1992 201DC bilge ?

[WayneM1946]

I am replacing both my trolling motor batteries. I thought while they were out, I would pull the battery tray/shelf out and check the to see how the transducer is mounted in the bilge because I am having a problem with the Humminbird Helix 9 losing the bottom.

Based on how it looks with the trolling batteries out, I will also have to pull the cranking battery, the battery charger and the oil tank to get the battery tray out. Is that correct.

If so, it is a bigger PITA than I was expecting. Wouldn't be so bad if I was sure I could fix the problem, but I am not sure I am going to be able to identify a problem with the transducer even if I do go to all this trouble. I guess I could just knock it off and replace it with a new one. That might be better than having to do all this over again.

Wayne

[ChampioNman]

That's where it is if it isn't external. Yep you'll have to pull all of that stuff out to get to the bilge. That's why we call it bilge diving. Not a fun task. When TXChamp had his 201 he came up with a brilliant idea, to pull off the lid for the battery compartment so you can lean across the back deck and work down there. Sure beats leaning over the gunwale.

[WayneM1946]

Yep, that's what I thought. I will pull the lid if I decide to go ahead with the transducer inspection.

Wayne

[WayneM1946]

Today, I removed the bilge cover for access and went bilge diving. I have a Helix 9 Sonar/GPS only that was new in May last year that was put on the boat just before I bought it. It has never worked right. Depth just comes and goes and has always worked better on plane that when fishing, making it pretty useless.

When I got into the bilge, it appeared the transducer had very little adhesive around it which sorta made me suspect an installation problem. I gave it one reasonably light wrap with a ball peen hammer and it popped off. Bottom of transducer came out completely clean. Adhesive in floor of bilge was very thin but I could see no visible air pockets.

Is it normal for them to pop off like that if they are installed properly?

What should I use to install the new transducer. I know that Humminbird supplies a small packet of epoxy of some sort, but there sure isn't very much of it, and I have read on here somewhere to make a small dam out of duct tape, fill it with epoxy, then push and turn the transducer into it and then weight it down for 24/48 hours while the stuff sets. There sure is not enough in the Humminbird packet to do that.

I cleaned and smoothed the floor of the bilge with a roloc disc in preparation for a new transducer.

I am going to replace the transducer with the upgraded version XP 9 HW T and then replace the head unit with a side image Helix 9 or 10

Thanks,

Wayne

[ChampioNman]

I use two part epoxy when I install them in the bilge, but I make a dam with plumber's putty does a better job than duct tape. Yep that's how you free them up a good whack with a ball peen or dead blow usually gets them to pop. Clean the area with mineral spirits, no Acetone down there. Good luck.

[WayneM1946]

How thick should the layer of epoxy under the transducer be?

Wayne

[Tx Champ]

As thin as possible. You want a solid physical joint between the xdcr and the hull. I would scuff the surface of the xdcr with some Scotch Brite, just to take the gloss off.

[WayneM1946]

Got it, thank you!

I have never gotten a consistent reading using the transducer I just knocked off. I am hoping the new transducer will fix that problem, If it does not, I could have a problem with the head unit or even possibly the wiring. I plan on upgrading the head unit to a SI and move the 2D that I have now to the bow and use the transducer built into the trolling motor.

Wayne

[Tx Champ]

Don't use a 5 min epoxy as you want to avoid any bubbles between the xdcr and hull. Heat in the curing process can equal bubbles. You can use sand or shot bags to hold it in place until the epoxy cures.

[WayneM1946]

When I got into the bilge area, I knocked the old transducer off. It was not adhered very well, One light rap and it popped off. It appears that there at one time was another transducer mounted toward the bow of the boat and it appears that it had been cut or ground out and left a transducer shaped hump probably 3/8" high of what looks like epoxy or maybe even the base of a previous transducer that has been broken out. I started to grind it out but decided it was not hurting anything, so I left it there.

However, at the very back of the bilge between the transducer I removed and the transom, there is a spot about the size of a quarter or maybe a little bigger that has raw fiberglass fibers showing. It is not soft at all but may not be sealed. It kinda looks as if it was gouged with something, maybe during the removal of a previous transducer. There is even a circular imprint around it which suggests that maybe there was another transducer there at one time.

What should I do with the raw fiberglass. Should I use fiberglass resin or will epoxy seal that? If I use fiberglass resin, should I also put a layer or two of fiberglass cloth in there?

Wayne

[Tx Champ]

Polyester resin. You might work some glass mat into the gouge.

[WayneM1946]

Thank You.

Wayne