New Gelcoat on Full Skeeter Hull

[JimmyTilt]

I picked up a well used 2002 Skeeter ZX225 with heavy oxidation and numerous deep gouges to the fiberglass mat. Gel coat restoration is not an option. The plan is to spray all sides of the hull with New layers of single color gel coat. Can anyone tell me about the makeup of the non gel coat graphics of these hulls? There is significant surface relief associated with them. What are the lessons learned associated with removing these body panels? Other relevant information is also solicited. I am well experienced with fiberglass fabrication, including gel coat. Thanks.

[JohnnyO]

Photos would be nice

Try contacting crank68

[crank68]

I’m a little slow but are you wanting to shoot a solid color gel over flake ? Rojo will be needed on this one

[rojoguio]

I picked up a well used 2002 Skeeter ZX225 with heavy oxidation and numerous deep gouges to the fiberglass mat

All imperfections should be repaired with a polyester resin base material first.

The plan is to spray all sides of the hull with New layers of single color gel coat.

If gelcoating over the existing gel is the plan an inter-coat of Duratec's VE Primer is in order to provide sealing of the substrate, final filling of imperfections and too large grit scratches, and finally due to the tenacity of adhesion provide a "Fresher" finish for the new gel to stick to. If the original finish has areas down to the flake possible print through could take place. Not a disaster but extra sanding-buffing to remove. The VE Primer shuts down any problems that arise along these areas.....

Can anyone tell me about the makeup of the non gel coat graphics of these hulls?

Not sure about this question, I personally have not seen pinstripe tape used on a Skeeter. An explanation supported with pictures is needed here. Also the "Panel" question is not clear. The graphics are usually molded in behind the clear gel in the mold. All some kind of Ester based product.

[Scott S.]

Just put a wrap on it, in the long run it will be cheaper. You will need the proper gun to shoot gel, and with that a pressure pot is the way to go. I use a Binks 2001 with a 2.5 tip, anything under that is to small. I also use the DeVillbiss 2 quart pot, the cost of the pot and gun and hoses is at $600.00, don't buy the cheap crap or you will be fighting it. Now that you have shot it, you have to sand it down, several grits of sand paper and HOURS on sanding, if you didn't shot the gel thick enough you will be shooting more, more time and more acetone for clean up. I would get prices on a wrap first.

[JimmyTilt]

Scott - thanks for thoughtful comments. You are correct that this will be a pain to do. But I just recently retired and have plenty of time and am in need of a winter project here in Virginia. I have all the tools from previous fiberglass fabrication projects, so its "just" the extensive materials costs and my time and time and time.

[JimmyTilt]

John – Thanks for the reply, seriously! I went back and took my first close look atthe hull sides. You are correct, the “bodypanels” are just offsetting colored material placed in relief depressions onthe factory mold. I attached some picsshowing the pitted/oxidized gelcoat and current flake exposed from previous owners’restoration work. The hull surface is amess. I am retired now, and have time totake on this project when the weather warms in a few months. I planon grinding/faring the relief areas to get a smooth sided hull from rub raildown. I will take your suggestion on theprimer. My Contender has an aggressive(sand?) slip resistance walking surface in the gelcoat around the gunnel, and Iwould like to add something like that along the top of the flared in hull/gunnelon the Skeeter. Can you suggest an additiveto mixed in the final gelcoat for that feature?

[rojoguio]

Well no grinding on the side of your boat. They are quite thin in that area. Refinish the same as the top deck. Manufacturers use transverse bulkheads to stabilize the sides of the boats. The side skins on any "Bass Boat" I have pulled the caps on are very thin. A lot have flotation sprayed in the sides to float the boat upright but a by-catch is dampening the flexing if the sides of the hull. You may be able to just press with your hand and see deflection.

My go-to additive for non-skid is made by Sterling Paint, one quart lasts a lifetime. Please note - if you have any filters in your paint system they must be removed before spraying this stuff. The old description is that it is glass spheres, I love it because the texture is round, it wipes clean like magic. In Gelcoat I add to my final coats with the Duratec High Gloss additive but with 2K Urethane I spray a coat of paint over the coat of non-skid to make it easy to clean plus provide millage over the spheres. I'm including a link to a web page I found it for sale. I have been using out of the can for 5 years and it has many jobs left.

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sterling-paint-non-skid-additive

Sterling Course NonSkid.jpg

[paulrodbender]

I thought Fisheries Supply sounded familiar, was a customer of mine on the west coast.