2007 225 Pro XS S/N 1B541340

[salyer63]

I have this motor on a 20ft bullet, running a 1.75 Sportmaster, a 28 Bravo I with a 14” hydraulic plate I can only get it to 5040rpm at 62mph no matter where the jack plate is set at. It idles great and jumps out of the hole and doesn’t miss at all, just seems to hit a wall at 5000 rpm.

Motor was rebuilt and has around 20 hours on it. I spoke with the mechanic who rebuilt it and he seems to think the prop is too big, I do not have any previous data with this set up as the motor was not running correctly immediately after I bought it.

All fuel lines were replaced from the tank to the motor with what Don advises. The old fuel lines did not show any signs of deterioration and when the vst is drained there is no signs of anything in the gas.

Compression check shows 90psi on all cylinders, not sure if that is low or if the gauge is a little off. I will try to locate another gauge to double check.

I have not checked the coils with a timing light yet, will do so as soon as I have the opportunity.

One thing I noticed today is that the ECM says “Racing 250HP 3.0 L OPTI” and 8M8022142, which I know isn’t the part number but not sure of another way to identify it.....could this be the root of all my problems?

Edit to add that I run Vessel View Mobile and it does not show any faults, and that sometimes the warning horn does not sound when turning the key on.

[EuropeanAM]

8M8022142 would be a suitable calibration for this serial number.

Really should be able to turn that 28 Bravo-1 on that setup, at 1.75 ratio.

I would be checking the BASICS: Compression Test, SPARK TEST (timing light clipped to one plug wire at a time after engine is HOT), Fuel Quality/Delivery & Air/Fuel Pressure Tests, Verify throttle actually REACHING the WOT position (see Hotfoot Setup thread in the FAQ section).

Have a parts list from the rebuild, perhaps?

[salyer63]

I do have a parts list:

-new pistons and rings
-new wrist pin bearings
-new rod bearings
-new main crank bearings
-crankshaft seals
-head o rings
-new gaskets
-thermostats
-oil lines
-compressor reeds
-spark plugs
-cleaned all injectors


Is it acceptable to use the flush port to run the engine at idle speed?

[Savage]

Use muffs, not the flushing port.

[EuropeanAM]

Do not run the engine on the coastal flush attachment.

[salyer63]

Ok, I will have to get one before I can for spark, however, I found a plug wire today that does not seem to be making good contact with the plug. It just slides onto the plug very easy and there is no popping sound as it’s put on. That plug is also a little darker than other ones. 4ECEA848-BA46-4288-A73E-AA02FD094EDF.jpeg99CB0122-F077-424D-9690-DB4928987854.jpeg

[EuropeanAM]

Plug wires come in complete sets (Rhonda does keep SINGLE wires on hand for folks like you that might need "just one).

See her post, pinned at the top of the Forum for email contact info.

[salyer63]

I will order a set tomorrow. Do you think this is likely the cause of my problem? I would think if it was making partial connection it would not be running fine, but I will admit I am no mechanic.

[EuropeanAM]

These engines can be deceiving. I once ran a 5-cylinder Opti on the water for about 20 minutes (didn't even realize it until the 6th cylinder came to life at about 80....).

[salyer63]

I actually read that post a couple of days ago. I have a plug wire on the way, will update whether or not that gets it taken care of. Thanks for the help.

[salyer63]

The new plug wire did not change anything. I finally was able to check the coils with a timing light today and they all seem to be working. I checked the fuel and air also at idle but I only had one gauge and it wasn’t liquid filled. It was bouncing at 90 for the air and 100 for the fuel. Is there a gauge you recommend that I could order? Or point me where I need to go from here?