couple questions

[omykee]

Getting ready to build my first rod and trying to do it as cheaply as possible, at least the first time around... can you guys suggest some type of item Id have around the house that would suffice as a " burnishing tool " ?? ( I was thinking about the back side of a plastic spoon ) I know I know please don't bust my chops... Also I cant seem to find info about the working time of the flex-coat wrap epoxy,,, once properly mixed and put on a piece of alum foil how long do I have before it starts to go off??? Any and all tips or suggestions are greatly appreciated... Mychael

[M-D]

you can use a fingernail to pack and the spoon or anything smooth would work to flatten the threads. Not sure about flexcoat, I have only used Prokote and when I first started building it seemed like a half hour was typical for me to get the finish on and I never had any issues.

[D.O.C. 989]

A six inch piece off a broken rod blank will be good for burnishing as are any old knitting needles or any other item similar, i have even seen guys use an old thin screwdriver. Don't know on the finish you're using but i would guess 10 to 20 minutes of good life.

[Hair Jig]

I used my thumbnail for years. Just be careful and go slowly.

The FlexCoat will be good for 15-20 minutes before it starts to get too heavy/thick to work easily.

More importantly ... how are you planning to turn the blank as it dries?

[omykee]

Im going to use a 10-12 rpm motor for both applying epoxy and drying... any suggestions, tips or insight would be GREATLY appreciated... thanks,,, Mychael

[ogrich31]

Im going to use a 10-12 rpm motor for both applying epoxy and drying... any suggestions, tips or insight would be GREATLY appreciated... thanks,,, Mychael

10-12rpm is fine, although a faster rpm would be easier for straight lines. You can also use high quality painters tape for the lines, but you said as cheap as possible.

Which flex coat are you using? Lite, high build or ultra v? You'll usually have a longer pot life with a lighter build epoxy. I believe I get around 20 or so minutes wirh both the high and ultra v, but I never time how long it takes. Heating the epoxy will result in a shorter pot life. Shop temp will also affect your working and cure time. I like to keep my work area around 70-80*. When the epoxy in the tray/cup/foil starts to gel up a bit, I will hit it with a little heat and apply. I try not to do this, but sometimes I have 1 or 2 more guides left, and it's quicker than mixing a new batch.

[BRADVAN]

It may seem simple but take your time getting the rod ready to turn for finish. Make sure the entire rod turns straight in the cradle(s), in other words make sure the handle is centered on the arbor that will be turning. Also make sure that the rod sets level otherwise your finish could flow "downhill".

[dan grulke]

Finger nail to pack, round object to burnish that doesn't leave a residue.

Flex coat about 30 to 45 minutes flattened out on foil before it starts to thicken. Blow through a straw over the mixed finish on foil to remove micro bubbles. You can use heat but that will shorten yuh our working time. If you leave it in a bowl or mixing cup that will shorten your working time.
Good Luck,
DG

[geodebasser]

I pack my thread with a small diameter round cuticle stick that is flat on the ends. They are very inexpensive at any beauty supply place. You can use the round part to burnish. I would buy a quality thread epoxy or paste like Prokote. I like to put a little heat on the epoxy while I am mixing to keep the air bubbles to a minimum. I realize it may cut down on the epoxy working time but I usually do my guides with one mix and the rest with another mix. If there are any air bubbles left I will rotate the rod by hand over a alcohol burner over the epoxy. Keep the rod at least a foot above the flame. I also have a slow 10 to 12 rpm rod turner . It would cause the epoxy to sag. I have learned that while keeping the rod level that I could rotate the rod quickly by hand for about five minutes and then put It on the rod turner. That eliminates the sag.
I like to do two coats over the guides. I start off with a thin first coat and after it has dried throughly on the rod turner, I go over the guide threads with a thicker second coat. You can do three coats if you have the time. As far as the decal and accents, I have found that one thicker coat with a two inch brush works best for me. That cut out the waviness. You do need to spin the rod by hand before putting it on the slow rod turner with the thicker epoxy.
There are several rod building forums as well as Mudhole videos on YouTube.