For those running Relion batteries

[DoctorJJ]

As you know, they come with bolts that screw down to the battery instead of posts. I prefer posts and wingnuts for ease of access if needed. Ford 4.6/5.4 header studs are the right size, stainless, and fairly cheap. I got a set of 16 for around $12. They are a little long, I trimmed off a little over a half of an inch with a hacksaw and tuned up the threads with a file. I used a little VC-3 vibratite to make sure they don’t back out. Anyway, an easy and cheap conversion for those interested.

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[DoctorJJ]

Perfect. And I won’t forget my torque wrench for the boat toolbox as well.

https://www.emcstandards.co.uk/never...-any-electrica

You should consider installing the largest cables with the largest amp draw on the post first. This eliminates current flowing through smaller terminals with lesser bearing area.

You might also consider replacing the wing nuts with a hex nut and carrying a short wrench in your boat should you need to remove the nuts.

You can find the proper torque specification for the hex nut from your battery data sheet posted on Relion website.

[DoctorJJ]

Just so we are clear here, I put a tiny bit of VC-3 on the first 2-3 threads. Let it dry and then put the stud in. Still plenty of bare threads to make contact. That being said, the threads/post have little to nothing to do with the conduction of electricity anyway, the big flat bronze base that the rings set on is what is important. And my largest highest draw connection is on the bottom. The other are small draw.