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  1. #1
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    Hydraulic Plates and BCB opinion

    Hydraulic plates became popular with the 2 stroke Mercury with boat gaining equipment and weight, as they have less torque. Power Poles, especially Talons, dual graphs, larger trolling motors and carrying more tackle impact hole shot. The ability to lift the engine improve propeller venting and reduces hole shot times. Then in some cases it allows use of the propeller which minimizes top end performance.

    It allows quick maximization of performance, ability to adjust the ride on rough water and can give the user a positive experience. That is If the user understands how to use it properly.

    Caution, as hydraulic plates also can make a driver worse as most everyone we know runs their plates too high, with a hot foot this creates a challenge and can be a serious handling issue when the user backs off instantly in rough water, approaching wakes and etc. They reduce steering control as they instantly drop the nose when approaching, instinctively removing the foot from the accelerator as in a car, this allows the bow to drop.

    When the bow drops under fast deceleration, the skeg is the Rudder and it is now removed more from contact at the higher engine heights. The rudder is the skeg and dropping the bow first can pull the Gearcase up around 3 to 6 inches, when you most need it for control.

    It is imperative that a user always trim down first when approaching a wake or vessel, thus increasing the skegs water contact and gaining critical control. Trim and lower the plate, then reduce throttle speeds.

    Almost every user of a hydraulic plate raises them to excess heights and as a result they have increased steering torque caused by surfacing propeller blade. Varying hulls and overall weights, vary the degree of impact that engine height has on control at all levels when the engine is over raised.

    A SIMPLE way to know if your engine is TOO HIGH is the steering feedback pulling excessively to the right. If that is the case when your running top end, then your engine is likely too high. This is the indicator on most all hulls that your slipping and not efficient also. Various propellers also change the slippage and thus the engine heights must be reset to match your propellers connection and efficiency.

    A hydraulic jack plate can make setup and performance much better, though it also can make an untrained driver a recipe for disaster. They also increase service cost down line as things will break from pumps to wiring and senders. Further, a HEIGHT GAUGE is critical for gaining an understanding of control. We ONLY sell plates with gauges on our products. In opposition most do not sell them with gauges and everyone should have a gauge or a setting control limiting system (ProTap) for increased understanding of settings. It is more critical by far than a trim gauge.

    We sell a significant percentage of our products with hydraulic plates today and we have for almost 20 years. The ratio has definitely increased and with all of the four stroke motors and torque today many no longer have the need for them. It’s a personal preference and we are well over 50% on Premium series lineup, probably more like 75-80% on big boats over 225 HP.

    If you fish mostly one area, many have no need for one.

    BCB
    Last edited by Bass Cat Boats; 01-14-2020 at 09:15 AM.

  2. Member
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    #2
    Good read. Thanks.
    I had a hydraulic plate on my first Cat, and, once I found the sweet spot, I never adjusted it again. LOL. Needless to say, my last three Cats have had manual plates. I understand that for some they may be beneficial, but, not for me. Besides which, it is something else that can break.
    2019 BCB Classic
    Merc V8 200 4S

  3. Member
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    #3
    Not to mention you can raise the engine too high for proper cooling when running.

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    #4
    Hydraulic J/P's are good for when you try different props...ie 3 blade Fury likes to be run lower than Bravo XS, idle in skinny water, rough water, shallow water take off. Other than that find the spot it best runs at and leave it.

  5. Member
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    #5
    I believe one of the most important points made is for first time BCB or performance boat owners. The hydraulic JP is truly a disasters waiting to happen. It complicates the learning curve and sometimes leads the new owner to believe the boat has an issue, when the problem is the driver.

    I see many posts on the Facebook BCB owners group stating their boat chines and are trying to adjust the JP to stop it. Another one is changing props to stop it.
    I can express the importance of many on the FB group needing to get on these forums and do some searching in the FAQ section before hammering down the throttle.
    Just my opinion.
    2016 BassCat Pantera II
    Mercury 200 ProXs

  6. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #6
    Great post Cajunhunter67!

    The forums have an archive, and Facebook is new information every day.

    Frustrates us with the armchair experts.

    BCB

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    #7
    This is simply a general problem. I can't count the number of times I see something like "my motor is missing when I gun it from a dead stop." You see suggestions from change the plugs, replace the tracker valve, clean the compressor screen, replace the faulty fan belt, replace the fuel lines, put a saddle on the goat, close the back door of the barn, etc. I've worked on auto and boat motors for a LONG time. Damned if I can diagnose a problem like that remotely. Easiest fix would be to just replace the entire motor, or at least the powerhead. At least that would fix the problem, if it doesn't break the pocket book first.

    As far as chine-walking goes, way too many believe it is purely a boat adjustment problem. Change the prop, change the engine height, change the balance of the boat side to side and fore to aft, you-name-it. The actual solution is "learn to drive a high-performance hull." I have yet to find a boat I could not drive, no matter how badly it was set up. I can trim my classic way too far, to the point that it becomes "interesting" to drive, yet I can run it up the river all day. So lots of arm-chair quarterbacks, most of which are only repeating what they heard from a friend who heard it from someone at the ramp...

    There are people that are smart and experienced. There are some that could not find their butts with a double-handful of fish hooks. If you are talking to someone and they have a bucket or two of fish hooks in their boat, do NOT listen to 'em. :)
    2008 Bass Cat Pantera Classic
    2014 Mercury Pro XS 200

  8. Member
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    #8
    I 100% agree with this. Hydraulic jackplate are on more and more boats these days (mine as well) a lot of people don’t need them. They can be very dangerous. I have seen people mix up the jp and trim and have a boat get out of control. Or people out there trying to run WO within a few hours of driving a boat. I think they are very useful especially when setting up a boat/prop combo. I hope everyone out there is carful when using it and don’t try to raise your motor up to high.

  9. Moderator Luke's Avatar
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    #9
    I 100% agree with what OldTimer said also
    I am a member on the Facebook page and I have seen the exact thing on there about people talking about the Chinewalk and how to stop it and everyone seems to think its an easy fix by swapping out parts. I have also went on there quite a few times trying to type out a bit of info on how to learn it but the best way is to go out and drive the thing.....and learn.
    I'm really a novice when it comes to Hydraulic jackplates I will say that as I have never had one. Now that I am getting to the point where I just about have my boat where I want it as far as setup on the boat itself but I have added quite a bit of weight to it already going from a 24v TM system to a 36v, adding the Garmin Force, then here in the next couple of months plan on putting a pair of power poles on it I might have to go to a Hydraulic jackplate just to keep my holeshot close to where it was.
    I will say I'm not a huge speed demon any more though either. I very rarely run mine at WOT anymore for any real length of time...mainly cause I think I can watch the fuel gauge start to drop cause the old EFI really likes the gas. but I would like to keep my holeshot so I might have to do some experimenting when I get the power poles on and might drop down to a 4 blade prop also. just have to see. Hopefully when that time gets here ill have some great people here to work it out with.

  10. Member
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    #10
    My take is experience counts. I wouldn't have a boat without a hydraulic jackplate. Motor height plays a different role in conditions and needs.
    As far as chine walk, the biggest culprit is left to right balance. Put a level across the deck and adjust weight until it is level, for how you normally fish. When level, it is far easier to learn to drive the chine walk, and easier to drive period.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats View Post
    Hydraulic plates became popular with the 2 stroke Mercury with boat gaining equipment and weight, as they have less torque. Power Poles, especially Talons, dual graphs, larger trolling motors and carrying more tackle impact hole shot. The ability to lift the engine improve propeller venting and reduces hole shot times. Then in some cases it allows use of the propeller which minimizes top end performance.

    It allows quick maximization of performance, ability to adjust the ride on rough water and can give the user a positive experience. That is If the user understands how to use it properly.

    Caution, as hydraulic plates also can make a driver worse as most everyone we know runs their plates too high, with a hot foot this creates a challenge and can be a serious handling issue when the user backs off instantly in rough water, approaching wakes and etc. They reduce steering control as they instantly drop the nose when approaching, instinctively removing the foot from the accelerator as in a car, this allows the bow to drop.

    When the bow drops under fast deceleration, the skeg is the Rudder and it is now removed more from contact at the higher engine heights. The rudder is the skeg and dropping the bow first can pull the Gearcase up around 3 to 6 inches, when you most need it for control.

    It is imperative that a user always trim down first when approaching a wake or vessel, thus increasing the skegs water contact and gaining critical control. Trim and lower the plate, then reduce throttle speeds.

    Almost every user of a hydraulic plate raises them to excess heights and as a result they have increased steering torque caused by surfacing propeller blade. Varying hulls and overall weights, vary the degree of impact that engine height has on control at all levels when the engine is over raised.

    A SIMPLE way to know if your engine is TOO HIGH is the steering feedback pulling excessively to the right. If that is the case when your running top end, then your engine is likely too high. This is the indicator on most all hulls that your slipping and not efficient also. Various propellers also change the slippage and thus the engine heights must be reset to match your propellers connection and efficiency.

    A hydraulic jack plate can make setup and performance much better, though it also can make an untrained driver a recipe for disaster. They also increase service cost down line as things will break from pumps to wiring and senders. Further, a HEIGHT GAUGE is critical for gaining an understanding of control. We ONLY sell plates with gauges on our products. In opposition most do not sell them with gauges and everyone should have a gauge or a setting control limiting system (ProTap) for increased understanding of settings. It is more critical by far than a trim gauge.

    We sell a significant percentage of our products with hydraulic plates today and we have for almost 20 years. The ratio has definitely increased and with all of the four stroke motors and torque today many no longer have the need for them. It’s a personal preference and we are well over 50% on Premium series lineup, probably more like 75-80% on big boats over 225 HP.

    If you fish mostly one area, many have no need for one.

    BCB

    This is some good information. My 2016 Caracal came with an atlas hydraulic plate but no gauge... Currently have to keep looking back to see where the plate is. The gauge must have been forgotten? Will you send me a gauge or have my local dealer install the gauge?

  12. BBC SPONSOR Bass Cat Boats's Avatar
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    #12
    BCB only stocks and sells plates with gauges. If the dealership did the install then it’s likely they didn’t get a gauge model as most don’t. The plate would require a sending unit also to function the gauge. Because we don’t stock the plates without gauges, we don’t stock the gauges and sending units. These are installed with the plate at production and we have no Individual parts.

  13. Member Louie's Avatar
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    #13
    Bass Cat boats... do you also think that the amount of slung blades in more recent years could be attributed to all these guys running plates too high?
    "the head, the tail, the whole damn thing"

  14. Member Louie's Avatar
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by catdude28 View Post
    Good read. Thanks.
    I had a hydraulic plate on my first Cat, and, once I found the sweet spot, I never adjusted it again. LOL. Needless to say, my last three Cats have had manual plates. I understand that for some they may be beneficial, but, not for me. Besides which, it is something else that can break.
    Atlas plate I had killed two sets of relay packs. Went to a manual plate on the new boat and more simple electronics all the way around. On top of never wanting issues on the water... I also dont want the extra expenses on down the road.
    "the head, the tail, the whole damn thing"

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    #15
    I mainly use my Atlas to help with hole shot. I raise it up when I have a load and drop it down when running.

  16. Member 06 SB's Avatar
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    #16
    Great post! The first time I ran a Hyd plate was when I bought my Cougar. It added a whole other dimension to driving the boat. I was not new to JPs or even stopping the boat from chine walking. You would think it is only adding one more variable but it is so much more than that! I equate it to going from driving a car (speed and direction) to flying an airplane (speed, direction and altitude). The third element complicates the whole situation. It was a learning curve for me and was struggling a little. I got some advice to just put it on 4 or 5 and learn the boat first then play with the JP height. That worked well for me.

    I liked having the hyd plate with all the different lakes I fish. One day it would be a deep, clear lake (Lanier) and the next day it would be a shallow, stump-filled mess (Weiss, Eufaula). Being able to move the entire motor depending on the conditions was awesome.
    Last edited by 06 SB; 01-17-2020 at 07:23 AM.

    USN Retired
    2020 Basscat Caracal
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  17. Member Finlander's Avatar
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    #17
    Back in the day the hydraulic plates came before hydraulic steering and many of us used the plates to locate the negative steering sweet spot. As motors become stronger and the boats became faster higher motor heights became necessary to optimize speed and handling which brought back the torque. This paved the way for hydraulic steering and by the early 2000's a Sea Star had become standard equipment on v6 powered rigs. It seemed hydraulic steering replaced the need for a hyd. plate for many years but I think the plate does more for dialing in a boat.
    2012 Ranger Z519 Comanche - Merc. 225 Pro XS - 24 Razor 4 XL/25 Tempest Plus

  18. Member
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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats View Post
    Great post Cajunhunter67!

    The forums have an archive, and Facebook is new information every day.

    Frustrates us with the armchair experts.

    BCB
    2016 Triton 20TRX
    250 Pro XS, #112 MK Ultrex
    PP Blades, Atlas JP, Ionic Lithiums (4)
    Garmin 126/126/1222 & Solix 15


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    #19
    Great post....biggest value imho is holeshot in some of our shallow weedy lakes....

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    #20
    If you fish one type of water you may never find the use for one but for me I fish from the upper Mississippi where it helps to be able to raise your motor to Lake Michigan where you want your motor low. After having them on my last 3 boats I wouldn't be without one. Totally agree that you have to know how to use one just like you need to learn to drive any boat over 60 jackplate or not. Also agree that a gauge is a must.