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  1. #1
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    Fixing soft box lids?

    I replaced most of my box lids with new lids from Ranger. This is on a 2000 Ranger 520DVX. One of the remaining box lids is soft and starting to crack. I can certainly get another one from Ranger but does anybody have a cheap fix for this? I am recarpeting my boat so I can work on the lid from both sides if needed.

  2. Member
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    #2
    Which lid is soft? I’m replacing all of mine at the moment. There all in great shape just didn’t want to recarpet 20yr old lids. Would consider selling them . As I said they are in good condition and not soft

  3. Member
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    #3
    I would take the lid off and repair it off the boat. Actually, when I redid my carpet a few years ago, I took all the compartment lids off and installed the carpet, then put small boards on each side of the lips with wood and C claps to let it dry overnight. If the carpet is fitted up loose, it will be a bear to open and close the lids. Back to the repair, they make an epoxy for plastic and it works pretty good. I would get some fiberglass cloth like used with Bondo for car body repairs and put that over the soft area with the plastic epoxy. I'v seen locker lids with a metal stiffener down the middle on the underside (maybe small aluminum angle) , some small bolts and something like Gorilla glue may do the trick.

  4. Member
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    #4
    You can always just sandwhich the door between two .020 aluminum sheets and install some hardware. A good expoxy with aluminum sheets will firm that door up forever.

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    #5
    I did one of my livewell lids. All I did was use a 3/16" piece of aluminum cut to fit the underside of it and drilled a bunch holes for rivets. After i drilled all the rivet holes I used an aviation 2 part epoxy EVA Roberts is the brand but any would do I would think. then put the piece on and riveted it up and 2 yrs later still going strong no problems. This was going to be a temp fix till I recarpeted and bought new lids.
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    #6
    The problem with the lids is that they have a foam sheet between two layers of fiberglass. The foam sheet compressed over time and allows the fiberglass to flex and then crack. I took the carpet off of mine, drilled a few large holes they the top and then put a vaccum on the bottom hole. Stood the lid up and filled fitted a funnel to the top hole and filled the void with 5 minute epoxy. It filled the void and is now like concrete. It has never flexed again. Cost about $20 for the gallon of epoxy resin and only
    used about 1/2 of it. Refitted carpet and looks like new.

  7. Member
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    #7
    I am re carpeting my boat now, actually just finished today. I replaced all my lids after exploring most of the above options. I think the vacuum epoxy trick does sound pretty cool. I had actually talked to a local boat company about making aluminum lids, and decided not to.

    I don’t know what the green foam on my original lids is, it feels like the green foam you use for fake plants, cheapish. The new lids are about .100” thicker than original and the foam is hard when you push on it. The lid itself feels heavier. This was expensive, but I’m glad now I went this route. The only drawback besides cost is when ranger sends the wrong lid, and you wait another 6 weeks to get the correct one. The parts department is pretty awesome though I must say. It’s great that you can still get parts for these old girls.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Billwwar View Post
    I did one of my livewell lids. All I did was use a 3/16" piece of aluminum cut to fit the underside of it and drilled a bunch holes for rivets. After i drilled all the rivet holes I used an aviation 2 part epoxy EVA Roberts is the brand but any would do I would think. then put the piece on and riveted it up and 2 yrs later still going strong no problems. This was going to be a temp fix till I recarpeted and bought new lids.
    Exactly what I did. Worked great. Tackle middle storage, both livewell lids.
    RANGER BOATS

  9. Banned
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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by STRETCH1 View Post
    I replaced most of my box lids with new lids from Ranger. This is on a 2000 Ranger 520DVX. One of the remaining box lids is soft and starting to crack. I can certainly get another one from Ranger but does anybody have a cheap fix for this? I am recarpeting my boat so I can work on the lid from both sides if needed.

    I've got a 2012 Z-118 and had to replace Live-well lid (free) then I had to replace the battery compartment lid (free) Now I have to replace the tackle box (starboard side) for $116.84 so although I am the original owner the boat is out of warranty so out comes the bills.

  10. Member
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by LewStulePH.D. View Post
    I've got a 2012 Z-118 and had to replace Live-well lid (free) then I had to replace the battery compartment lid (free) Now I have to replace the tackle box (starboard side) for $116.84 so although I am the original owner the boat is out of warranty so out comes the bills.
    i got a lifetime warranty on mine since I am the original owner but box lids are not covered.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Billwwar View Post
    I did one of my livewell lids. All I did was use a 3/16" piece of aluminum cut to fit the underside of it and drilled a bunch holes for rivets. After i drilled all the rivet holes I used an aviation 2 part epoxy EVA Roberts is the brand but any would do I would think. then put the piece on and riveted it up and 2 yrs later still going strong no problems. This was going to be a temp fix till I recarpeted and bought new lids.
    exactly what I did. Both livewell kids and my tackle lid. Very strong I weigh 255 and tackle lid is solid.
    RANGER BOATS

  12. Member
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    #12
    Did the same thing for my 2000 520. All new lids . And yes it’s not good when the kids are not right. Had a few hiccups with my order but they made it all good. They’re pretty beefy but need better quality control these days .
    Quote Originally Posted by r83srock View Post
    I am re carpeting my boat now, actually just finished today. I replaced all my lids after exploring most of the above options. I think the vacuum epoxy trick does sound pretty cool. I had actually talked to a local boat company about making aluminum lids, and decided not to.

    I don’t know what the green foam on my original lids is, it feels like the green foam you use for fake plants, cheapish. The new lids are about .100” thicker than original and the foam is hard when you push on it. The lid itself feels heavier. This was expensive, but I’m glad now I went this route. The only drawback besides cost is when ranger sends the wrong lid, and you wait another 6 weeks to get the correct one. The parts department is pretty awesome though I must say. It’s great that you can still get parts for these old girls.

  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Dc41 View Post
    Which lid is soft? I’m replacing all of mine at the moment. There all in great shape just didn’t want to recarpet 20yr old lids. Would consider selling them . As I said they are in good condition and not soft
    Dc41,
    Do you still have the Lids from your Ranger? What year and model do you have? I know this is an old post but my center storage lid on my 1999 518DVX is cracked and Ranger says they don't make them anymore.
    Let me know,
    Dave

  14. Member
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    #14
    I’ve cut and installed 1” aluminum angle under the deck lids. Riveted these down. The rivets did pull the outer layer of fiberglass down so it is slightly dished looking, but they feel really sturdy and mine were and are cracked. I feel the fix will work long term.

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Oprod View Post
    I’ve cut and installed 1” aluminum angle under the deck lids. Riveted these down. The rivets did pull the outer layer of fiberglass down so it is slightly dished looking, but they feel really sturdy and mine were and are cracked. I feel the fix will work long term.
    Did you just put angle in-between the inside area were the seals hit the lid, or notch out from seal to edge? How many rivets did you use? I"m guessing you just drilled the under side of lid through one layer of fiberglass and installed the rivets?
    Thanks for the reply,
    Dave

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Grits and gravy View Post
    The problem with the lids is that they have a foam sheet between two layers of fiberglass. The foam sheet compressed over time and allows the fiberglass to flex and then crack. I took the carpet off of mine, drilled a few large holes they the top and then put a vaccum on the bottom hole. Stood the lid up and filled fitted a funnel to the top hole and filled the void with 5 minute epoxy. It filled the void and is now like concrete. It has never flexed again. Cost about $20 for the gallon of epoxy resin and only
    used about 1/2 of it. Refitted carpet and looks like new.
    How is this holding up? Not exactly sure I understand you’re process. But sounds like this may her the cheapest way to go. Any way you can explain it in a little more soft lid fix for dummies way? Wish there was a YouTube video showing the process. ��

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    #17

  18. Member
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    #18
    So I drilled thru both pieces of fiberglass. Put rivets about 8"apart. Mounted angle under the deck lid...of course. And kept the angle iron away from the rubber weatherstripping trim.

  19. Member
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Parnell View Post
    exactly what I did. Both livewell kids and my tackle lid. Very strong I weigh 255 and tackle lid is solid.
    Trying to figure out how you guys went about pulling vacuum with those large holes drilled. I’d be happy to perform and make the YouTube video for others if someone can get me a little clarity on the process. Need to do all rear lids on a 520.