2004 225 Optimax - new owner

[Johhno19]

Hi all,

new to this great forum, there’s such a lot of really useful info on here for these engines.

I bought a new rib last august with a 2004 225 optimax. I’ve only used the boat a handful of times last season (Probably 30 hours max) and with Covid-19 lockdowns this year it probably wont see any use for at least another month, by which time we’re already halfway through the season here in the UK.

My engine runs really nice, but has unknown provenance. Was serviced just before i purchased, but that was just gear oil, plugs and filters (although not exactly sure which filters!). I’m handy with spanner’s and DIY maintenance and have plenty of engine maintenance and rebuilding experience, albeit with motorcycles. This is my first big 2 stroke outboard (my last boat had a 150 4T Mercury which didn’t need much looking after).

I’ve just bought a service manual and having had a good read through i have some rookie questions on which any advice would be welcomed. i spoke with a local engine specialist who suggested that due to the low hours since last service, probably didn’t justify another service this year given likely number of hours I’ll be getting.

So my questions for the collective expertise;

1. My smart craft gauges dont work (booked to to try and resolve in July) so previously unable to monitor engine temp. I’m now more informed that the engine temps on these engines are critical and to be monitored carefully.
Given the unknown history of the engine is it worth replacing the thermostats anyway, for peace of mind?

2. I’ll remove the strainer to inspect and clean on my next visit. I can purchase PTFE pipe thread sealant, but when replacing the hose do you recommend using a cable tie gun to get the correct cable tie tension to avoid any leakage?

3. On my last visit i removed the lower cowls to clean and degrease and gave me an opportunity to inspect the lower sections of the engine. Looks ok but not sure if oil residues in the bottom of the cowl were from previous leaks or just someone not cleaning up when replacing something. should all oil hoses be fitted with 2 cable ties for added security?

4. Flushing - engine has been stood for 6 months over winter (was thoroughly flushed with fresh water after last use). I fitted the flushing muffs last week to run some water through (without starting the engine) but water did not exit the tell tale. I didn’t start the engine as couldn’t remember if tell tale only works with engine running and water pump pumping?! So just double checking - should the use of just the muffs result in water exiting from the tell tale, or will this only work once the engine is started?

I also removed the flushing bung adjacent the tell tale and inserted hose and a good stream exited via tell tale, so seemed good. i tried again via muffs and no tell tale (so wondering about the engine running question). Reverting a seocnd time back to the hose entry via the bung and no tell tale stream second time around. Now I’m wondering if there may have been some debris or salt build up thats now been dislodged somewhere and stopped the flow out of the tell tale?

Probably over thinking all of the above, so feel free to correct me!

I have also now found a threaded hose connector to fit where the bung is removable, so at next visit ill insert that and try again with hose to ensure a good secure fit and flow of water.

5. Have read here the merits of changing out the reeds for composite items. Looks a reasonably straightforward job, but not sure if i should be thinking or touching any of that - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it! Thoughts appreciated as it could be a job as part of the big service for next season prep.

6. Any other recommendations or checks i should be making?

thanks

[Bob G.]

Hi all,

new to this great forum, there’s such a lot of really useful info on here for these engines.

I bought a new rib last august with a 2004 225 optimax. I’ve only used the boat a handful of times last season (Probably 30 hours max) and with Covid-19 lockdowns this year it probably wont see any use for at least another month, by which time we’re already halfway through the season here in the UK.

My engine runs really nice, but has unknown provenance. Was serviced just before i purchased, but that was just gear oil, plugs and filters (although not exactly sure which filters!). I’m handy with spanner’s and DIY maintenance and have plenty of engine maintenance and rebuilding experience, albeit with motorcycles. This is my first big 2 stroke outboard (my last boat had a 150 4T Mercury which didn’t need much looking after).

I’ve just bought a service manual and having had a good read through i have some rookie questions on which any advice would be welcomed. i spoke with a local engine specialist who suggested that due to the low hours since last service, probably didn’t justify another service this year given likely number of hours I’ll be getting.

So my questions for the collective expertise;

1. My smart craft gauges dont work (booked to to try and resolve in July) so previously unable to monitor engine temp. I’m now more informed that the engine temps on these engines are critical and to be monitored carefully.
Given the unknown history of the engine is it worth replacing the thermostats anyway, for peace of mind?

2. I’ll remove the strainer to inspect and clean on my next visit. I can purchase PTFE pipe thread sealant, but when replacing the hose do you recommend using a cable tie gun to get the correct cable tie tension to avoid any leakage?

3. On my last visit i removed the lower cowls to clean and degrease and gave me an opportunity to inspect the lower sections of the engine. Looks ok but not sure if oil residues in the bottom of the cowl were from previous leaks or just someone not cleaning up when replacing something. should all oil hoses be fitted with 2 cable ties for added security?

4. Flushing - engine has been stood for 6 months over winter (was thoroughly flushed with fresh water after last use). I fitted the flushing muffs last week to run some water through (without starting the engine) but water did not exit the tell tale. I didn’t start the engine as couldn’t remember if tell tale only works with engine running and water pump pumping?! So just double checking - should the use of just the muffs result in water exiting from the tell tale, or will this only work once the engine is started?

I also removed the flushing bung adjacent the tell tale and inserted hose and a good stream exited via tell tale, so seemed good. i tried again via muffs and no tell tale (so wondering about the engine running question). Reverting a seocnd time back to the hose entry via the bung and no tell tale stream second time around. Now I’m wondering if there may have been some debris or salt build up thats now been dislodged somewhere and stopped the flow out of the tell tale?

Probably over thinking all of the above, so feel free to correct me!

I have also now found a threaded hose connector to fit where the bung is removable, so at next visit ill insert that and try again with hose to ensure a good secure fit and flow of water.

5. Have read here the merits of changing out the reeds for composite items. Looks a reasonably straightforward job, but not sure if i should be thinking or touching any of that - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it! Thoughts appreciated as it could be a job as part of the big service for next season prep.

6. Any other recommendations or checks i should be making?

thanks

Welcome to BBC.

1. Get the Smart Gauges working or install a MercMonitor Level 1 to monitor temps.

2. The cable tie gun is not as important as using the radial head tie-wraps. The compressor strainer should be checked minimum at once a year.

3. I'd clean all excess oil and monitor going forward for any potential issues. Check oil pump for any drips. If leaking, do not run the motor until replaced.

4. Tell tale only streams with the engine running. I have only used muffs to run my engine at home, never used the flushing port. If the compressor strainer is blocked, it will greatly reduce water cooling to the compressor. See #2.

5. I'm not a reed expert and have never looked at mine. Hopefully someone can help you out here.

6. I'd look at the sticky above and perform all annual maintenance: Replace impeller, spark plugs, VST filter, lower unit fluid. Check fuel hoses: If they are grey with red print, I'd replace before going forward with the new grey fuel hose with blue print or some other ethanol rated hose. Not sure if you have ethanol gas and to what content.

[silvertalon]

You should consider carbon fiber reeds as I've seen too many 2 stroke motors damaged by SS reed valves. There are several good composite reed valves available. TDR, Boyesen, Carson etc. Some prefer TDR. We like the Chris Carson reeds the best. Its a simple job for the mechanically inclined. This is also a good time to install a new inline oil filter and inspect or replace any oil pump feed lines. Also as previous input, always use the radius end line ties.

[EuropeanAM]

Welcome to BBC!

Some good info above. If you would, take a few minutes to look through the Forum Announcements, and be sure to provide the Required Info (serial number) when posting. Also a good idea to look over the FAQ Section, as there is a TON of useful info there.

I would use TDR's in this engine. They are designed SPECIFICALLY for this engine series. Don't use Boyeson- have had to replace several of those due to performance problems (tension is WAY off) and failures.



Our Parts Department carries the reeds, necessary gaskets, etc. AND the Radius-head tie wraps (Part# 816311T) which require only ONE (not two).

[Johhno19]

Thanks for the helpful replies so far. i still have a lot i want to learn about this engine and looking after it, but starting to find my way around it now. I've had a further read of the announcements and common questions, thats why this forum is so good - far more detail, support and advice here for this engine than on any of the UK forums.

Having searched extensively, i cant seem to find radius head tie wraps anywhere in the UK!!! So i've now ordered from the USA - hopefully the pack will last me a while though.

I'll order some reeds to replace over next winter - Don thanks for your post but because i'm in England i cant register for your site or receive parts from you.

On my next visit to the boat i feel more informed (from this forum and the new service manual) to now perform additional checks;
1 Pull out the thermostats to check/inspect
2 I think the VST filter was replaced when i purchased last year, but seems straightforward to remove and inspect.
3 I'll remove the compressor strainer to inspect - hence ordering the radius head ties.
4 have now acquired various Mercury recommended lubricants plus a grease gun for the lubrication points
5 will remove plugs to inspect and check gaps

I'll do a more major service ready for next season (gear oil, replace plugs, filters etc) as i've barely done any hours since the last service - more for my peace of mind that its all done and i know exactly where i am with everything.