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  1. #1
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    Champion transoms

    I am going to be looking at a 95 171. Is there a for sure way to check the transom for problems, seems that the mid 90s have more problems according to some here on this site. Any tips to help identify a bad transom will be much appreciated. I know about pushing on the motor and pecking with a screwdriver is there any thing else that works.

  2. Pat Goff
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    Jun 2004
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    #2
    Plastic handled screwdriver, use the handle to tap around the transom, mindful of where water could enter. Tap the handle, if it's a nice sound it's dry, if it's a thud it's wet.
    Pat Goff

    Two degrees from center
    of nowhere.
    Smithwick TX.

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  3. Member illinifish's Avatar
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    #3
    I had a friend look at a 96 model and what he did was ask the owner if he could back out a screw that was holding the transducer in. He brought along some 4200 to reseal it. The guy agreed to it and when the screw was backed out brown water started seeping out.
    Enjoying life in Southern Illinois

  4. Member
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    May 2015
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    #4
    biskitboy I'm answering your PM here so future Champion Fans can see also. I have replaced about a dozen Champion Transoms. Pat gave you sound advise except he suggested a screwdriver handle, I use a double nylon headed hammer. It's tiny. It was originally for tapping a sub-gauge tube set into a 12ga shotgun barrel. What I like about it is the sound it makes. I can consistently tap the same amount of speed while sounding a transom. The Champion bass boats of that era had a stainless trim where the Cap mated with the Transom. All I have seen were poorly sealed. Water gets in, rots transom. The transom braces are always rotted too, the 2x4 cross brace & 3/4 plywood knee braces if the transom is wet. I was doing transoms here on the gulf coast because nobody else did them and I had it down to a week turnaround except drying time. Some went 6 months to fully dry. Some had termites like my 171. You just don't know until you check it. Pulling a low screw out will usually be a good tell but I personally have perfected the "TAP". It does not lie. Let's say the transom is wet. They are so easy to skin out, correct, glue back together, Refinish seam it does not bother me. Mid 90's Champions will "Never Be Made Again". The single greatest riding bass boat EVER. Can't tell I like them, Right? I would have pulled the cap on mine anyway. I want a all composite Champ and so I bought one the termites helped with the restoration and for sure helped with the price! If you price a new bass boat the "Go Fast" mentality has totally moved away from the "Deep V". I often wonder why they didn't build the boats better, I think they would still be in business. Boston Whaler boats are over priced but Never Over Rated! Champions could have been in the same world. A used Champion made all plastic is better & much cheaper than a new Brand Boat if the real comfortable ride matters. Mine will be fully Saltwater integrated. I never understood why every saltwater boat has a center console and you stand most of the time your running. Champ Bass Boats are the Bomb here, running the Sound to reach the Marsh. I would have paid $10K for a perfect 171SC hull but who has one for sale. No, boat flippers are buying up used bass boats, put "penny shine" on them, sell to some sucker who does not know better. If just the transom is soft on a 171 sized transom I got $3500 to make all Coosa Composite & West Epoxy on the inside, perfectly matched on the outside, engine re-rigged, and we Test Rode together so no BS. Ask any other questions I will try to answer as best I can.

  5. Kansas Bass Club Moderator
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    Jun 2004
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    #5
    Why was quality control so bad? What was the issue with properly sealing things up before they left the factory? Seems there are a bunch of rotten Champion transoms.

    termites? Where does a boat get these at? I’ve read of several champs that had them? Did the factory have a problem with them or did the wood they bought already have them or eggs?

    Really too too bad they are nice boats and I’ve owned 2 of them as did my dad.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Bud here on the Gulf Coast the termites don't care which brand boat they eat. They even eat the flotation foam. When they swarm they get into all kinds of spaces. Wet foam provides all the moisture needed to survive & thrive. Go all Composite and keep your boat as dry as possible. Champion had a problem with the aft Cap trim. Why the other issues someone connected with Champion would have to answer. I'm not a guy that looks back. The boats are repairable, at the cost of new Brand Boat, it's like getting the engine free having one restored. If you do it yourself it's even more satisfying.

  7. Member
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    Jun 2004
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    Porter, TX
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    #7
    My 2000 203 Champ has the wet transom problem. Do you still do the repair? What is a fair cost estimate on this type of repair? Any other options out there to dry the transom and save it? Any thoughts or help appreciated.

    Thanks, David
    David Disler / Porter TX

  8. Banned
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    Jul 2016
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    #8
    Remove everything from the transom(engine, eyelets, drains, trim) and put heat lamps on it for a couple of weeks. Add a dehumidifier to the bilge area. Once your certain it's dry inspect it or have a professional inspect it. About all you can do is tap on like Pat said you hit a soft spot you will know it. I have heard of a few that were dried out and resealed without any other problems. Last I heard the repair was around $4,000 to replace it.

  9. Member
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    #9
    I know it has some moisture in it, but when I tap around it it all sounds solid. Right now everything is off of the transom. Don't see any rot or soft spots where the trim covered it either. Inside the bolt holes it is soft. When using the heat lamps do you need to open the top cap where the wood is or, are the 4 bolt holes going to be enough to let the moisture/steam out?
    David Disler / Porter TX

  10. Born on th Llano Estacado Tx Champ's Avatar
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    Jun 2004
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    Abilene, TX
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by H2O_Fowl View Post
    Why was quality control so bad? What was the issue with properly sealing things up before they left the factory? Seems there are a bunch of rotten Champion transoms.

    termites? Where does a boat get these at? I’ve read of several champs that had them? Did the factory have a problem with them or did the wood they bought already have them or eggs?

    Really too too bad they are nice boats and I’ve owned 2 of them as did my dad.
    Quality control wasn't bad. Poor preventive maintenance is the issue. All wooden transoms requiring occasional resealing. We're talking boats here that go back to the mid-80s (45 years ago). Who knows what kind of life they've had whether a 1985 or a 2000 which was getting close to the end of wooden transoms and stringers. How many other brands have as many boats that age still being used? If you look around, you'll see other brands sitting on a ramp with the outboard lying on the ground, so, it's not just a Champion issue. You may read about it more here because the Champion forum has twice as may threads and posts as the #2 forum. Check that out against Ranger, Triton and the big names. I see a lot of Champs rescued that were sitting out in the open, prime environment for termites. Kudos to the people that see these boats needing rescued and return them to their former glory. Just for the record, I had two Champs prior to my current one, a 90 and a 93. Both had solid transoms when I got them and still when I sold them.

  11. Member
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    #11
    DC Champ, not sure if you were asking if I still did transoms. I've been out of town crappie fishing. I really am trying retirement. You are about 8hrs away. Costs if 2x4 & knee braces need replacing too should be under $4K if your doing the rigging. That's Coosa Bluewater 26 core, epoxied in behind a layer of 1708 installed from the inside. You can see from my posts what is involved in a complete replacement job. Champion only used one thick layer of chop on the bilge side. You need to check where the bottom engine mounting bolts penetrated to the bilge area and see how thick the glass is because that is where the bolts tear through first when a engine is falling off. The wood will be super soft, the glass just cuts by the washer, and the whole part will pull out. Most of the ones I did really only had 2 of the 4 bolts actually holding the engine on. If you just have soft spots, they can be cut out, core replaced, skin reapplied, gelcoat repaired. You do not have to replace the entire transom where only a part is rotten. Sometimes the outer skin is not saved but smaller rot spots much easier to repair. I hope this helps inform you.

  12. Member BOW4UM's Avatar
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    #12
    You also see a lot cause people love them and instead of trashing the boat they repair it.
    2008 ChampioN 198 / 225 Opti ProXS! 1999 187 DC Elite / Merc 175 efi & 1989 184 DCR /Merc 175 xri

  13. TJNYSNP
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by BOW4UM View Post
    You also see a lot cause people love them and instead of trashing the boat they repair it.
    Very true.... Kind of like a 1957 Chevy thing for bass fishing enthusiasts

  14. Member
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    #14
    what year did champion go to composite transom ?

  15. Member
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    Jun 2004
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    Porter, TX
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    #15
    Thanks for all your info and the pics of your work. Took the motor, jack plate, trim strip and fuel tank out/off of boat. Drilled all the knee braces in a couple of spots on top and one in the corner at the bottom; all were dry and wood looked brand new. Drilled a hole below the engine lower bolts where the jack plate sits and wood was dry and looked new. Problem is from the top bolt holes. Drilled the 2 x4 bace in several spots and it was dry. Have been drying the transom for about a week. 3 lights on the outside and one on the inside 10 hrs a day. not brave enough to leave them on over night un checked. Skin temps are around 175 to 215 degs. So far everything is going good.
    David Disler / Porter TX