard, and publish them in their technical data sheets.

I've posted a couple of examples of published shear strengths for comparison below.

It seems the dumba$$ Engineers at Dexter axle have recommended red Loctite to both seal the Vault joint, and add strength to the light press fit. I'm confident that they chose a product that increased the robustness of the joint while still allowing it to be serviceable. A higher shear strength product would likely require heat (think torch) for service.

Pretty much spot on. They have made a mess of their instructions as previously mentioned. They recommend Retaining Compound, Red Loctite and High Temp RTV in various instructions.

[electritek]

My 3 year+ ongoing test of both red loctite and high temp RTV suggests those dumba$$ engineers are competent and understand their application. I don't see any mess at all based on my testing.

Congratulations on 3 years testing. Have 40 years industrial maintenance experience. Have used Permatex High Temp and Loctite products extensively and know their proper use and application. I use products based on manufactures recommended use of their product. It's very elementary, read the instructions and spec sheet of the product. I recall when Ford engineers decided the correct air pressure for Firestone tires.

[electritek]

ISO 10123 deals with elementary shear strength of anaerobic adhesives. One example is red Loctite 263. These numbers are published in the Henkel technical data sheets.

Outside of your set screw hack, is their an anaerobic adhesive you would recommend instead?

Again, congratulations on 3 years testing. Excellent verbiage and references on your posts. Suggest you might leave the office and touch base with the Millwrights on the plant floor that make things happen. Explain to them ISO 10123, they will suggest you take your 3 years testing and go back to the office with your pencil and keep testing. On previous post didn't you suggest application of sealant on bore of hub, lack of common sense!

[electritek]

UFP oil bath hub cap.

Lost one of my ufp oil bath caps. Trailer is a Ranger Trail 2003. I have done some searching but I am having difficulty locating one. No, I don't want to go to grease. I like the oil bath hubs and don't mind doing the maint. required. 17 years and this is the first problem and lucked out no bearing damage. Any help will be appreciated.

[electritek]

UFP oil bath hub cap.

I have a 2003 Ranger Trail that needs a UFP oil bath cap. The one with yellow lens and 2.238 diameter. I have done some searching with little success. I want to keep the oil bath so grease is not an option. Being an older boat, I doubt Ranger will have them in stock. Any help or info will be appreciated. 17 years and this is the first problem. Hub cap came off on an extremely rough road. Fortunately, when I meet my partner, I check the hubs for heat and found the missing cap. No damage and managed to get home with no problem.

[Ed R]

I have a 2003 Ranger Trail that needs a UFP oil bath cap. The one with yellow lens and 2.238 diameter.

https://www.easternmarine.com/ufp-fa...-trailer-parts