Johnson GT 200 Troubleshooting help

[jakester136]

Hey guys I could Use your help.
I have a 1988 Johnson GT 200 that had been running flawlessly, I took It to the lake and ran it some yesterday without issue and then at the end of the day noticed my throttle linkage was sticking and keeping it stuck in high idle. When I got it home after a lot of inspection I realized one of the bolts on top of the engine below the timing base had backed out and pushed against the bottom of the timing lug keeping the linkage from returning all the way back to normal idle. I was able to pop the Linkage and timing lug off of the bolt so I could tighten it back down and my linkage returned to normal position. hooked water muff and fired up in normal idle and idled perfect......for about 15 seconds......right before I could turn the key off and call it all good it died like someone pulled the kill switch. Would not restart. Pulled spark plugs checked for spark, no spark at all. This one has me scratching my head. Neutral switch? Did my timing base or stator just instantly die? Been looking everywhere for blown fuses. Looking for ideas before I tear Into it

[Ranger481v15]

I would start with the stator. I have been having problems out of my gt175. The guy I talked to said that if the stator goes bad it will just go bad all of a sudden and there will be no spark(of course).

[omcforever]

I would start with the stator. I have been having problems out of my gt175. The guy I talked to said that if the stator goes bad it will just go bad all of a sudden and there will be no spark(of course).

I would get a new "guy" first.

[omcforever]

If you are going to do it yourself, invest in a real OMC service and repair manual for your setup. Saves $$$$ and you learn about your motor. Check all connections/connectors, ect first. Check battery connections(no wing nuts but stainless nuts and washers).

[316jughead]

Do you have the black button type push on kill switch or the red clip on type? With the black button type, pull off the button and push and hold in on the kill switch and see if it starts

[jakester136]

Ok so I pulled the flywheel and ran a serious of resistance checks on everything i could think of. Power pack and all coils check good, stator is low end of the range but checks good, neutral switch checks good, kill switch is working, the timing base I get very inconsistent resistance readings across the pins but have not been able to find real clear instructions on how to test it. also appears to have a hairline crack down the housing so I’m thinking it may be the culprit. Magnets all in tact on the flywheel, the middle one seems a little worn but it’s still in one piece. Anyone here tested timer base on one of these?

[headhigh]

Do you have the black button type push on kill switch or the red clip on type? With the black button type, pull off the button and push and hold in on the kill switch and see if it starts

Jacob, this guy right here 316jughead (Jerry), is a guru when it comes to the old OMC crossflow motors. Answer his questions and he'll have you back up and running in no time at all. What type of kill switch do you have?

[ChampioNman]

Jacob, this guy right here 316jughead (Jerry), is a guru when it comes to the old OMC crossflow motors. Answer his questions and he'll have you back up and running in no time at all. What type of kill switch do you have?

GT 200 is a looper.

[jakester136]

Yes sir it’s a 1988 200 GT. Has small black push button kill switch. One of the first things I did was pull the safety lanyard off and manually push the button and tried to start it. Do you meant remove the button completely and try to bypass it? Thanks!

[ChampioNman]

Download this manual from CDI it will help you greatly in your troubleshooting.http://www.cdielectronics.com/troubleshootingguide/

[316jughead]

Yes sir it’s a 1988 200 GT. Has small black push button kill switch. One of the first things I did was pull the safety lanyard off and manually push the button and tried to start it. Do you meant remove the button completely and try to bypass it? Thanks!

You did the test I was talking about. Those get worn and sometimes won't hold in the switch. You should get the red clip on lanyard.

[jakester136]

Will do! I take it these are known to have issues

[ChampioNman]

No just part of the troubleshooting process.

[316jughead]

Will do! I take it these are known to have issues

Yes, I have had issues. Some tech's may not have had any problems with that style. I think that's why OMC came out with the red plastic clip, no problems with that one. You can adjust the switch to stick out farther and the button will hold better, maybe this is why some would hold and some would, in time, not.

[316jughead]

To answer your question, yes I have tested timer bases, your OMC service manual will show you how to test the timer base, output and ohms.

[jakester136]

Thanks! The timer base output tests bad according to the CDI manual, it however doesn’t exactly read the same the as the original OMC manual. Good news everything else tests good clearly, so Im going to start there if I can find one. Stator will need replacing before long it was at the bottom end of the specs but still in tolerance

[316jughead]

The trouble with resistance tests they are done in a controlled lab. Air and motor temp at 70 degrees. You will almost always have some difference from the manual.

[jakester136]

Makes sense, I was Mainly measuring for some kind of consistency across the pins and it was all over and not all of them read anything. Replaced timer base, still no spark....very frustrating

[316jughead]

You didn't give us the model number. Do you have two power packs or just the one? Have you tested the stator for voltage output? If that was good did you test the power pack for voltage output? You should unplug all of the ignition connectors and look for corrosion, it builds up over time, clean them all. Make sure the power pack stop circuit is not grounded. The manual will show you how to do that. Did you test all cylinders for spark?