Hey RGuthrie

[sowenssw]

I remember you posting about blowing out when your boat breaks over. I commented a few times on your original post, but wanted to start another post hoping you would see it.


My set up: 20XDC, (325hp flash) sportmaster 1:75's, 12" set back.

I started out 3/4" above pad, 28 bravo. The boat was an absolute beast coming out of the hole with very little to no slip at all when breaking over on plain and pulled so hard to top end it was crazy. Several guys commented that my motor was way too low, as I was thinking it was too, I used to run my 250 Sport 1-1/4 above pad. Last night I decided to go up to 1-1/2" above pad, the boat will not hardly even get on plain it blows out so bad when the bow breaks over, so sounds like the same issue you've been having.

Guess I'll start going down with the motor until it doesn't blow out getting on plain?? I know at 3/4 above pad I had 0 slip or blow out, now at 1-1/2" above the boat cant hardly get on plain it slips and blows out so bad.

I'm not sure what these v8's want, but I haven't cracked the code yet.

[C.Warrix]

Hydraulic Jack Plate will solve the issue!

[rocketmanjp]

Hydraulic Jack Plate will solve the issue!

+1 It does exactly the same on my 21SDC. You have to get on plane with the jp low and then raise it after breakover.

[Sleepy111]

Hydraulic Jack Plate will solve the issue!

I 2nd that! I just opted for the standard rapid jack when I ordered my boat instead of adding the extra weight of a hydraulic plate. Never could find the best spot for holeshot plans top end, you had to set it for either and live with it. Took the manual off and put a Bobs hydraulic on it 2 months ago and it made all the difference in the world. Take off with it bottomed out then raise it or take off with it high and drop it and it keeps the nose down. It wasn’t a hard swap out at all, having a buddy with an overhead crane made it easy. Wish I would’ve just went the hydraulic route from the start now, I will on the next new one for sure.

[sowenssw]

Awesome, makes sense, thank you all for the info!! I'm going with a hydraulic jack plate

[sowenssw]

10"?????? 12"???

[C.Warrix]

14

[Sleepy111]

14”, go with a Bobs, Rich at Hydrilla gear will fix you up with a deal on one.

[jr 22]

If you have a 20XD I would stick with the 12". You can always add BoB's 2 inch spacers later if you want to try 14.
Talk to more people, maybe you should go with less. It is a 20 ft boat with a 550# motor.

I forgot to include "absolutely yes on the hydraulic plate"

[DLAB]

Negative trim wedges and a custom foil worked for the one guy I know with a new MERC V-8

[sowenssw]

I still have my 14" from when I was running a 280, but its a manual, not hydraulic

[sowenssw]

I ran a 29 Pro Finish Bravo 1 XS last night, (3/16" cut off the flare) 1" above pad, boat was a rocket out of the hole, minimal blow out when breaking over, mid range was very impressive, conditions only allowed to run it to 6300 (with a lot left on the table) at 87.9 mph. Boat was extremely stable, a lot less stern lift, which is what I was needing. That's ~11% slip.

This was with full tank of fuel, live-well full, "tournament load", two guys

So far this is the best all-around set up for me. I have a prop source who wants me to try some pro-type props he's having cast and he will machine. First one out of the mold is a 15-3/8" 5 blade. More to come.

[RGuthrie]

I've been trying a Powertech 30p 5 blade which comes out of the hole, still slips once the bow starts to drop but it keeps biting until it finally is on plan. I too have been told to go up to 2" or over above pad but setting at 1.5" right now above pad. I'll lower back down to 1" and see what happens next outing. Many thanks to all for the advice and hopefully one day will be able to find the needle in the hay stack.