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  1. #1
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    Reviving an old thread for safety's sake!

    Back in 2017 there was a thread about a boat wreck. It was debated back and forth what caused the wreck. Some said operator error, some claimed the tiller bolt broke. This was the post: http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=778150 Anyway a couple of weeks ago I was replacing the swivel pin and yoke on my Merc 225 EFI. The tiller bolt had to come out to remove the steering cylinder so I thought it was a good time to replace it and the nut. I removed the nut, but the swivel pin is also threaded so it needed to be unscrewed as well. I barely started to turn the bolt and the head snapped clean off. I mean NO torque whatsoever!!! I don't know if it was cracked or weak, but it could have easily failed with possible catastrophic results. No opinion on whether that is what caused that crash mentioned above, but rather drawing attention to the fact that it is a safety issue that should not be overlooked.
    Last edited by jerzia; 06-23-2020 at 09:14 PM.

  2. Member
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    #2
    Do you know what grade the tiller bolt was on yours?

    When I replaced my steering cylinder it became quite obvious to me that there is zero redundancy in the connection of steering control to the motor. Until that point, at least for me being a relative noob boat owner at that point, I really hadn't given it much thought. I went back with an ARP bolt when I put the new cylinder on but the whole thing still makes me nervous with no redundancy built in and really no practical way to make some kind of redundant connection to back up the bolt. On the Yammie it's the same thing where the bolt is threaded into the steering arm and then you add a nut to the bottom. Not much clearance so I found a low profile jam nut that still had a nylon insert. Thinking it might be worth going back with a little loc-tite on things too.
    Kevin | 2000 Champion 19​1 | 2000 Yamaha OX66 200hp

  3. Member
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    #3
    It was the correct bolt and nut, BUT it was the original and two decades old. I do agree with no redundancy it is something that should be checked. Obviously mine was weak be it from age or whatever, but it made me stop my work in mid stream and think about how easily it broke.

  4. Member
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    #4
    Ya, I bet it did. I would have had to take a minute too. I saw one comment about replacing the ARP bolt with an ARP bolt every year. I think that is probably a bit overkill, but on the flip side, how long should you go before changing them? Probably somewhere between every year and 2 decades....

    The bigger reminder to me is your experience with that bolt breaking like that. I think we all get complacent about checking hardware, it's a good reminder to be meticulous about it!
    Last edited by 1bluemcm; 06-24-2020 at 10:19 AM.
    Kevin | 2000 Champion 19​1 | 2000 Yamaha OX66 200hp