2018 Ranger trailer pads falling off

[CatFan]

Just verified that my trailer rotor is the UFP 41071, which is UFP DB-35. Now to find some better pads.

Just be sure organic, not metallic.

[4stroke]

Thank you. I was wondering about that.

[wmitch2]

Riveted pads would be the answer I guess. But I don't know if they are even available. I'd check Nappa and see. I've never had one or seen one come apart like that.

[4stroke]

This is the second time around I have had to deal with this. So, I might jut put on what Ranger sends me first. Now, that I have some info, I will know what to do next.

What about using ceramic pads over organic?

[4stroke]

I was able to finally get the whole brake assembly replaced. This included, oil bath, calipers, brakes and rotors. The only issue that I was/am having is bleeding the brakes. We first used pressure on the actuator (old school way). Which didn't seem to work to well. Then I used my oil exactor with the brake caliper hose and air compressor. Still didn't seem that great. Then we used my buddies Power Bleeder to push the brake fluid through. I am starting to think these Ranger brakes and calipers just don't work all that great. The line is defiantly bled. One thing that has me guessing is the trailer is not locking down with power disconnected in reverse. You can kind of here the brakes dragging. Just not fully locked down. Also, it seem the rear brakes are working better then the front ones (tandem, brakes on all four). I could tell because there was more wear on the initial wear on the rear then the front. At this point, I just don't know if this all is by design or there is a slight possibility there is still air in the line. Any input?

[CatFan]

I was able to finally get the whole brake assembly replaced. This included, oil bath, calipers, brakes and rotors. The only issue that I was/am having is bleeding the brakes. We first used pressure on the actuator (old school way). Which didn't seem to work to well. Then I used my oil exactor with the brake caliper hose and air compressor. Still didn't seem that great. Then we used my buddies Power Bleeder to push the brake fluid through. I am starting to think these Ranger brakes and calipers just don't work all that great. The line is defiantly bled. One thing that has me guessing is the trailer is not locking down with power disconnected in reverse. You can kind of here the brakes dragging. Just not fully locked down. Also, it seem the rear brakes are working better then the front ones (tandem, brakes on all four). I could tell because there was more wear on the initial wear on the rear then the front. At this point, I just don't know if this all is by design or there is a slight possibility there is still air in the line. Any input?

Are you trying to push on the actuator itself? Much easier to stick a screwdriver up to the end of the master cylinder rod and pump them there.

[4stroke]

Are you trying to push on the actuator itself? Much easier to stick a screwdriver up to the end of the master cylinder rod and pump them there.

Bleed actuator first, then buddy at front with screw driver (for master cylinder rod), and me in the back. Open and close, open and close, open and close. I feel like we defiantly followed procedure. Just FYI, we just replaced the brakes on his basscat, used his Power Bleeder and it works perfectly, cannot backup with out trailer power. I spoke to another Ranger owner and he said he has had his brakes for 10 years (he is a tournament fishermen) and they are still good. Which to me, seems like his are not doing anything. Then I spoke with a totally different Ranger owner and he said, he has always thought his brakes haven't done anything. We are able to press the actuator (rod actually didn't work to well - I had to get on my back and press with both legs) in and the rotors are pretty tough to turn (We did have the tire off), so, they are working. I just don't know if this is by design or not.

[bgibson]

I had same problem with brake pads delaminating (coming unglued from metal backing) I replaced mine with the 1996 Kia Sephia pads. I used semi metallic. Organic pads cause less rusting but I have seen no problems since I made this change! Cars drive in rain and water all the time and it works for them.

[CatFan]

Bleed actuator first, then buddy at front with screw driver (for master cylinder rod), and me in the back. Open and close, open and close, open and close. I feel like we defiantly followed procedure. Just FYI, we just replaced the brakes on his basscat, used his Power Bleeder and it works perfectly, cannot backup with out trailer power. I spoke to another Ranger owner and he said he has had his brakes for 10 years (he is a tournament fishermen) and they are still good. Which to me, seems like his are not doing anything. Then I spoke with a totally different Ranger owner and he said, he has always thought his brakes haven't done anything. We are able to press the actuator (rod actually didn't work to well - I had to get on my back and press with both legs) in and the rotors are pretty tough to turn (We did have the tire off), so, they are working. I just don't know if this is by design or not.

Put a piece of tubing on the bleeder and stick the end in a jar with a little brake fluid in it. Leave the bleeder open. Takes a lot of pumping to clear those lines.

[4stroke]

@bgibson - Thanks, I am defiantly doing that next.

@CatFan - Yup, we did that with the jar and just enough fluid for the hose. When it was all said and done, we pumped in about 2/3s of fluid in that water bottle. How much fluid does a caliper hold? We where kind of thinking we need a lot more fluid through.

Also, I ended up emailing Ranger and was able to get the trailer manual (which I never received). It does specifically talk about the Kia pads. Wish I had the manual before - haha.

[CatFan]

@bgibson - Thanks, I am defiantly doing that next.

@CatFan - Yup, we did that with the jar and just enough fluid for the hose. When it was all said and done, we pumped in about 2/3s of fluid in that water bottle. How much fluid does a caliper hold? We where kind of thinking we need a lot more fluid through.

Also, I ended up emailing Ranger and was able to get the trailer manual (which I never received). It does specifically talk about the Kia pads. Wish I had the manual before - haha.

Pump until it isn’t bubbling. The system takes a lot of fluid. When I changed an axle and actuator, I had bought a quart of fluid. I was halfway through that quart at 4 on a Saturday afternoon, so I went and bought another. Ended up one quart was barely enough. If you let the level in the master cylinder drop, even for one pump, you are starting over. Constantly adding to that tiny master cylinder.

[4stroke]

So, about the fluid in the master cylinder, how full should I keep it during this process? My buddy was saying not below the "dip stick" level. Thanks

[CatFan]

So, about the fluid in the master cylinder, how full should I keep it during this process? My buddy was saying not below the "dip stick" level. Thanks

That’s probably reasonable. I have a plastic funnel that has rings around it that kind of locks in to the filler, so I can keep more fluid in there than the reservoir will hold.

[Rick H]

You want some kind of Ceramic pad if it hasn't already been mentioned. Youtube guy Scotty Kilmer really likes some Japan pads I forget the name. So far I have liked the PowerStop pads I have put on a few veh. so far. Work well and quiet, minimal dusting and pricing isn't crazy..

[4stroke]

@catfan - Thats cool. You have a make and model of that funnel? I would like to see it.

@Scotty Kilmer - Yea, I have watched some of Scottys videos. Thanks for the recommendation.

[CatFan]

@catfan - Thats cool. You have a make and model of that funnel? I would like to see it.

@Scotty Kilmer - Yea, I have watched some of Scottys videos. Thanks for the recommendation.

No, kind of wish I did. Grabbed it at Carquest and just blind luck it worked perfect for filling.

[Ratltrap]

I just wanted to throw in a little something into the mix, have you checked your master cylinder by-pass & free play adjustment? When you pull your tongue all the way out the master cylinder push rod should have about 1/16"-1/8" clearance before it hits the master cylinder piston. One quick way to check your push rod free play is to have the master cylinder near full, pull off the fill cap, pull your tongue all the way out and then push it back in .... not too hard and look down into the master cylinder fill hole at the same time you start to push in the tongue. You should see a small stream of fluid move internally from the hole in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and almost squirt out the top. Sometimes it's a small little burst that comes up and sometimes it's a lot, so make sure you are wearing safety glasses when you look into the reservoir to see if the fluid is squirting up when the stroke first begins. If you can't see the fluid by-pass then you will have to adjust the length of the push rod or you could have a problem with the master cylinder piston not coming back all the way to the neutral position to recharge itself for the next piston stroke. Also if your master cylinder does not have the proper free play then the brakes will never fully release as it will hold pressure in the system which will cause over heating and pre-mature wear on the pads.

[billnorman1]

^^^^Great tip!

[4stroke]

I just wanted to throw in a little something into the mix, have you checked your master cylinder by-pass & free play adjustment? When you pull your tongue all the way out the master cylinder push rod should have about 1/16"-1/8" clearance before it hits the master cylinder piston. One quick way to check your push rod free play is to have the master cylinder near full, pull off the fill cap, pull your tongue all the way out and then push it back in .... not too hard and look down into the master cylinder fill hole at the same time you start to push in the tongue. You should see a small stream of fluid move internally from the hole in the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and almost squirt out the top. Sometimes it's a small little burst that comes up and sometimes it's a lot, so make sure you are wearing safety glasses when you look into the reservoir to see if the fluid is squirting up when the stroke first begins. If you can't see the fluid by-pass then you will have to adjust the length of the push rod or you could have a problem with the master cylinder piston not coming back all the way to the neutral position to recharge itself for the next piston stroke. Also if your master cylinder does not have the proper free play then the brakes will never fully release as it will hold pressure in the system which will cause over heating and pre-mature wear on the pads.

So, I cannot pull the tongue all the way out without disconnecting the brake lines. Also, there is a piece of metal welded on the underside so I cannot see the master cylinder. I think this is what you are asking? I did push and see the brake fluid stream. The brakes defiantly release all the way. Also, in the manual I just read - Hydraulic disc brake adjustment is not necessary, they are self-adjusting.

[Ratltrap]

Yep, the brakes are self adjusting, each brake assembly on each wheel should under the proper conditions adjust themselves every time you apply the brakes and then let off the brakes and it goes back to neutral position. I didn't want you to pull out the master cylinder, just pull forward on the tongue, as long as you saw the fluid bubble up inside the master cylinder when you pushed in on the tongue then the by-pass is working properly and the free play on the master cylinder rod is good. I was concerned that perhaps your brakes were not releasing properly which caused overheating therefore screwing up the bonding issue with your brake pad material from the brake backing plate. Here is what I would do, I would get a new set of pads, if you can get the riveted shoes then that should cure the problem, if all you can get is the bonded shoes then I would find a brake shop that relines brakes and send them the pads and have them drill and rivet them. Send them the new pads along with one of the old ones so they can see the area that the piston hits and have them put in a few rivets in non contact areas. That should cure your problem. I have worked on many industrial pieces of equipment that you could not buy off the shelf parts for and clutches, brakes and brake pulleys that would have to be rebuilt, glue and rivets together are the only way to go in many applications.