I have posted on Suzuki forum but want to try here. Just re-powered a 2005 Stratos 201 Pro XL with a brand new 250ss. It came with a 14.5 x29 four blade Suzuki prop. Hole shot is awesome but when I get up on plane and trimming up to increase speed after 3000 rpms, it breaks loose. It’s like it is starting to blowout. Or maybe cavitation. I have to trim down which buries the bow again. Or I’m feathering throttle. Hydraulic jack plate so got to be the prop? Suggestions?
You might have to change the way you drive your boat a little bit. Maybe you need to have max throttle and trim up to increase your rpms. That's how I drive my Bass Cat Puma anyway. Another option is maybe slowly lower your jackplate once you are on plane and while maintaining bow lift. I'd check to see how much of a rooster tail that you are throwing up and ensure that your motor is not too high.
In regards to it being the prop, I'd have it looked at or try a different prop. I have the same 29P Suzuki prop and had zero issues with it blowing out, but I also run it only in the winter and run a 27 or 28P in the warmer months. Some people also run Scorpion props as well with good luck.
Lastly, welcome to our quiet section of BBC since we don't complain too much about our Suzuki's breaking in here.
2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.
Maybe the motor is mounted too high. If you have a jackplate drop it down an inch. Blowing out is sucking air down from the surface. At least that's the way I see it.
I do not recommend a whale tail BUT it sure gave me one hell of a good hole shot.
And we do complain about our Suzy's breaking in here. It doesn't happen too often. I mean, otherwise we might as well own the other black motor and have hundreds more times the breakage. Then we'd have a lot of time to complain because our boats would be in the shop.
My Stratos will blow out if I bring the trim up too fast, at least it used to before I put a tail on it. Now it just shitzengits.
So I was still baffled then realized I did not see trim tab underneath the ventilation plate. Sure enough not one there like on the old VMAX that came off. Do you guys have one on your 250ss?
Most motors that size use hydraulic steering. With hydraulic you don't need that tab but you should have a round flat filler in the space.
Update. Dropped the motor two holes and that has fixed it. Found the sweet spot with trim and hydraulic jack plate once up and running. Thank you for your responses. Now it’s time to figure out prop. Came with 14.5 x 29 four blade and will only turn 5400. Any suggestions? I have a 15.25 x 27 on the old Vmax???
I would recommend a 4 bladed Suzuki 14.5" 27P prop and see if that would maximize your RPMS. Just curious, what was top end speed with the 29P?
Last edited by booter; 02-24-2020 at 01:26 PM.
2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.
5400 definitely not in that motor's power band. You said you got a good hole shot with the 29 but can't get top RPM. Those two symptoms don't usually go together.
May not be getting full throttle. I don't think it's possible to go low enough to get excessive drag from the L/U.
The easiest thing to do would be less pitch except with a 15.25 inch diameter that prop 27 will probably push as much water as the 14.5 inch 29. Bigger diameters have quite an effect on thrust.
Trial and error or consulting with Mark Croxton.
Ask Booter what he's running, he recommended a 27 but didn't specify what pitch and diameter he's running.
I run a Mark Croxton Razor 26 pitch 4 blade. I believe it is 14.5" diameter. You should give him a call. He is a sponsor here on the BBC and you can also google search his name. Make sure he knows you are a member here.
Sam Dunaway
2005 Triton TR-21X
Powered by Suzuki 250SS
I have a 2013 250ss on a 22' pure bay and mine blows out when I just veer right and my water pressure drops to about 3 psi, i turn back to the left and the prop bites and water pressure is back up to about 10 psi. I just changed my water pump this weekend.Originally Posted by thosaus
This is classic sucking air from too high or excess turbulence at the prop IMHO. Remember your boat is probably using a 16 inch prop diameter which puts the tip 1 inch closer to the surface than 14 inch props.
When I switched last year over to the 250SS it took me a bit to re-learn how to drive my boat. I had to run the plate higher than I was used to, to set the back of my boat in the water more. On my setup it would literally lift the back of the boat clean out of the water causing some initial hair raising moments. This also occurred before I switched jack plates from a 6" Detwiler to an 8" Atlas. Once the swap was made I haven't had that happen even when I am pushing it to the limits.
Update on my Zuke, I had my prop reworked and that has fixed the blow out issue. My next issue is my water pressure. @ about 3500 rpm I am @about 5psi with just a bump off full tucked. As I gain speed the pressure drops. I have a 10" jack plate which is bottomed out. I have replaced both thermostats, water pump, and the pressure valve @ the mid-section. My cavitation plate is about 4" higher than the keel of the boat, correct me if I'm wrong but it is 1" up for every 1" off the transom. I haven't it a temp alarm yet but I am concerned about the water pressure. I jut can't figure this out.
Try changing the screens on the lower unit as mentioned in the video below. I believe the part numbers are listed in the video and it starts at the 11:00 minute mark. I ordered these screens and it seemed to lower my temperature by a few degrees.
.
2018 Bass Cat Lynx w/Suzuki 250SS.
From what I see, the water pressure tap is on the dump side of the system and it is not captive. It is kind of unsealed there is no restriction to build pressure against. What does Suzuki recommend?
Heck Yeah Booter. Andy at Team Marine is the one who sold me on Suzuki. He is one of the best techs in the country and I am glad he is my mechanic and Suzuki Dealer
Reply With Quote