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  1. #1
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    Dual 12’s on an iClass

    I’ve talked to a few people about this setup after being questioned about it on my LSS2 vs SS3D post so figured I post it up. It was fun and challenging to get everything happily situated but I’m very pleased with how it turned out. I had the factory unit recessed into the dash when I first got the boat a few years ago with the intent of using a Ram or Johnny Ray mount as I’ve used on previous boats. The Johnny Ray’s weren’t pretty but I liked them compared to the Rams. Didn’t really like either when picking up rods and catching wires with the baits so figured I’d try to mount one in the dash. With a completely plastic dashboard with two large gauges to try to stay between, this was going to be tough. After a couple drafts trying to sandwich the old recessed hole and making a bracket off of it I decided to try something else. A friend and I took the old dash plate off and took measurements. From there we entered and double checked everything in CAD. By doing that, we were able to move the two gauges as far out to the sides as physically possible giving more room for my then 9” unit. Cut out a new metal dash plate (that still screwed into plastic) with the waterjet and it fit awesome.

  2. Member
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    #2
    From there I eventually decided I wanted either another 9” or possibly one 12”. After redoing the bracket off the dash plate to support a single 12” for sure and possibly a second as well, I added the cross brace that I could install to support the dual 12’s or take off and still run the single 12” fairly quick and easy. I noticed quickly the additional size and weight of the single 12” was pishing the limits of my dash plate screwed into my plastic dash. Back to he drawing board where I added a back plate for the front plate to sandwich the plastic dash and make it very sturdy.

  3. Member
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    #3
    Then came the bracket which I offset slightly to toward the outside to help keep the units out of the aisle, and slanted them inward just a shade to help with the viewing angle.

  4. Member
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    Apr 2014
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    #4
    To this point I have had it on some but water but not when it was terribly bad. Hopefully I never have to, but if I am and don’t think it will habdle it, I have one more way to try to brace it to make it hold even stronger. At this point though it feels VERY sturdy and I’m comfortable to leave it as is for now. I usually keep mapping and left side scan on one, and 2D, down, and right side scan on the other. There was much more work doing the fabricating from scratch that I thought, but well worth it in the end.
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  5. Member
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    #5
    Also opened up the aisle way more by removing the second console and installing these in place of the console. Carpet doesn’t match but it’ll do until I decide to do the carpet in a year or so and replace the existing tan with gray like the lid and step.
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  6. Member
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    #6
    Thx for posting!!

  7. Member
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    Mar 2019
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    Mauriceville, Texas
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    269
    #7
    I was one of the curious ones! Thanks for posting here.

    Now you have opened another can of worms. Did you destroy your second console taking it out? Where did you get the FXR compartment and which model fits the 20i?

  8. Member
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    Apr 2014
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    Cynthiana, Kentucky
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by 84rickygreen View Post
    I was one of the curious ones! Thanks for posting here.

    Now you have opened another can of worms. Did you destroy your second console taking it out? Where did you get the FXR compartment and which model fits the 20i?
    Destroy, not exactly. I was told by pretty much everyone that there's no way to get the console out without some damage to either the boat or the console. That statement is true. Notice the black non skid material I used to cover the damage. When looking for it, it's easy to notice. So far with three other Skeeter owners that I fish with regularly, only one noticed it, the other two thought it had always been there. There are probably better ways to hide it but that's what I went with because I had a tournament coming up quick and that's how I've left it because I don't mind it. I haven't got started on it yet because of other projects I've been working on, but I'm hoping to come up with some way to have a quick latch system like some of the other brands so that I can put this console back in for bad weather or family trips. The problem with that lies in the fact that the console and the glove box lid both tie into the back of the rod locker. Mounting one without interfering with the other will be the biggest challenge there. As for the glove box lid and step, I believe this one in particular came out of a 2018 FX. The lid doesn't exactly match up to the hole but even after finding an original iClass lid and seeing how flimsy the plastic was, I decided to make the aluminum lid work. So glad I did, and it's really nice to have it with the slam latch. I think any ZX or FX lid/step plate in that year range will fit as mine did but the iClass hole is longer than the aluminum lid. I have some edge trim on there now and it seems to do okay but I'll likely run some silicone around the lip and put the trim back on to make sure water stays out for good.

  9. Dink Flipper alpine4x4's Avatar
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    May 2011
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    East Wenatchee, WA
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    #9
    You can run some aluminum flat strap from the back of the dash to the screw that holds the windshield on to create a back brace. I did that with my install of my 9" on my custom starboard dash and it is rock solid. It has been through two years now and some really nasty waves and has held up fantastic. I didnt go with a 12" as I didnt want to block the factory gauges, looks good though!


    06 Skeeter 20i Yamaha 250 HPDI
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