Is there a mechanical issue that would cause a slow turnover/hard start condition?

[bigoilman]

Starboard Motor
MY2000
Ser. Number 0T054331
Model 1224483WD
225 DFI XL SW


This motor has been slow to turnover since I bought the boat 4 years ago. Keep in mind the port side motor has none of these issues.
Here's what I've tried so far:
*Batteries - there are 2 1000cca batteries running this system. Trying to start it on two batteries has little to no effect on the speed it turns over.
*New starter
*Voltage drop test (within acceptable limits)
*Replaced ground side terminals at batteries (there was some significant corrosion, thought I'd found it for sure but no change)
*Replaced starter solenoid (it would "click" intermittently and was getting worse)
*Finally, in an effort to rule out the electrical system, I bypassed it all and hooked a hot 1000cca battery directly to the starter solenoid. No change.

I'm an experienced auto mechanic. If this was a car, I'd say the timing was off by the way it acts. Or a leaking injector, but it does it all the time (even if you turned it off a few seconds ago.)
Runs like a champ once it starts (aside from a surging RPM issue that developed recently).

Is there anything mechanical in these Optimax motors that would make this one so hard to start?


Thank you in advance.

Richard

[Savage]

A Failing compressor.

You should also consider REPLACING BOTH battery cables on that motor, due to internal corrosion.

[bigoilman]

A Failing compressor.

You should also consider REPLACING BOTH battery cables on that motor, due to internal corrosion.

Thank you for the response. A failing compressor will cause hard starting? Not doubting your answer just trying to understand how.

Thanks again.

[EuropeanAM]

"Increased Mechanical Friction" (of any portion of the Rotating Assembly, including the Air Compressor, the Powerhead, or the Gearcase).

I tend to agree- replace BOTH battery cables for that engine. If you have a battery SWITCH, you need to test it to make sure it can carry the LOAD consistently. More often than not- they CAN'T.

Make sure that the rubber STOP for the upper endcap of the starter is in place, and properly indexed. Also make sure the two grommets are intact and viable. Anything that allows the starter to move excessively can result in binding.

[bigoilman]

"Increased Mechanical Friction" (of any portion of the Rotating Assembly, including the Air Compressor, the Powerhead, or the Gearcase).

I tend to agree- replace BOTH battery cables for that engine. If you have a battery SWITCH, you need to test it to make sure it can carry the LOAD consistently. More often than not- they CAN'T.

Make sure that the rubber STOP for the upper endcap of the starter is in place, and properly indexed. Also make sure the two grommets are intact and viable. Anything that allows the starter to move excessively can result in binding.

I have all of the material here to replace the cables as well as a Hydraulic crimper for the terminals. I took those and the battery and the switches out of the equation and still have the issue.
I'll look at the starter again. I replaced it last year but saw no difference in performance afterward. Starter definitely isn't moving in any direction. I don't recall the rubber stop, but I'll look. Properly indexed? Could you clarify that? Thanks again.

[EuropeanAM]

The Rubber Stop indexes against the block in a specific location. If the starter is not oriented correctly, OR the bumper/stop is missing, it will cause binding.

[bigoilman]

The Rubber Stop indexes against the block in a specific location. If the starter is not oriented correctly, OR the bumper/stop is missing, it will cause binding.

Thanks again. Checked that. Starter is installed correctly and anchored securely.

Will it hurt anything to remove the belt from the compressor and spin the motor over?

[EuropeanAM]

For a cold-engine turn over comparison- no.

Keep in mind- you MUST supply water to the engine ANYTIME the starter will turn.

[bigoilman]

For a cold-engine turn over comparison- no.

Keep in mind- you MUST supply water to the engine ANYTIME the starter will turn.

Pulled the belt. Had no affect on cranking speed. Compressor feels smooth with schrader valve depressed and turning it by hand.

[EuropeanAM]

Just out of curiousity- can you snap a picture that shows the starter/intake and post it?

[bigoilman]

20200707_161115.jpg

Just out of curiousity- can you snap a picture that shows the starter/intake and post it?

[2dwoods]

Mine used to do that in cold weather but once it cranked it was fine ,I can't remember but seems I replaced the starter after fighting it for couple years ,if you have 2 engines I would swap starters just to see it's pretty easy

[bigoilman]

Mine used to do that in cold weather but once it cranked it was fine ,I can't remember but seems I replaced the starter after fighting it for couple years ,if you have 2 engines I would swap starters just to see it's pretty easy

Starter is new (was changed 6 months ago) chasing this problem. No change.

[Savage]

Aftermarket starter correct?

[bigoilman]

Aftermarket starter correct?

Yes, ARCO.

[Savage]

Put the aftermarket starter on the port motor, and install the port starter on the starboard motor. Hopefully the port starter is OEM.

[EuropeanAM]

Strongly suspect that the starter is not properly oriented to the cylinder block. The bolt in the top-cap (for the ground strap) is usually located further AFT from where yours is currently at.

Makes the location of the bumper/stop suspect. See the below image of your Arco Starter- the RUBBER STOP (that should be inside the yellow circle) is MISSING in the image.

Also- that triangle-shaped "stop" indexes into a similarly-shaped recess in the BLOCK. Yours is currently NOT in that position.

[bigoilman]

Thank you. I really hope that's the issue. Can't wait to get home and check!

[bigoilman]

Good news / bad news. It was installed incorrectly. correcting the orientation had no effect.

[JOE54]

had same problem with aftermarket starter one time , not any more though