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  1. #1
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    Another Wheel Bearing and Grease Question

    At present I have been using Lucas Red N Tacky grease. Mostly because that is what the boat dealership used when they replaced the bearings.
    I re lube about every 6 months. I have Super Lube Spindles. The Red N Tacky turns to what looks like a thin Strawberry Milk Shake in that time period. I haven't had a bearing failure; but not sure I am happy with what I see.
    There are not many places that sell marine grease in my area; other that the green grease and I can buy Mystik JT6 at Academy Sports.
    So; I am thinking of going to the Mystik; although the Mystik is not a lithium base product. I here good things about the Mystik. First question: is this a good Idea? I know I would have to flush the bearings or replace. 2nd question: when filling do you leave the cap empty or partly full? I always leave the cap about a 1/4 to a 1/3 full and leave an air gap. Thanks

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    #2
    I had several greases tested and best that came back was Valvoline Cerulean Grease......
    Ron Fears
    Stroker/300XS
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  3. Member
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    #3
    Available @ Napa
    Ron Fears
    Stroker/300XS
    1E003823

  4. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #4
    The only advantage of a marine grease is that the base is resistant to washout if water gets inside the hub. If your grease is getting wet, you may need to address the cause of that.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  5. Member
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    #5
    Sounds like water is getting in your hubs, somehow.

  6. Member
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    #6
    Call Waymire's 317.631.7551
    Trailer parts- they can tell u if u have the correct parts.

  7. Member TritonTRXV8's Avatar
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    #7
    I had the same thing with the red and tacky. Good grease but this isnt its strong suit. The lucas marine grease is awesome. Switched to that in the old boat and it hardly even discolored. Very good product highly recommend it.
    Roy
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  8. Member
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    #8
    Thanks everyone. I am pushing small amounts of water out of the hubs when pumping in the new grease.
    The back seals seem to be fine; it would make me think water is coming in around the metal caps and rubber plug?
    I'll try Waymire's or look to see if I can find a good dealership. The one I bought my boat from has made to many changes in the last two years, and I've had some other problems with them. Not that I can't do the job myself; but sometimes you need another set of eyes when you find a problem.

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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    Thanks everyone. I am pushing small amounts of water out of the hubs when pumping in the new grease.
    The back seals seem to be fine; it would make me think water is coming in around the metal caps and rubber plug?
    I'll try Waymire's or look to see if I can find a good dealership. The one I bought my boat from has made to many changes in the last two years, and I've had some other problems with them. Not that I can't do the job myself; but sometimes you need another set of eyes when you find a problem.
    It is hard very hard not to have small amount of water in most hubs. You counter that with best grease when wet. There are 3 or 4 good marine greases. I like Lucus blue.
    That is what comes in 100,000 mile vault hubs. I don't recommend 100,000 miles. I repack every other year. If you pull a lot I suggest every year. Been doing this and learning for 50+ years.....this works for me.

  10. Electrical/Wiring/Trolling Motors Moderator CatFan's Avatar
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    Thanks everyone. I am pushing small amounts of water out of the hubs when pumping in the new grease.
    The back seals seem to be fine; it would make me think water is coming in around the metal caps and rubber plug?
    I'll try Waymire's or look to see if I can find a good dealership. The one I bought my boat from has made to many changes in the last two years, and I've had some other problems with them. Not that I can't do the job myself; but sometimes you need another set of eyes when you find a problem.
    Super Lube spindles aren’t sealed like others. Water will get in, but as you’ve seen is pushed out when new grease is added. I’d think a marine grease would be the best choice, though some greases that aren’t marketed as marine greases may have the same function.
    If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
    nothing else matters.​

  11. HYDRA SPORT LS205 225HO JER-1 BIG BASS's Avatar
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    #11
    1999 trailer repack once every spring before long haul to Erie. Lucas red and tacky for many years no problems at all.
    replace rear seals about every 2 or 3 years, I have a press so they usually don’t get damaged pressing out.

  12. Member
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    #12
    One thing that helps is to put grease in the rubber cap groove when inserting it onto the cap. I have recently installed one of these on my trailer, wanted to se how well it worked before doing all four hubs. They are supposed to make the hub airtight and thus water tight with positive air pressure. With the little use I have put it through it’s working well.
    Check them out https://airtighthubs.com/products/index/9
    They have gotten good reviews and they have good videos on installing them.
    Mercury 2002 200hp Carbed Saltwater
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  13. Member
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by leonreno View Post
    One thing that helps is to put grease in the rubber cap groove when inserting it onto the cap. I have recently installed one of these on my trailer, wanted to se how well it worked before doing all four hubs. They are supposed to make the hub airtight and thus water tight with positive air pressure. With the little use I have put it through it’s working well.
    Check them out https://airtighthubs.com/products/index/9
    They have gotten good reviews and they have good videos on installing them.
    Thanks,
    I am going to look into buying these.

  14. Member
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    #14
    I have use Kendall Super Blue I never had a bearing failure in 25 years I do think from what you said you have water coming some where .

  15. Member
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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by leonreno View Post
    One thing that helps is to put grease in the rubber cap groove when inserting it onto the cap. I have recently installed one of these on my trailer, wanted to se how well it worked before doing all four hubs. They are supposed to make the hub airtight and thus water tight with positive air pressure. With the little use I have put it through it’s working well.
    Check them out https://airtighthubs.com/products/index/9
    They have gotten good reviews and they have good videos on installing them.
    Very interesting. I wonder if just the cap would work with a normal double lipped oil seal, or if you would NEED to replace the back seal.

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    #16
    I used to use bearing buddies but went with the simple metal caps. They're cheap and too often I have heard of bearing buddies falling off.

  17. Member
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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by lmoore View Post
    Very interesting. I wonder if just the cap would work with a normal double lipped oil seal, or if you would NEED to replace the back seal.
    That would be a question I would have too, but when installing mine I’m not sure a wear sleeve would be air tight without the sealant. However there is a note in the installation that certain UFP axles may already have sealed sleeves.
    Mercury 2002 200hp Carbed Saltwater
    OT566776
    2002 Cape Horn 22' Bay