Just me.....when they found water in mine I didn't even ask how much was in it I just asked ok how much to rebuild didn't want to risk it.
Just me.....when they found water in mine I didn't even ask how much was in it I just asked ok how much to rebuild didn't want to risk it.
Why is risking it even an option?
2023 Xpress H18 with 115 SHO and Powertech NRS4 21p
8" Bob's Action Jack
Garmin Echomap 12, 10, 9, and LVS34 networked with Netgear Switch
Ultrex
Trick Steps and Ramp N Clamp
Pulled by a 2016 single cab HEMI Ram
The school of hard knocks is a rough way to be educated!
You can change them yourself. I did the rebuild on mine for under 100. Had to make a puller though at work for it. Keystock a couple nuts and some all thread beveled to a point on the end for the prop shaft end. Pulled everything apart on my shop table and replaced all of the seals on it
01 Charger 395
2000 Yamaha OX66 225
Black 10' Blade
Garmin 93SV Humminbird 1159 console
Garmin 93sv bow
FX Custom Rods pro staff
What are all the tools I'd need if I were to tackle this job by myself?
Common hand tools. Pull the lower unit off. Some have to make sure its in neutral before pulling. I did have to build that puller which had 2 little hooks made from keystock that went inside the lower housing and the all thread to go on the end of the prop shaft that came to a point to hold center. Basically acts the same way as a gear puller. Just has longer legs. Once I pulled my lower unit off I just used the fitting from a LU oil bottle thats used to put gear oil in and some polytubing. Attached them together. Put a ball valve in line with it and a pressure gauge. Filled with 10psi and stuck the lower unit in a tote under water to watch where the bubble came from. Bought the rebuild kit from somewhere online. Full kit for entire engine. Around $100 or so. If I still had the rig I used to fill with air i would post a pic of it. I can post one of the gear puller once I find it
01 Charger 395
2000 Yamaha OX66 225
Black 10' Blade
Garmin 93SV Humminbird 1159 console
Garmin 93sv bow
FX Custom Rods pro staff
it may seem a little intimidating but its not the bad. Replace the impeller while you have it off too. If you can pull something apart and put it back together then you can handle this job. Did it in one evening. Did have some issues with the key on my impeller. Had to use a rotory disc and cut slices in the key to break it out
01 Charger 395
2000 Yamaha OX66 225
Black 10' Blade
Garmin 93SV Humminbird 1159 console
Garmin 93sv bow
FX Custom Rods pro staff
Pull the lower unit and pressure test it yourself. Shift shaft and drive shaft seals can be replaced yourself. Prop shaft seal would need a dealer to to replace. Good to have a Mercury manual for your motor too. I made a pressure tester from common parts and a bicycle pump.
2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870
01 Charger 395
2000 Yamaha OX66 225
Black 10' Blade
Garmin 93SV Humminbird 1159 console
Garmin 93sv bow
FX Custom Rods pro staff
I didn't want to tell you this because you seem a little mechanically challenged, but many prop seals can be changed at home. Get a illustrated parts breakdown, and there is probably a snap ring holding TWO seals back to back on the prop shaft. You take the snap ring off, and use the side of a sharp bladed screwdriver to scrape any irregularities off the housing around the seals. Then you drill a small hole in each side of the old seal. Thread a sheet metal screw into each side of the seal and with a claw, pull each seal out. Scrape any irregularities out of the cavity. Check the shaft for damage, drive two seals back in, use some sealant around them and replace the snap ring.
Not too mechanically challenged just from watching a video changing the lower unit seals on YouTube it looked like I’d need a couple hundred dollars worth of tools just to do the seal job myself, the guy also went in from the rear of the bearing carrier to remove the seals to disassembled everything. Figured if it was only going to cost a couple hundred more (after purchasing tools in the video)than to try and do myself I’d be better off just letting a shop do it.
Whatever. I changed mine in a 175 Suzuki, cost me the seals price. Worked fine.
GETFISHED !!!
Yep. We have talked about it on a couple threads now. Different motors are different.
My 250 that came on my 06 ARIES, manual tells me to tow in gear. And since my propshaft is stainless steel, not steel, it caused a problem there. Which mine had others. But a seal replacement would not work because a groove was worn into the propshaft, and it wouldn't seat.
Last edited by lpugh; 07-16-2020 at 05:24 PM.
Thank You Leon Pugh
Well, what Id like to know is why hasn't anyone mentioned the effect or pollution this is having on the lake (s). If its leaking out then where is it going? If you know its leaking then put the boat in the shop and get it fixed but using the boat knowing your creating an oil slick is wrong. We complain about chemicals being sprayed to kill grass in Florida, I don't think lower unit fluid leaking into your waters is any safer/better!
Compare the prices of replacing seals and replacing the lower unit. Personally? If it were me, I’d grab a plastic bucket and fish for bluegills while my motor was in the shop before trying to be a manly man and ride it out. YMMV.
I understand. Mostly because I guide you in the area and lost out on 3 booked trips. I didn’t end up risking it though took it into the shop yesterday. Hopefully only seals and nothing else. Water has only been in there roughly 1 month. What are the odds much damage has been done?
Should just be new bearings and seals. Glad to hear you are getting it fixed and not polluting!
99' 201 Pro Elite
08' Evinrude 225 HO
Thank You Leon Pugh
Got my lower unit back already. Luckily no other damage other than needing a new seal job!