Re-connecting cap to hull - what about this ply trim around the hull rim?

[BrianBumbleBee]

Having a hard time searching this because I don't know what to call it, but there's a maybe 3/8" ply around the inside rim where the cap screws to the hull. I'm guessing it was probably resined to make it hard / waterproof but it's falling apart in places. Maybe any of you guys have replaced this trim piece? Maybe peanut butter the whole thing and then drill for the screws? I'm also wondering how much bite the screws will have going back into the same holes. It looks like the hull and cap were riveted together and then screws for the rub rail. Any ideas much appreciated.

[rojoguio]

Manufacturers mix Vinylester/Polyester resins with Talc. They make a putty that is used to fill voids. No void can be left in the transom area. Is it wood/composite or a filler?

[rgsauger]

If it's rotted out, then you gotta cut it out, and glass in a new piece if you want the same fit and function as before. Peanut butter is good to bed stuff but glass over it is preferred. Even if just glass tape and resin

[Scott S.]

I just read some bull shit. The wood is used to hold the screws, that's it. Sea Ray used to pop rivet the deck to the hull. When I was building boats the hull and deck were glassed together using 6" wide strips of mat and 1708, length varied in relation to the area being tabbed. I've seen some custom boat builder use several tabs here and there to tab the hull to the deck. If I ever take the deck off a bass boat I'm going to get rid of the wood in ares that I can get my hands to and fiberglass the deck to the hull.

[rojoguio]

I misunderstood his question, thought he was talking about at the back of the cap where they seat it to the transom. The bass boat caps I have pulled had nothing to screw into, just the hull glass was thicker at the seam. Most were riveted seams with rub rail screwed over the top.

[BrianBumbleBee]

rg - yep, that seems like that's the right thing to do, no shortcuts just like everything else in rebuilding these things! I can see where they buttered it on there to begin with so just gotta find the right size ply.

rojo - this is for the strip of ply running all around the edge on the hull side.

Both of you guys have great build pics that have been helpful, I'll get some up here one of these days, thanks

[rgsauger]

Bbb, do you have the cap off now or are you working from the inside where the two meet? Don't sweat the thickness, 7/16 or whatever you got. Cut into strips Resin on all four sides. Peanut butter on one side and press to glass wall. Maybe have a buddy shoot some drywall screws from the outside to draw it up and spooge out the pb a bit. Smooth the pb with your finger to make a smooth radius at the edges. You can go over it with glass tape if you like. Once it dries, yank the screws. Drill holes and mount rub rail as needed.

Thanks for the kind words.

[BrianBumbleBee]

Cap is up in the air now, transom finished, got the stringers in and deck next so I can sort of see the light, ha. I like that idea of putting screws in first, but I'm not going to glass the cap to hull, just screw it together from the outside. I'm only working with a 115 Johnson, not a 100mph boat like yours!

[rgsauger]

Mines not 100 but I should be in the solid 80's in the next week. Several guys with a lot more hp than me are triple digits in Shadow hulls.

I was thinking, if you have a table saw, just rip some 2x4s and make your backer boards whatever thickness you want

[brushsjigs]

The wood strip inside the hull is just to give the screws something to bite into. The builders used Spruce wood due to its low oil content,, so the resin would soak into the wood. Dont use pine

[rgsauger]

The wood strip inside the hull is just to give the screws something to bite into. The builders used Spruce wood due to its low oil content,, so the resin would soak into the wood. Dont use pine

He could use fir studs instead of pine, right? Ripping them to make his strips....