1987 Ranger 373V Bass Masters Classic Transom Rebuild

[trbolx]

Hello I’m new to the forum and have been reading up on transom repair. I have my dads old Ranger and have decided to repair the transom. I lost my dad to cancer in 2010 so this boat has a lot of sentimental value plus for a 87 model its in great shape besides the transom. I’m looking for some tips on prepping the boat for seacast. Ive been using an auger bit and have got a lot of the wood out. Just not sure on how I’m gonna prep the fiberglass from a 1 3/4” opening. Also the wood is falling out of the knee braces. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

[paulrodbender]

Just finished up my 87 374v. I cut the transom off and used Coosa board on the core and braces.3074EC35-EFB8-440B-AF75-89EC13D63E2A.jpegC726FB33-BF60-4716-996E-A809A8A470BF.jpeg623E9F0F-6D2B-4AB1-85D7-7EC86E0E9216.jpeg5BA92B3C-DC75-4E20-B3B4-D91F158A65BE.jpeg

[rgsauger]

Sorry about losing your dad. Totally understand the sentiment for restoring his boat. Check my build in my signature. Might want to do it right and cut the cap 3 feet or so forward. If your knees are rotten, seacast won't touch that.

[trbolx]

Thanks for the information fellas, appreciate it. Looking forward to getting this thing back on the water.

[paulrodbender]

I thought about Seacast but I'm glad I cut the outer transom skin as I later found out it had about 1,000 cracks and I had to build a new skin.

[paulrodbender]

A good thread to read on here is "Champ Full Transom Repair" by rojoguio, really helped me out.

[rojoguio]

His transom looks pretty rotten, I personally like skinning out, removing old core, access the knee braces from the back to replace, then go back with the new core. We all have ways to get the job done. I can turn one around in a week except drying & curing time. The flange must be left in place around the edge of the transom though. You have to have original skin to glass your new skin to. 3 inches is best. Paul is correct, my post is to help provide reference material for the DIY club. Not knocking a pourable transom but if all the old wood is not removed and the glass sanded how can you possibly get as solid a core as Coosa 26 & Epoxy. Epoxy is 3000psi adhesion, what is the adhesion of a poured core. Can't be much. There are only 2 types of connection here, Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical requires a "Tooth" to be applied to the Substrate for the resin to adhere to. Chemical, a reaction takes place allowing a homogeneous union to form. Anywhere wood still is stuck to glass the pourable can't get any mechanical adhesion to the glass substrate. Seems unless it never gets any moisture in it in the future it will have a mechanical union failure in the future or de-lamination to say it a different way . After all it is a boat transom, sits in water. Don't cut any more glass until you have a plan on how to repair. Your making more work for yourself.

[rgsauger]

Great advice, rojo

[rojoguio]

Thank you, it takes time to write in a way that is understandable. On the Champion page there is a thread about Champ transom problems. A member posted about older boats that are loved by their owners, and so the owner sees their boat is worth the cost & PITA to repair. His Ranger is no different. It has tremendous potential. I always like to do & see 100% put into a project. You never have to apologize for a quality job or fix a comeback.

[KCLOST]

I love those 300 series Rangers... Wish I still had my 88' 371V, I don't think mine had a wood core transom though??

[Rico370v]

I can't help with any advice on your transom, but I can tell you my father and I went halfsies on a 1981 Ranger 370V back in 2007. I lost him this past February. I've been doing some restoration work with this free time during shutdown, but finally took it out fishing for the first time today since he passed. I think we paid a whopping $5K for it back then. That sentimental value you talk about can make you spend your money in crazy ways, but I understand :-) Totally worth every penny, finger cut, trip to the hardware store, beer and angry gf or wife once you finally have it back on the water!

[BrianBumbleBee]

Maybe he should also tap around on the stringers too?

[Bryce612]

Had a the transom completely rod out of 1987 Ranger 360V. Due to the amount of foam Ranger put in the boat the repair technician was unable to separate the top cap to be able to glass in a new transom. I’m pretty sure he used SeaCast to get it fixed. I know it was a product that you mix together and pour in the opening. Pretty sure he sanded the inside real good after cleaning out all the rotted wood. He drilled holes in a few pieces of 90 degree angled fiberglass and shoved those in there to hold the transom apart to the width needed. This was all done about 10 years ago and it is still rock solid. No give whatsoever.

[trbolx]

Removed back of transom, got all wood out, knee braces cleaned out and everything sanded down to fiber. Stringers were good. Everything is sealed and back is glassed on and seacast poured. Just waiting on last gallon of seacast. I really dreaded this whole process but I can say that it really hasn’t been that bad. This thing is rock solid now. Thanks for all the information and suggestions. Will have some more pics in a week or so when back is finished and motor is on.

[rojoguio]

Prep like that should be done on all pourable transom repairs. If the skin is not thick enough to hold shape layers of glass can be added to the backside to stiffen it up before glassing back in place. You know what you have now. Not that other materials are inferior but in my opinion de-lamination of the repair is bad no matter what re-coring process is used. The integrity of the entire transom relies on the repair laminations being permanent. If you took any pictures of the prep work you did edit your last post and add the pictures of prep work for other DIY folks who may use your post for reference material. It is very satisfying to ride in a boat you fixed by yourself.

[84rickygreen]

I had my transom replaced 20 years ago in my 1984 Cajun Ricky Green Fishin' Machine. He removed the top cap and removed all of the rotten transom and cleaned up the knees. Replaced it with marine grade plywood sealed with resin and bonded to the hull. I am very pleased with his work and completed a restoration/upgrade project back in 2016. She's being passed down to my kids to use.

84 Ricky Green.jpg

[trbolx]

Almost ready for paint.

[trbolx]

Finished product!

[Rico370v]

Looks very nice! Did you simply spray pain on it or spray new gelcoat?

[OkieLure]

His transom looks pretty rotten, I personally like skinning out, removing old core, access the knee braces from the back to replace, then go back with the new core. We all have ways to get the job done. I can turn one around in a week except drying & curing time. The flange must be left in place around the edge of the transom though. You have to have original skin to glass your new skin to. 3 inches is best. Paul is correct, my post is to help provide reference material for the DIY club. Not knocking a pourable transom but if all the old wood is not removed and the glass sanded how can you possibly get as solid a core as Coosa 26 & Epoxy. Epoxy is 3000psi adhesion, what is the adhesion of a poured core. Can't be much. There are only 2 types of connection here, Mechanical and Chemical. Mechanical requires a "Tooth" to be applied to the Substrate for the resin to adhere to. Chemical, a reaction takes place allowing a homogeneous union to form. Anywhere wood still is stuck to glass the pourable can't get any mechanical adhesion to the glass substrate. Seems unless it never gets any moisture in it in the future it will have a mechanical union failure in the future or de-lamination to say it a different way . After all it is a boat transom, sits in water. Don't cut any more glass until you have a plan on how to repair. Your making more work for yourself.

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