Aftermarket oils that approximate Mercury DFI oil?

[Jtreed99]

I don’t have any answers for you but would like to provide another viewpoint. There may a best “racing” oil that’s not necessarily the best “fishing” oil. What if there is an oil that has marginal gain in film thickness and shear strength and offers slightly better protection at 6000 rpm, provides negligible benefit at 4500-5000 rpm, but at 600-1200 rpm where you spend hours side imaging it cokes the piston tops so badly that on the next 6000 rpm run you burn a piston out from detonation instead of lack of lubrication?

[EuropeanAM]

How come I never hear anyone talking about this Mercury racing oil (aka Rejuvenate?), for Optimax or premix cocktail oil? What's the story on this?

My local dealer sells bulk oils out of 55 gal drums, and carries Premimum Plus, DFI oil, and Yamaha two stroke oils, so never even thought of trying Mercury Racing 2 stroke oil...

Mercury Racing oil link

Is this ancient oil, no longer made?

Not ancient- actually been on the market commercially for less time than the Optimax/DFI oils. It is definitely EXPENSIVE, but it's also one of the cleanest oils I've seen during my career. I have several customers that run it ALL the time for this reason.

In reference to your other posts- I would strongly recommend you stick to oils that are a Synthetic BLEND. Mercury does not recommend ANY full-synthetic oil in these steel-sleeved engines.

Also note the Forum Announcements- specifically regarding some "bargain sources" that are not supported or permitted in the Forums. Thanks!

[Fishfreq]

I don’t have any answers for you but would like to provide another viewpoint. There may a best “racing” oil that’s not necessarily the best “fishing” oil. What if there is an oil that has marginal gain in film thickness and shear strength and offers slightly better protection at 6000 rpm, provides negligible benefit at 4500-5000 rpm, but at 600-1200 rpm where you spend hours side imaging it cokes the piston tops so badly that on the next 6000 rpm run you burn a piston out from detonation instead of lack of lubrication?

That is a VERY good point @Jtreed99, and why I'm on this search. Apparently this Rejuvenade racing oil IS a very clean oil, as mentioned right up there by @europeanam. That oil supposedly was a military formulation designed to improve poor quality fuel too, and maybe that contributes to its clean burn? And sorry Don for including that link, makes sense to me now, that we don't want to steer any members to sketchy sites. Could be interpreted as spam, as I personally would probably never buy myself from the link I posted. It was just for reference and the price didn't seem that much higher than DFI, if it truly is better? I should take Don's advice and quit down that trail of full synthetic Klotz - maybe snowmobilers need full synthetic for it's sub-zero pour qualities, and that def won't benefit me in Nor Cal...

[Savage]

Your motor is a 2001, so you should probably just continue using the same oil that the motor has been drinking its whole life, after all its 19 years old.

[SilverFox579]

Your motor is a 2001, so you should probably just continue using the same oil that the motor has been drinking its whole life, after all its 19 years old.

Hear, hear.

[DewRonInc]

I myself have sent samples of many oils off to blackstone labs for testing. I wish I could find results. They would surprise the best of us. Now as far as meaning of cheapest. You can run 2 dollar oil and u can run 40 dollar oil. But ladies and gentlemen the oil is what keeps the metal where it belongs. So cheapest insurance u can buy. I filter my oil going into tank. I want cleanist possible product with the best corrosion protection and cleaest stock I can find. That also offers a reduction in carbon buildup. Mercury racing holds that position with Lucas running a close second. I spent d about 40 bucks per gallon. Spark plugs are 18 bucks each injectors are rediculas and so on.

[Fishfreq]

I myself have sent samples of many oils off to blackstone labs for testing. I wish I could find results. They would surprise the best of us. Now as far as meaning of cheapest. You can run 2 dollar oil and u can run 40 dollar oil. But ladies and gentlemen the oil is what keeps the metal where it belongs. So cheapest insurance u can buy. I filter my oil going into tank. I want cleanist possible product with the best corrosion protection and cleaest stock I can find. That also offers a reduction in carbon buildup. Mercury racing holds that position with Lucas running a close second. I spent d about 40 bucks per gallon. Spark plugs are 18 bucks each injectors are rediculas and so on.

I agree Ron, oil is cheap insurance. Can you share where you buy your Merc Racing oil? PM me if you can't post a link. My motor spent it's life running Merc Prem Plus, 400 something hours, I've bore-scoped it, still nice cross-hatch, strong compression/leakdown test. Don't necessarily want CHEAPEST, but cheapest GREAT oil. If that means $40 a gallon, that's what it means, and I'll indulge in other things less to use it. Who else can vouch for Lucas? Sometimes that's available at a discount, many vendors...

[SilverFox579]

Ron you have a racing engine, that's what an XS is. JMHO, Fishfreq's standard Optimax won't benefit from using the same oil not to mention Mercury specifically states NOT to intermix any other oil with racing oil. Direct from the FAQ:

NOTE: Mercury/Quicksilver Optimax/DFI oil, and Mercury/Quicksilver Premium PLUS are totally compatible with each other. Although you should use the CORRECT oil, you can switch to the recommended Optimax/DFI oil, simply by adding the correct oil to the tank.

NEVER MIX MERCURY RACING OIL WITH OTHER OILS IN THE REMOTE TANK!!!!

It you run out of racing oil, you can't just "top off" with DFI or Premium Plus. However, since DFI and Premium Plus are completely compatible with each other, they can be intermixed at any time without concern.

I use the oil Mercury recommends for my engine (DFI) and do so with complete confidence. Spark plugs aren't $18 (or more) unless you're buying from Mercury or some other higher priced seller. I buy direct from one of NGK's "oldest and largest US distributors" for under $12ea with the confidence I'm getting genuine NGK plugs from my engine.

That said, I fully respect those who choose to buy plugs from their dealer or other Mercury authorized sellers to get the one year parts and labor warranty. I simply don't see the value for my 11yr old standard Optimax.

The bottom line for anyone is it's their engine, their money and I advocate one do what makes THEM happy. If that means using racing oil and spark plugs purchased from your dealer in your standard Optimax, ProXS, or racing engine then full steam ahead.

[Fishfreq]

Ron you have a racing engine, that's what an XS is. JMHO, Fishfreq's standard Optimax won't benefit from using the same oil not to mention Mercury specifically states NOT to intermix any other oil with racing oil. Direct from the FAQ:


It you run out of racing oil, you can't just "top off" with DFI or Premium Plus. However, since DFI and Premium Plus are completely compatible with each other, they can be intermixed at any time without concern.

I use the oil Mercury recommends for my engine (DFI) and do so with complete confidence. Spark plugs aren't $18 (or more) unless you're buying from Mercury or some other higher priced seller. I buy direct from one of NGK's "oldest and largest US distributors" for under $12ea with the confidence I'm getting genuine NGK plugs from my engine.

That said, I fully respect those who choose to buy plugs from their dealer or other Mercury authorized sellers to get the one year parts and labor warranty. I simply don't see the value for my 11yr old standard Optimax.

The bottom line for anyone is it's their engine, their money and I advocate one do what makes THEM happy. If that means using racing oil and spark plugs purchased from your dealer in your standard Optimax, ProXS, or racing engine then full steam ahead.

You brought up great points Phil, compatibility being my fave. I read that about the racing oil once upon a time, but forgot until you brought it up.

I don't believe there's a HUGE difference between a std Optimax and a Pro XS. Once upon a time there were 'ProMax' engines built in the Mercury racing division that had higher balance and much higher redlines and only 1 yr warranties, but Pro XS was kinda a branding rename, regular production line motor, I understand. From a bearing tolerances or piston-cylinder wall clearance standpoint or oiling ratios, they're probably the same, I'm guessing? Carbon fiber reeds. Stiffer motor mounts and a little ECM programming, that's about it.

But being able to get oil at any Wal-Mart near a lake when you run out is pretty important. I'll run DFI with the cocktail the rest of the time, sigh... I was hoping that I'd find some magic aftermarket oil that was so far superior, price and performance, that I couldn't do without it. Some Klotz, Bel-Ray, Amsoil, unknown Lucas Castor-oil, Maxima, mini-barrel-jug of Honda two-stroke Motorcycle secret TCW-6 sauce that would protect our piston slap for 1,500 hrs, but that's just a pipe dream...

[EuropeanAM]

Depending on "which" ProXS you're referring to, there are considerably more differences. On the 225 Optimax (built after July 1, 2006), for instance, differences include (but are not necessarily limited to): Air compressor, Fuel Rails, Fuel/Air Pressures, Direct Injectors, Cylinder Heads, Pistons, Reeds, Reed Plate, Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, PCM Calibration, Air Attenuator and Flywheel Cover, and Compressor Filter vs. No Filter.

[Fishfreq]

Depending on "which" ProXS you're referring to, there are considerably more differences. On the 225 Optimax (built after July 1, 2006), for instance, differences include (but are not necessarily limited to): Air compressor, Fuel Rails, Fuel/Air Pressures, Direct Injectors, Cylinder Heads, Pistons, Reeds, Reed Plate, Ignition Coils, Spark Plugs, PCM Calibration, Air Attenuator and Flywheel Cover, and Compressor Filter vs. No Filter.

Don, from a functional standpoint, bearings, piston-cylinder wall clearances, operating temperatures, a/f and o/f ratios, and operating rpms, is there much of a difference in the oil that can or should be used?

[EuropeanAM]

Only based on the engine's intended use. The Racing XS was built and intended as Race Engine (essentially no idle or low RPM time other than getting the engine to operating temp), then "Go Fast, turn Left, Go Fast some more".

The ProXS ("Production Line Built" XS) was marketed as a consumer engine, primarily targeted to the fishing markets. Within a few years, it was apparent that the increased low-RPM runtime justified changing the recommended lubricant to the Optimax/DFI oil, as it was considerably cleaner and better suited to the new "duty cycle" the ProXS Optimax engines were subjected to.

More info on this in the FAQ Section.

[DewRonInc]

Believe it or not, Pennzoil additives were right there with Mercury, Much cheaper. Lucas 2 stroke racing oil was cleanest next to Mercury Racing. Yamalube was fair, way down the food chain though. Yamalube was actually only one with silicone in mixture. Bad for 02 sensors. Premium plus had highest levels of anti corrosion additives. I have taken engines apart to see how clean also. Mine is spotless and cylinders look new. I have always looked at oils through blackstone labs. Never once have they let me down. We run Royal Purple in everything we own that is 4 stroke. Buy it in 5 gallon buckets off of <See Announcements> etc. tests had shown about the best on market. It also has proved to be correct. Oil is only thing between you and heavy loss on a internal combustion engine. Why ever take that chance.....

[EuropeanAM]

It is my understanding that Pennzoil makes Mercury Oil. If that is true, why not run their oil. You can get a gallon for $21.00 compared to $64.00 for DFI / Optimax. There specification bulletin says it meets or exceeds all of the manufacture's specifications.

There would have to be a large difference in performance to justify the difference in price.

LA Hawg Caller

Definitely not true.

Guys... this topic has been dead for years. Best left that way, too.

Oil topics are much like politics... everyone has an opinion. Fact is- it's your choice since it's your engine. You just have to be willing to own the results.

Keep in mind- when it comes to the Optimax engines, the DIRECT INJECTORS are what take the biggest beating from poor quality oil and lack of fuel additives. And if you've priced them recently, it's probably prudent to do everything possible to help them live.

See the FAQ Section for more details on this, and many other topics.