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  1. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    137
    #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Ratltrap View Post
    Yep, the brakes are self adjusting, each brake assembly on each wheel should under the proper conditions adjust themselves every time you apply the brakes and then let off the brakes and it goes back to neutral position. I didn't want you to pull out the master cylinder, just pull forward on the tongue, as long as you saw the fluid bubble up inside the master cylinder when you pushed in on the tongue then the by-pass is working properly and the free play on the master cylinder rod is good. I was concerned that perhaps your brakes were not releasing properly which caused overheating therefore screwing up the bonding issue with your brake pad material from the brake backing plate. Here is what I would do, I would get a new set of pads, if you can get the riveted shoes then that should cure the problem, if all you can get is the bonded shoes then I would find a brake shop that relines brakes and send them the pads and have them drill and rivet them. Send them the new pads along with one of the old ones so they can see the area that the piston hits and have them put in a few rivets in non contact areas. That should cure your problem. I have worked on many industrial pieces of equipment that you could not buy off the shelf parts for and clutches, brakes and brake pulleys that would have to be rebuilt, glue and rivets together are the only way to go in many applications.
    Hmm, that sounds like a pretty feasible idea, thanks.

  2. Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    137
    #42
    Sorry to bring this up again - However, I thought it was important to bring closure to this thread. The 1 and only thing that has worked for me is the Speed Bleeder. I just did this today after dragging my feet seriously took 5 minutes. I wedged a funnel in brake fill port and filled it half way. I then used a air tank line I had for a aerator. Open the bleeder half way, held the brake release in (not sure if that was necessary at all), and started pumping. I was amazed at the amount of air that came out. Took 5 minutes.

    Also, I now know that Cabelas didn't originally bleed the brakes correctly after the first replacement. I could always back up with the power unplugged. Now, after this bleed, I pulled the power and tried to back up, locked down, just like factory.

    Here are two different part numbers for you depending on your caliper

    http://www.speedbleeder.com/
    The Speed Bleeder stock number for the UFB DB-42 caliper is SB71620.
    DB-35 uses - SB71620#



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