Does anybody use cedar for replacement bunk boards on their trailer or is there a better option for wooden bunks. I do want to stay with wood and carpet
Does anybody use cedar for replacement bunk boards on their trailer or is there a better option for wooden bunks. I do want to stay with wood and carpet
Never tried it --- most use pressure treated.. but you need to be picky when buying.
I've had good luck by picking good straight boards with the fewest knots that are still a little wet. When I get them home will C-clamp them all together, lay on a flat surface with some weight to dry. If one warps it will do it then.
Cedar is not as strong as other options. Bends easier and tends to want to check. Also tends to be a little bit brittle when drilling and cutting.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I work with wood for a living and the only wood I would use other than Pressure Treated Pine would be Old Growth Cypress, and 4 pcs. of that would probably be over $600. PT is what I used when I redid mine.
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I used cypress the last timeI replaced bunk boards. It was not much more than PT wood at Lowes but it was SIGNIFICANTLY better quality. Knots are weak points so you want to get a straight board with as few as possible.
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Cedar, pretty soft and not as schtrong as yellow pine pressure treated. Don't complicate this.
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2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Pressure treated wood is corrosive. Read below or any of the thousands of Google results/articles.
https://8pointshome.com/modern-press...ber-corrosive/
Southern Yellow Pine is more than sufficient, no pressure treatment needed.
My 2002 Magic Tilt trailer came with Cypress bunks, still going strong.
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Especially don't use pressure treated if you have an aluminum boat. If will eat holes in the boat. I used pine and it has outlasted the originals. Be sure to leave the carpet open on the bottom so it can drain.
Forget whjat I used, if it was PT or pine that I painted. I painted whatever I used I know that and then added gatorbaks. They're still on there.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Hey everybody. Thanks for the help, I have a 4 bunk trailer, the 2 outer shorter bunks needed new carpet. I replaced the 2x6 with cedar and installed. As i looked at the trailer my long bunks and carpet they looked good yet but when I do replace I may need a stronger wood than cedar. Thanks again, always something to learn on these forums.
In the process of replacing bunks now and putting in gatorbaks. Talked to the local lumber yard and they recommended 0.60 pressure treated 2x6. It’s direct contact/foundation rated. Planning to install the gatorbaks and swap them on the trailer in the next couple weeks.
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This is how i did it, prepped the boards and mounted the g-baks to the boards. Went to the lake, dunked the boat, removed old bunks, installed new, done. Cut up the old bunk boards. Cordless impact driver made it go easy.Originally Posted by XingEyeballs
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
cypress is good but if you don't live in GA, Florida or Lousianna hard to get. I got some on my way down to Okeechobee about 3 years ago.
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I’m new here and realize this is an “old/inactive” thread BUT wanted to throw in my 2 cents of actual experience just in case the question/discussion ever comes up again. Whenever I buy a new “used” boat I always overhaul the trailer for peace of mind. For bunks I use only 2x6 (1.5” x 5.5”) western red cedar laminated to 0.75” x 5.5” pvc board. I laminate the cedar and pvc with “Liquid Nails Extreme” and “Cortex” screws/plugs. Cedar gets two coats of linseed oil (optional). The boards are fastened to the bunk brackets with counter sunk torque washers and galvanized carriage bolts. Counter sunk hole is filled with marine epoxy. They won’t be scratching the bottom or floating away. My 18’ Lowe Roughneck (65/90 jet) slides on and off with incredible ease. One person loading/unloading is so fast and simple. I use common sense on steep ramps (I have a boat on a roller trailer too). Virtually no flex in the boards and the red cedar/pvc will be 100% functional for decades. It’s much cheaper and just as good as the “Ultimate” option plus I enjoy the satisfaction of making my own custom bunks. Btw, I’m a retired professional forester, managed several sawmills, and worked with every commercial lumber species in North America and many from overseas. I know the pros/cons of cedar, cypress, pine, oak, and a lot of other species and western red cedar/pvc board is my first choice for trailer bunks that’ll be under boats less than 20’ long.
What is PVC board?
https://www.lowes.com/pd/EverTrue-Ac...ard/1000444033
Basically it is plastic that is sized just like lumber.
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I don't think PCV board will support anything if there is over 16 inches between undersupports. Too flexible.
I just put Gatorback over my old boards, they were treated and kind of soft on the surface. I need new ones, just didn't have them on hand, I'll change them later and put the 'Back on them.
I also deal in and work with lumber. I had some 2" thick mohogany and used it. Sure was had to cover up that pretty wood with carpet. Should outlast me..
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