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  1. #1
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    Rewiring my 1996 Skeeter zx180

    So In the picture below is my schematic drawing. All I知 looking for is making sure I知 on the right page on how to connect everything from the fuse block w/ bus bar to the switch panel. I知 replacing my switches with three prong on-off switches and 3 prong on-off-on switches that will have my live well timers connected to them. There will be a master power switch that controls the switch panel, I plan on having it located by the battery. Hopefully you can understand the drawing. I did fail arts class lol.
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  2. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #2
    A couple of quick thoughts on first reading. Your master cutoff needs to be a breaker as well and located within 7” of the positive battery terminal. You can have a separate breaker and switch, but you need both functions.

    You have no provision for an auto bilge. Well worth the effort.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
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  3. Member
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    #3
    Thank you for the info about the breaker and switch. I plan on installing a automatic bilge when I do this. That drawing was just an example to make sure I was on the right track with my connections between the fuse block and switches. I do appreciate the reply and info!

  4. Member
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    #4
    CatFan, do you have any recommendations on that breaker and switch? After searching that out I’m kinda lost on what would be the best system and appropriate amperage. So many options available!

  5. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #5
    I think the Buss 30A MRCB is typical.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  6. Member
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    #6
    Thank You Sir! That helps me a ton!

  7. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #7
    Am I right, you're replacing the fuse block that was already there ?
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
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  8. Member wmitch2's Avatar
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    #8
    You have no provision for an auto bilge. Well worth the effort.[/QUOTE]

    This should be wired POS directly from the Battery with an in-line fuse.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
    G Loomis Rods / Shimano Reels
    Raymarine / MinnKota Ultrex
    Garmin / Live Scope Plus
    Pepper Jigs / Robo Worms
    Troll Bridge / V-T2 Vents


  9. Member
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    #9
    wmitch2, you are correct. I am replacing the original fuse block that came with the boat.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Looks like you are planning a separate anchor light switch and Nav light switch. When not use one switch (DPDT 6post) wired in such a way as to get anchor in one position and both in the other position. That would give you room for another switch if needed. Also, since you don't have the positive wires showing at the switches, I'm assuming you understand the positive usually feeds to the middle terminal and exits through the bottom. There is some circumstances where the reverse is true, but only on custom wiring. On the on/off/on switches for the pumps direct, then on timer, you will need the brown pump wire to go to the center prong. You're power in will connect to one of the outside prongs and the timer power out will connect to the other outside prong. When you turn the timer on, then flipping the switch to auto will connect it to the pump. The other alternative is to use an on/off switch for the live well pump with a separate timer. Wire the the power out of the timer to the outside prong of the on/off switch and main power from the fuse block to the center prong. The top prong, as you show in the drawing, is for ground to run the light. Wire the timer according to the instructions on the side. You'll have a ground, power in, and power out (pump) power in from the fuse block, power out will connect to the pump wire at the switch and ground has it's own connection. Wired this way, when you turn the power on, it will pump continuous. When you turn the power off/pump will quit, turning the timer on, will pump on timer. Either way, the timer and the switch will both activate the same pump wire.
    John
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