I have a 98 Stratos 273, with an 93 Evinrude 115. I plan to repower eventually but the bank account says no right now. I know she won't be winning any boat races but I'm trying to get as much as I can out of her without breaking the bank. Currently have a 15p solas aluminum prop, and getting about 38mph loaded. Wanting to get a stainless prop, but wondering if I should go up a bit in pitch. If anybody has any recommendations I'd much appreciate it.
What's your current rpm with that 15 pitch. If it's within your recommended range then I would be very surprised because 15 pitch is very small for that combo.
As a pure guess I bet what few 273 that had 115 HP came with a 22 pitch Raker. Now if you go looking for a 22 pitch Raker beware they make them in a 13 and 15 spline. The 15 spline fits the 150 HP and larger motors/gear-case and the 13 spline fit the 115 HP and less smaller gear-case. It's kind of easy to find a 22 Raker 15 spline. It takes a little more effort to find a 22 Raker that is 13 spline.
You can always post on the prop forum and ask for advice. There is a couple guys on that forum who know their stuff pretty good.
My tach has been flaking out on me so I'm not 100% sure what the rpms are. Before the tach crapped out I do remember that it was higher than it should be. Disclaimer:I got this boat as basically just a big hunk of fiberglass and have been bringing her back to life, with a 9 month halt in progress for deployment.
A properly working tachometer is a must to determine if a prop is the correct pitch...my suggestion earlier of a 22 pitch Raker (13 spline) is based on what other people have ran with your combo (17 ft bass boat style hull with 115 HP Johnson/Evinrude). Until you have a known good working tachometer its guess work and taking a gamble.
Shakyhead, a rectifier going bad will often cause your tach to act up or die.
2000 Javelin Renegade 20 DC.
Strong men create easy times, Easy times create weak men & weak men create hard times. Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum
In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.
In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings. "Author Unknown"
In 2021 18-40 year old's want to and work to cancel you out if you have a different opinion.
Thanks for the reccomendations guys, I'll see what I can do to get the tach worked out and I'll get back to this post with some numbers.
I have to think that IF you were within rpm limits with a 15" aluminum prop, your motor is more than likely bolted up way too low (you didn't mention if you had a jackplate or not). Probably want to get in the ballpark of 3.5" below pad before making any firm decisions on new prop or you'll be spinnin' your wheels. If you have any buddies that have have 3 or 4 cyl omc, they'll use same 13 spline prop - borrowing for testing is much cheaper than buying when testing trial & error.
I do have a 6" jackplate not sure what p2p is right now, I'll try to check it tomorrow. Unfortunately, since I just moved again, all of the people I've met here are on the yak train, and I haven't found anybody nearby that has props laying around.
Following this one. I have a similar set and need a prop.
Mercury Tempest plus is very close to a raker prop . Tempest Plus 23 0r 22 p ?
Quick update: found my tach issue, had some shorting in the pigtail coming from the control box, so I've ordered a new pigtail, should be in Monday. Also went a head and ordered an 20p raker to start. I'll see where it's at and go from there. Hopefully I can get everything setup and the tach working properly and get on the water sometime next week to see what it's at. Is there anything else I need to order to go from the aluminum solas prop to the raker, hardware wise?
Last edited by shakeyhed; 02-23-2020 at 10:08 PM.
How did the 20p work out?
I have the same bot and motor. I have a 20 and 22 raker, also a 21 gade. I prefer the 20 the the 21. The 20 will run about 5700 on a calm day, the 22 and 21 are right around 5300 to 5500. Any of these props are what you will want. Make sure you get the proper thrust washers!!!
1999 Stratos 273 DC
1999 Johnson 115
2021 Ram Limited
I had a javelin 18, which was a 17'7" hull with a 115. I used a 21 renegade and a 20 raker. The 20 raker would push the boat at 55 gps, but I liked the gade better for how it handled. The 4 blade would run the boat right at 50 gps, which was fine by me.
"It's even, but it ain't settled. Let's settle it." Fast Eddie
I still can't believe they actually won...Cubs Fans Everywhere
Ran it last weekend, picked up a few mph, but I've got a wicked roostertail going on. Gonna drop it down some and try it again. Still trying to figure out the tach, fairly certain at this point I just need to order a new one. When I swapped the props, the washer on the back between the prop and the nut doesn't seem quite right. Is that something I have to swap out with the prop?
It's very possible you have the wrong Trust washer for the Raker. I know a Renagade has a different Trust washer than a Raker.
2000 Javelin Renegade 20 DC.
Strong men create easy times, Easy times create weak men & weak men create hard times. Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Al Maktoum
In 1944 18-20 year old's stormed beaches, and parachuted behind enemy lines to almost certain death.
In 2015 18-20 year old's need safe zones so people don't hurt their feelings. "Author Unknown"
In 2021 18-40 year old's want to and work to cancel you out if you have a different opinion.
Yes the raker has a specific thrust washer. The gade is definitely different. Go on boats.net and find your motor. The washer will be available there.Originally Posted by shakeyhed
1999 Stratos 273 DC
1999 Johnson 115
2021 Ram Limited
Been messing around with motor height with the raker and picker up a little more speed, still having tach issues and about to replace the tach. Anyone know where I can find a decent used tach?
Before you buy another tachometer look at the back of yours. You should see either a dip switch or a selector switch that has a slot for a straight tip screwdriver. There will be numbers you can select. Remember what number yours is set on, then move it around a few times and put it back into the original setting. I have no idea why this fixes some tachometers but I have been told it will sometimes fix them...I am not for sure but I think the numbers represent how many magnetic poles your stator has on your motor and this has something to do with how your tachometer gets its rpm reading. Sometimes the connection is not made all the way so moving it back and forth and setting it back into its original spot will make it reconnect...or at least that is the way I understand it
Contacts get a little corroded and doing that often cleans them up enough to function again.Before you buy another tachometer look at the back of yours. You should see either a dip switch or a selector switch that has a slot for a straight tip screwdriver. There will be numbers you can select. Remember what number yours is set on, then move it around a few times and put it back into the original setting. I have no idea why this fixes some tachometers but I have been told it will sometimes fix them...I am not for sure but I think the numbers represent how many magnetic poles your stator has on your motor and this has something to do with how your tachometer gets its rpm reading. Sometimes the connection is not made all the way so moving it back and forth and setting it back into its original spot will make it reconnect...or at least that is the way I understand it
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