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  1. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #21
    Quote Originally Posted by rocketman6965 View Post
    It’s .093. Never measured before or have the right tools for this so I used a 3/32” (.09375) drill bit. It fit “snugly” on the back side of the butterfly. It almost went in on the front side.
    Joe- check it on the back (flywheel side... highest point) of the blade. Your bit should slide out with resistance, but the plate SHOULD NOT MOVE as you come out. If the plate "clicks" or you see it move, repeat several times to make sure you are angled correctly.

    I can tell you that .005" will make a difference.


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  2. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #22

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  3. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #23
    Ok. Back in town. Verified air gap .093. Replaced suspect plug with new. NOTE Plug shown is original plug in #6 cylinder run at idle on muffs for 3-5 minutes (last video) in #4 cylinder spot.

    Below is link to how it sounds now and original #6 plug.

    Attached Images Attached Images

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  4. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #24
    I believe it sounds pretty good. If #6 ends up fouling again then we know it wasn’t the plug. Fingers crossed.
    Fishing on Friday. Will report back then.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  5. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #25
    Does not sound good to me, Something is wrong with at least one cylinder, I can hear it in the exhaust note. Perform a cylinder contribution test to see if one of them as less rpm change
    Maybe be normal for a 300XS, but I have my doubts
    Thank You Leon Pugh

  6. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #26
    Thanks Leon is that the same as a cylinder drop test?

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  7. Member
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    #27
    yes do a cyl misfire /drop test
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

  8. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #28
    Ok. Still have problem after fishing tournament on Sunday. So today this is what I did in order:

    Check "sludge" accumulating on only one part of the prop. (Picture attached) Looks like nasty motor oil.
    Ran on muffs at idle for about 3 minutes.
    Checked #6 and #4 plugs. Found them very wet. (Pictures attached) The #6 was taken from #4 and the #4 is a NEW, properly gapped plug.
    Did a coil misfire test with accelerated idle. 1200-1500RPM. Didn't see/hear difference. All had great spark.
    Removed and replaced fuel filter and inspected that part of VST. Fuel filter extremely soiled for only 10-20 hours max. (picture attached)
    Drained fuel from vst. Found crap in filter cavity. Wiped it out with clean rag. (picture attached)
    Rebuilt pulse pump.
    Good news! I didn't screw anything up further. Bad news....still sounds the same
    Attached Images Attached Images

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  9. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #29
    Looks like the main fuel line from the tank may be deteriorating and passing very small partial's to the vst and filter, I am basing this only on the color of the filter and that small amount of black deposits. When find concerns of contaminants in the filter area always start at the tank the source and work toward the motor, I would consider starting by draining and cleaning the tank first, pulling fuel sender and using a Air powered vacuum to clean the tank thoroughly, then inspect/replace all the fuel lines and bulb, inspect/rebuild the pulse pump, clean out the VST (top removes)and at least recheck the filter if it has been run
    This may or may not be your your problem but it could very well be the root cause of it.

    When doing a cylinder drop test use a timing light with tach and monitor the rpm drop on each cylinders when disconnecting the wires, would be a good idea to set the idle rpm to about 1000 to 1200 instead of holding the throttle open, needs to very stable during this test for accurate results, a few layers of paper under the roller can accomplish this

    Have the injectors been cleaned and validated, if not might be wise to contact Don about getting this done
    Last edited by lpugh; 07-14-2020 at 08:56 PM.
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #30
    I think the BLACK fuel filter is coming from BLACK fuel lines, possibly automotive type lines are being used.



  11. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #31
    Thanks guys. ALL the lines EXCEPT for a small run going from tank to my inline fuel pump are SAE Marine purchased at West Marine. Let me clarify. From the tank the hose runs to an in-line Mercruiser filter that is for a 500MAG EFI inboard racing engine. Then it goes to an in-line fuel pump rated for 35GPH. The line from the tank to the filter is only 6” long and May be original line. I know for sure I didn’t replace that small section. I remember being too lazy to remove from tank when it became a little difficult I will probably get rid of that whole setup and run just APPROVED MARINE fuel line from tank to primer bulb which is in bilge compartment. At that point I will take Leon’s advice and inspect and clean tank. It is a 2000 boat. Will also clean VST and have injectors inspected again before I run it again.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  12. Member lpugh's Avatar
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    #32
    Quote Originally Posted by rocketman6965 View Post
    Thanks guys. ALL the lines EXCEPT for a small run going from tank to my inline fuel pump are SAE Marine purchased at West Marine. Let me clarify. From the tank the hose runs to an in-line Mercruiser filter that is for a 500MAG EFI inboard racing engine. Then it goes to an in-line fuel pump rated for 35GPH. The line from the tank to the filter is only 6” long and May be original line. I know for sure I didn’t replace that small section. I remember being too lazy to remove from tank when it became a little difficult I will probably get rid of that whole setup and run just APPROVED MARINE fuel line from tank to primer bulb which is in bilge compartment. At that point I will take Leon’s advice and inspect and clean tank. It is a 2000 boat. Will also clean VST and have injectors inspected again before I run it again.
    This would be the wise thing to do
    Thank You Leon Pugh

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    #33
    Quote Originally Posted by lpugh View Post
    This would be the wise thing to do
    Sure will be!
    _______

    Phil
    '09 Hewescraft ProV
    '09 150 Optimax


  14. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #34
    Replaced fuel lines with type 1 A15 lines. 3/8 from tank to bulb. 5/16 from bulb to pulse pump.
    Drained both sides of VST. Removed lower fuel pump to thoroughly clean. Checked float was working properly.
    Had injectors serviced and flow tested.
    Checked plugs had .043 gap.
    Prior to this I replaced fuel filter and rebuilt pulse pump.
    Have not run out in lake yet.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  15. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #35
    Well.....still have the problem. Ran it today starting just after 6:30AM. It was already 81 degrees and 95% humidity!!!! I really don't know what else I could do.
    It runs GREAT at WOT. See pasted link below. It is when I ran 3 props. A 26 Fury4, 27 Fury3 and a 30 Bravo. Top speeds were 82, 88 and 86.5 respectively. Today I topped out at 81.1 in this weather with the 26 Fury which is not in "perfect" shape like when I compared props. The only thing I can think of is changing ALL the spark plugs. I must confess that I bought the cheapest ones online and maybe they are the counterfeit ones you guys have been talking about.
    On a side note, I enjoyed the day and caught this nice 4 pounder on topwater....YEEHAW!!

    Prop run link:

    http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=864622
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    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  16. Member Bob G.'s Avatar
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    #36
    I wouldn't cheap out on any part replacement at his stage of troubleshooting. Go with recommended Mercury OEM stuff.
    2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870

  17. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #37
    Ok well I haven’t heard from the experts since my post #35. I can’t believe it is electrical now after that 81MPH run. Don I know you said “probably not a reed” but COULD it be a reed? I am going to replace ALL the plugs with known source plugs but I believe it won’t help. After this would you recommend looking at the reeds even if it is just to eliminate that from the equation? Thanks for all the help so far.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

  18. Mercury 3L/4 Stroke/Verado Moderator EuropeanAM's Avatar
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    #38
    No harm in inspecting the reeds- you might possibly see something there.

    Are you still running an extra fuel pump in this system? If so... what is the reasoning?

    Also need to clarify what components your 1.1 DBR kit consisted of. That's certainly an area that has to be considered as well.

    Did you get printed reports on the injectors?


    Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
    Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
    Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor

  19. Member rocketman6965's Avatar
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    #39
    Quote Originally Posted by EuropeanAM View Post
    No harm in inspecting the reeds- you might possibly see something there.

    Are you still running an extra fuel pump in this system? If so... what is the reasoning?

    Also need to clarify what components your 1.1 DBR kit consisted of. That's certainly an area that has to be considered as well.

    Did you get printed reports on the injectors?
    Well it was a reed.

    Answer to your questions:
    Eliminated fuel pump when I did work on post #34 but the reasoning behind it is to avoid vapor lock.
    DBR component that probably caused failure is the cowling air mod. That thing is designed to let in everything except bowling balls. I hit a BIG bird and slightly cracked carbon fiber shield that goes in front of cover. Maybe part of the bird got sucked in the plenum?
    DBR 1.1 kit consist of the flashed ECU, air mod and billet air handler ring.
    My buddy is parting out a 250 ProXS and it looks like it uses the same reed block.
    The "sludge" on my prop could've been a one time event when the portion of reed and bird part went through the motor.


    Here are some pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by rocketman6965; 07-30-2020 at 12:55 PM.

    Joe Perez
    Boatless white trash

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    #40
    now on your BIRDMAN
    .................................................. ...the scariest thing in life is the unknown ...................................

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