Line # test for grinding mid-depth cranks?
For those running fluorocarbon line or leaders, what test are you using? I lost two Damiki DC300 today, fishing ledgey rock out to 10' deep. The 10# Seaguar Red leader on 30# braid didn't cut it when a couple of fish took me into the cover, breaking the fluoro. I keep the drag pretty light, and landed 6 or 8 and rebuilt the leader twice on the water.
Skip the leader. I don't ever use one. I use 20# power pro, or 20#, 12 # stren saltwater line for cranking. I still got a 3000 yd spool of 10# big game from 1994, works great for deep cranking. I found the braid / leader deal to be pia.
I would use straight mono in rocks.
2023 Phoenix 819 pro
2023 200 Pro XS 4s 3B373365
pond boat
2020 pelican Bass raider 10E
I'd be using 12, maybe a small dia 15 mono. 10 is really thin for cranking around junk.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Been using straight 12lb sniper for my mid depth cranking on Lanier. No issues for me unless I don’t check and retie after being stuck in the rocks
Sounds like heavier, for sure. I've still got tons of mono from before I made the switch to braid on everything. I should add, everything's pretty clear here (average Secchi depth of about 10' statewide, compared to Lanier @ 6'-7' or Oneida @15', for instance)
I don't find bass to be terribly "line shy", 'cause their little brains can't conceive of fishing line. I'm not impressed with fluorocarbon, and changed from 10 lb FC to 12 lb CXX with no change in bites...Shakyhead fishing.
I know about the Secchi disc thing, but don't have one, or know where to get one that I feel like spending. I can usually see a beer can on the bottom in 12' or more, and have watched two good SM nose down on my jig & #11 pork frog in 22', straight down. I could see the tails of the pork frog waving when I jiggled it. No bite...bait too big. A 3" grub would have gotten bitten.
Don't bother me, I'm screwing for virginity.
I killed a 12-pack just to watch it die.
12 lb Sniper for me as well. This is true pretty much across the board for my cranking, to be honest, save for some shallow squarebill type stuff I tend to do on the Mississippi up here. As mentioned, check your line to make sure it isn't frayed and you'll not often have issues. Unless you're fishing really big rocks, the bill is usually what's contacting the bottom and taking the abrasion while your line will generally stay in good shape.Originally Posted by DeadOnJohn
The main reason I choose 12 lb instead of something heavier is so that I can get the bait down. 12 lb Sniper will usually allow you to get the bait deeper than advertised which is almost never a bad thing.
2011 Skeeter ZX225
225 Yamaha HPDI Series 2
Minn Kota Ultrex 112 52"
Console: HDS 16 Carbon
Bow: HDS 12 Carbon, Solix 12 G2, Mega 360, Garmin 106 SV, LVS 34
Been real pleased with 15 mono (Sunline Defier) for cranking mid depths - I just up size the crank to get depth needed. Bigger bills on the deeper divers deflect off the cover well. And with 15 I can get em out of the gnarly stuff most of the time.
10 or 12 CXX for me. It’s thick for its lb test. I use it for cranking and jerkbaits mostly.
2006 Triton SP-185, 2006 Evinrude Etec 90, PowerTech NRS3, Garmin Echomap Plus 73CV & 93SV
Seaguar Red is trash in my opinion. Very brittle. I won’t even use it for a leader when worm fishing.
Try 12 lb Seaguar Inviz-x. I’ve used it for years on crankbaits and am very pleased.
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Ranger z21
Mercury Pro XS 250
Lowrance HDS Live 12 and HDS Touch 9
Ultrex 112 lb
I just don't see the advantage of flourocarbon for cranking, even with a leader. I use straight mono (Big game or XT) mainly 14lb for a square bill. I don't fish deep water in clear lakes though. Im bouncing square bills off cypress trees and knees in stained or muddy water if I'm throwing a crank bait (sometimes a bandit 200).... In order to get a manageable fluorocarbon you have to put out some money. And it still won't handle as good as mono IMO. I have some buddies that think they have to throw fluorocarbon bc thats what most pros do but i catch just as many or more fish with mono and braid. And they always seem to break off on hooksets or hard cast. Nothing against fluorocarbon or people who use it but unless you have to get #1 really deep #2 fish ultra clear water
Flouro sinks and mono floats so flouro will definitely improve the depth when cranking. He did ask about mid-depth cranking, not shallow square billing. Using 10 lb flouro is sometimes the only way to get the advertised depths on some mid and deep cranks.
But even with square bills, I find I can cast flouro farther than mono and with less headaches especially on small square bills. I also like the sensitivity the flouro adds to let me feel what I’m bouncing off down there. Finally the mono has way more stretch than the flouro. Whether that is a good or bad thing is up to you.
Of course, none of this says someone can’t prefer mono (it’s certainly cheaper) or can’t catch a mess of fish on mono. Sometimes it’s just preference.
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Ranger z21
Mercury Pro XS 250
Lowrance HDS Live 12 and HDS Touch 9
Ultrex 112 lb
20lb 832 to a 10 to 20 pound leader you can adjust the depth with your bait depending on leader size and your crank is more reactive with braid
I'm leaning towards upgrading the leader to the same 15# that I'm running on my T-rigs around the same cover, to handle the rocks (they don't call it the "Granite State" for nothin'), and use the braid mainline diameter to control depth. If the leader "floats" the bait too much, I'll try shortening it (running 12' or so now).
I've been using Maxima Ultragreen in 10 and 12 for cranking the past few years and have been really happy with it. I also use 10 on the spinning outfit I use to skip docks, it has memory but some line conditioner helps. Also use it in 12 as a leader for walking baits. Been great for me.
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