Hose clamps vs Oetiker vs Radius zip tie questions...

[Fishfreq]

I'm sitting here with a bunch of fuel lines to replace and such, and just seeing those Oetiker clamp tools and bands and thinking, 'if they're better, why not use these stainless bands everywhere instead of hose clamps or radius head zip ties'?

Who's got a lot of experience with these Oetiker clamps? Got advice on when to use which type of clamp? I guess I should have one of these tools if I'm rebuilding boats and cars ('68 mustang is next in line for all sorts of attention, new motor, trans, all sorts of lines to clamp).

Here's a tool that looks like it does a sweet job of setting those band clamps with a low profile crimp... Love some feedback from those of you that use these daily.

Screen-Shot-2020-02-21-at-11-17-03-PM.png
$22 IWISS PEX Cinch Clamp Tool on Ama - zon

[Savage]

Oetiker clamps are used on a Mercury motor to replace existing Oetiker clamps.
Radius head zip-ties to replace existing radius head zip-ties on a Mercury motor.

Don't use oetiker clamps where zip-ties where originally used because the inner fitting may not support the clamp.

[Fishfreq]

Oetiker clamps are used on a Mercury motor to replace existing Oetiker clamps.
Radius head zip-ties to replace existing radius head zip-ties on a Mercury motor.

Don't use oetiker clamps where zip-ties where originally used because the inner fitting may not support the clamp.

Makes sense Savage, they haven't failed in 19 years on my motor. I was just thinkin' that maybe in that many years someone would've engineered a better option?

[Gamblinman]

Those are very good clamps, but care should taken to avoid overnighting. Just enough so the hose surface is level with the clamps surface, Hose must be the correct size for the fittings used, do not attempt clamps a loose fitting hose

Good point...using the correct size, it takes just a light tightening to make a perfect seal. I use them on most anything that had, needs, or could use a worm gear clamp.

[krindgen]

I'd go with the Oetiker clamps. Used intentionally compared to those Gambler clamps because there is no threaded fastener required and that eliminates a point of failure. A good, reliable clamp. On a couple engines I've owned they seem to be used in spots where there is little clearance. That nut and bolt can also cut adjacent hoses.

[Fishfreq]

Good point...using the correct size, it takes just a light tightening to make a perfect seal. I use them on most anything that had, needs, or could use a worm gear clamp.

You guys are so right, @lpugh, I'm gonna admit I probably tend to overtighten my clamps, and that's what I liked about those fuel injection clamps Gambler suggested, they've got rolled and very polished edges and inner transition, apparently. I think I'll get a selection and do exactly that, use them where I've used worm gear clamps, that really tear up hoses.

[Fishfreq]

I'd go with the Oetiker clamps. Used intentionally compared to those Gambler clamps because there is no threaded fastener required and that eliminates a point of failure. A good, reliable clamp. On a couple engines I've owned they seem to be used in spots where there is little clearance. That nut and bolt can also cut adjacent hoses.

I agree with you, that there are some places where clearance and or vibration may make Oetiker clamps a wiser choice, so a kit of them should be in my bag of tricks. The question is, what brand/model crimper is a good one, and clamps too? Looking for stainless clamps...

[krindgen]

I agree with you, that there are some places where clearance and or vibration may make Oetiker clamps a wiser choice, so a kit of them should be in my bag of tricks. The question is, what brand/model crimper is a good one, and clamps too? Looking for stainless clamps...

I know I can buy them at my local Homa Dope. But the sizes are different in plumbing compared to marine application.

[EuropeanAM]

DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE CLAMPS FOR THESE PURPOSES.

Any metal clamps need to be STAINLESS. Oetiker Clamps are used for specific hoses that require a full-band, high-tension clamp load, and should always be used in those locations. Note the "full-band" type. There are many "oetiker style" clamps that do not provide a full-band clamp.

Radius-Tie Wraps are used for low pressure connections on many fuel lines and oil lines. They are light- and provide a full-band seal.

There are actually a couple of applications that originally had Radius-head tie wraps, and in later years switched to Oetiker Clamps. Primarily water hoses.


If your post was deleted- either the information was potentially harmful to the OP'ers engine, or you need to review the Announcements (specifically regarding sources that are NOT SUPPORTED in the forums).

[Fishfreq]

DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE CLAMPS FOR THESE PURPOSES.

Any metal clamps need to be STAINLESS. Oetiker Clamps are used for specific hoses that require a full-band, high-tension clamp load, and should always be used in those locations. Note the "full-band" type. There are many "oetiker style" clamps that do not provide a full-band clamp.
Radius-Tie Wraps are used for low pressure connections on many fuel lines and oil lines. They are light- and provide a full-band seal.
There are actually a couple of applications that originally had Radius-head tie wraps, and in later years switched to Oetiker Clamps. Primarily water hoses.

Aaah, I was awaiting Don's interjection ;) !! Lol, my lifetime of working on boats, some salt, many rusted, have made me do that one thing when replacing parts, and that is 'always look for a replacement that's made of stainless steel'. In my book it's an absolute MUST HAVE for hose clamps of any type, but also for hardware and components on vintage cars I've built or worked on. Some hose clamps that say they're stainless aren't fully stainless; their screw is plain steel and rusts up real quick. You can see the zinc tone of the screw-part if you buy it local, but online, you never know what you'll really get.

I see your point about avoiding an 'automotive clamp' Don, the comments removed, and I respect that. Gambler don't take offense. It's clear just based on application that Mercury used Oetiker clamps in places where safety, critical high pressures involved and full-band seal was a requirement, and I would never remove an Oetiker and use a screw clamp there. In all seriousness, us DIY guys need to know that not all 'oetiker style' clamps are created equally.

I've seen many sizes, shapes, and quality levels, some used for residential home plumbing, and some use a very cheap basic tool that makes a crimp that doesn't look very strong at all, and some have a better quality looking compound-action crimping tool that makes a nice low pinch, and seems more rigid or 'pro' looking, I'd say? I was hoping to learn by this post was which tool, exactly, make and model, that can give us the 'full-band' clamp seal you refer to? Is Oetiker the brand name? Are they actual Mercury marine parts? What's the tool we need to set these?

Will this work?
Screen-Shot-2020-02-21-at-11-17-03-PM.png


"Oh, and there was this one time, at band CLAMP.... "

[Savage]

That tool is overkill for any clamp on a Mercury motor.....shorter, smaller pliers are available at the local auto parts store. Mine is from OTC.

[Gamblinman]

Those clamps that I posted and you removed can be found in stainless and are full band clamps. I've been using them for several years with no adverse effects. I respect your knowledge, opinion, and assistance here, but you're dead wrong this time.

[krindgen]

That tool is overkill for any clamp on a Mercury motor.....shorter, smaller pliers are available at the local auto parts store. Mine is from OTC.

A dull pair of end nips would do just fine in skilled hands. If all thumbs, the proper tool isn't a bad thing to eliminate any doubt. I used "one" of the auto type threaded fuel line clamps on a motor I traded four seasons ago and it still creeps into my conscience.

[EuropeanAM]

Oetiker is a brand-name (a vendor that Mercury purchases their clamps through). The same clamps are available through many different suppliers. One of the best things about Oetiker clamps is that they don't tend to loosen up to the point of "leaking" like many "adjustable" clamps do. They're also VERY consistent in the clamp load applied (provided that the crimp applied is, as the instructions show in the kit, or in the Service Manual).

Here's a sample of a NORMAL pair of Oetiker Clamp Pliers:

OetikerPliers.jpg

Those clamps that I posted and you removed can be found in stainless and are full band clamps. I've been using them for several years with no adverse effects. I respect your knowledge, opinion, and assistance here, but you're dead wrong this time.

You're certainly entitled to your opinion on that one... however, the pictures later posted were not stainless. Please understand that "just because you've used them for several years with no adverse effects" does not necessarily mean that they are the correct clamp, and that there will never be any problems from their usage.

Respectfully... if I'm dead wrong, so are the engineers that designed the engines and the manufacturer that built them. Don't take me wrong- I've taken on that uphill challenge a couple of times myself, but even with a TON of evidence and concrete data it's not an easy-sell.

[Gamblinman]

The engineers and manufacturers are forced to look at cost also...they're looking for the most affordable solution that provides a quality product. The Oetiker clamp provides both. Back when my motor was built (2000), fuel injection and its associated parts were in their early stages...they have come a long way since then, and so have the specialty parts for them.

respectfully, and thank you for all you do here.

[Fishfreq]

That tool is overkill for any clamp on a Mercury motor.....shorter, smaller pliers are available at the local auto parts store. Mine is from OTC.

That overkill IWISS pex tool price just dropped to $19 Savage. Is that pretty close to the auto parts store version? I don't have firsthand experience, but it appears these type also press down into the crimp and create the pinch in the middle, and that, I believe, may make the pinch stiffer and lower? If you just use end nips as @krindgen mentioned, the crimp is tall and flexy looking, IMHO.

[Fishfreq]

Those clamps that I posted and you removed can be found in stainless and are full band clamps. I've been using them for several years with no adverse effects. I respect your knowledge, opinion, and assistance here, but you're dead wrong this time.

My Mercury primer bulb has Oetiker clamps holding it to it's barbs, and that's cool, but it comes with two black plastic ratchet band clamps for the 3/8 and 5/16 in/out fuel lines - the ones that you can easily remove by pushing, sliding it's teeth sideways, and those aren't too confidence inspiring. I'd like to use something like what you mentioned, that doesn't bite into the fuel line like a worm gear hose clamp but can't be knocked off while swapping a crank battery in the bilge or something.

[SilverFox579]

A dull pair of end nips would do just fine in skilled hands. If all thumbs, the proper tool isn't a bad thing to eliminate any doubt. I used "one" of the auto type threaded fuel line clamps on a motor I traded four seasons ago and it still creeps into my conscience.

I typed a reply with the exact statement yesterday regarding end nippers and skilled hands, but decided to forego posting it. Thanks for posting yours!!!

[Ranger Rod]

Bombardier has had a few recalls with Oetiker clamps on their snowmobiles and have replaced them with worm gear type clamps.
Just saying .....

[Savage]

$19 OTC Brand...pushes the middle down.