The internet. Vast stores of knowledge at ones fingertips.
Too bad most of it is wrong.
The long conversation on plate size warrants it's own topic.
This is for Mt. Home champs, NOT TN champs, apples and bananas, I'll get to that later.
LOOK at your boat. No I mean get on the ground and look at the angles, the distances, the measurements. It's all there with a purpose. WHY does your boat ride like it does? WHY does it handle and turn like no other? It's all in the back 4' of your boat.
The one we'll discuss today, there is a distance from the rear of the pad to the transom. That distance was tested to give the optimum distance to perform, maintain control and handle. WHY??
The why: anything moving through water creates a swell behind it. Easy enough to see. Your optimum distance is exactly at the top of that swell. But the swell will move depending on speed. So you want to be in front of the swell all the time, and NEVER be behind it at any time.
When you push the pivot point (your prop) behind the swell, very bad things will follow, and on a champ hull that very bad thing is you'll lose the ability to maintain control. When the prop loses it's water contact, so will you. The first thing you'll find in too much setback, the boat gets "Icy" feeling, you're turning the wheel, but the boat isn't reacting to it.
THAT will be your first clue you're in the range to bow hook. That happens when the keel has more control than the prop does, like jamming the front brake on a motorcycle. If it's in a turn when it takes over, the result is a 180 degree end swap. On a 1-10 scale of bad stuff that happens, bow hook is a solid 8.5, only things worse is blow out or collision.
And...all that for why? Because some internet expert told you to hang a 12" on your champ because that's what HE runs on his nitro?
And....and....your net gain mph will be....zero. We've already rigged just about everything on just about anything. Follow the path already taken. It's a lot easier.