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  1. #1
    Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    250 e-Tech tilt/ trim issue (built 12/2010)

    This 250 e-Tech has been a great motor despite a minimum of service maintenance. About four years ago after the dealer replaced the lower unit and water pump the trim sensor lever arm was found to be broken and I still need to replace it. Then about 1-1/2 years ago the motor would only trim up but not down, I believe. The trim relay was replaced with a new relay but that did not fix the issue. I watched a YouTube video and 'jumpered' a connector on the port side of the engine with a small piece of wire bent in the shape of a staple (n) -for an upper limit switch and all worked well until now.

    After fishing a tournament the Sunday before last, the tilt/ trim completely stopped working as the boat was loaded on the trailer. With the help of a couple buddies we opened the 'manual release valve' on the left (port) side of the engine mounting bracket with a flat bladed screw driver. (It would be a good idea to know where this poorly marked valve is located in case this happens to you!)

    When I got back to the garage, I replaced the trim relay with the "good" one I removed about 1-1/2 years ago. Unfortunately nothing happens but a 'click' at the relay when pushing any of the three different trim switches. Using directions in the factory service manual, both trim relays tested good but the trim motor does not run or even hum.

    The manual says to:
    1.) make sure the Manual Release Valve is closed, it is.
    2.) replace the Manual Release Valve (is the valve likely the problem if the pump doesn't run?)
    3.) perform tilt trim relay test (both relays I have tested 'good' ie. 12 Volts on wires A & B when 12V's were applied to terminal wires 1 & 2)
    4.) remove trim motor and check drive (the motor does not even run)
    5.) install a new pump manifold assembly (Yikes!)

    Wouldn't it be a good ideal to perform the 'electrical circuit test' on the trim motor; I suspect the motor may have gone bad, can you confirm this with an ammeter test (p 372) or a volt meter? I suspect a new pump manifold assembly is expensive; a pump could probably be replaced for much less.

    Happy New Year,
    Mark
    Last edited by IRONBLOCK; 12-31-2019 at 04:09 PM.

  2. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #2
    What manual are you using? Doesn't sound like it is a Factory manual. Have you disconnected the trim motor connector and applied 12VDC to the trim motor side to see if the motor runs or not? Make up two jumper wires and connect one lead to 12V, apply that to the blue wire on the trim motor harness and the ground wire to the green wire in the harness. The motor should go up, reverse the jumpers the motor should go down. If not then replace the trim motor. Have you checked the trim from all trim stations?

  3. Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by ChampioNman View Post
    What manual are you using? Doesn't sound like it is a Factory manual. Have you disconnected the trim motor connector and applied 12VDC to the trim motor side to see if the motor runs or not? Make up two jumper wires and connect one lead to 12V, apply that to the blue wire on the trim motor harness and the ground wire to the green wire in the harness. The motor should go up, reverse the jumpers the motor should go down. If not then replace the trim motor. Have you checked the trim from all trim stations?
    Thank you for your quick reply ChampioNman! I thought you'd ask for the serial number so I shot a picture of it when in the boat storage.
    Evinrude SN.jpgEvinrude Manual.jpg

    Yes, factory manual and yes I tried all three trim switches (motor, bow and throttle) and both relays that I have and just get a click.


    I have jumper wires and what you suggested totally makes sense -why didn't I think to do that or see that anywhere in the factory manual? There is not much room under the cowl to get to connectors and they are not easily removed as they run through the mounting bracket, etc. but then I am sure you know that. Manual does show how to remove the connectors, etc. Will probably need to order a pump but can replace the trim sending unit at the same time.

    Would you know where the tilt up limit switch is located? I suspect that needs to be replaced as well, since I had to jumper the connector with a wire.

  4. SC Club Moderator ChampioNman's Avatar
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    #4
    Trim limit switch is on the tilt tube about dead center above the steering arm.

  5. Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    #5
    Thank you kindly! Sad to have missed the Hang Over Classic but it will be nice to have these items fixed.

    Mark

  6. Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    #6
    "Make up two jumper wires and connect one lead to 12V, apply that to the blue wire on the trim motor harness and the ground wire to the green wire in the harness. The motor should go up, reverse the jumpers the motor should go down. If not then replace the trim motor. "

    The motor did not budge either way. It looks like time to replace the motor, trim sending unit and limit switch.

    Thanks,

    Mark
    Last edited by IRONBLOCK; 01-14-2020 at 03:38 PM.

  7. Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    #7
    The good news is that the trim and tilt work with the new trim motor ($225) installed. The new trim sending unit ($130) works as well but after four years without a trim indicator, I still find myself looking back to see the engine position; I guess that eventually the gauge will become the first thing to check.

    Well the 'bad news' is...after replacing the tilt limit switch, I ran the motor up to full tilt and it kept going until I released the 'up' button. I suspect this may be the reason the trim motor went out in the first place. With the boat tied up to the dock, wind blew the boat around and the lower unit contacted the hard bottom. I pushed the 'up' trim button to get the lower unit just off the bottom. When I released the button the motor continued to trim up like it was possessed -until it finally stopped on its own. Both, old and new trim limit switches tested good. The one on the boat probably just needed to be readjusted...it is possible that the broken trailering bracket contributed to this problem; it has been replaced as well.

    Tired and overly hungry, I screwed around with the 'trim adjuster' mechanism until the inner part of it came half way apart. Had I taken the time to actually think about the issue, I could have just trimmed the motor back down, over the adjuster stop and adjusted the tilt limit switch so it contacted the adjuster. It looks like a real pain to remove and replace the tilt limit adjuster. (photo may be before I pulled the ratchet mechanism half way out)

    Trim limit adjuster.jpg

    When the lower cowling was off, I found the reason why the water pressure gauge quit working after the lower unit was replaced. Looks like the pitot tube was pinched between the cowling halves...

    Pitot tube.jpg

    I'm glad those 'mechanics' won't be working on this boat anymore.
    Mark
    Last edited by IRONBLOCK; 07-04-2020 at 07:21 AM.

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    #8
    Bypasse the trim limit I believe with a wire to complete the the circuit

  9. Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    #9
    Yes the trim limit switch has been bypassed with a copper wire, again...it works but I believe this 'bypass' may have contributed to the trim motor going out. I'd like to have this item properly fixed.

    Mark

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    #10
    I replaced mine after 9 years I am having issues also in the limit switch mine is intermittent drives me crazy

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    #11
    I did have to replace the trim sending unit solenoid pack also it would trim on its own was super fun

  12. Member IRONBLOCK's Avatar
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    #12
    The water pressure 'tell-tale' (pee stream) on the motor just stopped while I was fishing a tournament. The water pump was six years old so I suspected that it had finally gone bad. The engine never gave an overheat indicaton or had any issue so I did what any tournament addict would do and kept fishing. I may have fished a tournament or two before finally deciding to replace the water pump...that job is a real PITA! I followed the instructions here in the Evinrude forum, a Youtube video and the factory manual but really struggled to get the lower unit back on the engine. The Evinrude OEM waterpump kit did not include a few parts that the factory shop manual says should be replaced. Mainly the water pump tube to the mid-section with two o-rings on each end and the shift lever seal. I got the impression that these parts are not usually changed when I tried to buy them at the local marine repair shop, although I was able to find a new shift lever seal -they had just one in stock. The old water pump tube refused to fit into the bracket or stand pipe on the new water pump. With the help of a buddy we realized this and used the bracket from the old water pump. This is definitely a two man job.

    Anyway, after changing the complete water pump, a two hour job, that only took 11 hours -the water barely sprayed from the 'tell-tale'. Floating in the middle of a cove, while laying on top of the motor, I removed the 'tell-tale' with a pair of needle nose pliers (only tool in the boat) and found tiny rocks had plugged up the nozzle. If your boat motors indicator stream is very weak, you might remove the nozzle and make sure it is clean inside. I hope this helps someone. The old water pump would probably have worked for another few years but it is new now; no worries.

    Mark
    Last edited by IRONBLOCK; 07-04-2020 at 07:27 AM.

  13. Sprint Boats Moderator Bassmeister's Avatar
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    #13
    In clear water I never run a water pump more than 3 years.....flushing the engine with the "pisser" removed is always a good idea....when doing maint.