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  1. #1
    Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    YDS AND TPS VOLTAGE

    im no pro so hoping someone that is can tell me if my tps voltages look ok they look like the are jumping around to me i see the same rpm with different voltages i would think they should all be the same like if you have 600 rpm and .59v it should be the same every time im at 600 rpm but it looks like mine is jumping around thanks for any help
    6.Data Logger [Data comparison graph]
    Time Unit Engine speed Fuel pressure Battery voltage TPS voltage Water temperature
    [r/min] (7.0±1.5)[MPa] (12-16)[V] (0.5-4.5)[V] (below 90)[°C]
    20 min 1050 6.66 14.36 0.88 49.7
    19 min 750 6.61 13.99 0.86 52.7
    18 min 1150 6.71 13.99 0.84 52.3
    17 min 700 6.66 14.21 0.72 53
    16 min 650 6.61 14.14 0.8 51.5
    15 min 650 6.61 14.06 0.72 53
    14 min 550 6.61 14.21 0.78 51
    13 min 2000 6.71 14.14 1.52 54.5
    12 min 1200 6.71 14.06 0.76 57
    11 min 500 6.61 13.84 0.64 52.7
    10 min 650 6.61 14.14 0.8 52.7
    9 min 600 6.56 13.92 0.8 52.7
    8 min 500 6.56 13.77 0.8 53
    7 min 400 5.93 13.4 0.82 51.5
    6 min 2650 6.71 13.99 2.13 52
    5 min 550 6.56 13.92 0.84 53.5
    4 min 750 6.61 13.55 0.61 57.5
    3 min 750 6.61 13.77 0.61 72.3
    2 min 550 6.56 13.55 0.59 77.5
    1 min 750 6.61 13.7 0.61 76.5
    0.9 min 700 6.61 13.77 0.61 78
    0.8 min 700 6.61 13.99 0.61 80
    0.7 min 750 6.61 13.92 0.61 81.5
    0.6 min 750 6.61 14.06 0.61 81.5
    0.5 min 550 6.56 13.7 0.61 81
    0.4 min 500 6.61 13.62 0.59 79.5
    0.3 min 550 6.56 13.55 0.59 77.5
    0.2 min 450 6.56 13.33 0.59 75.5
    0.1 min 450 6.61 13.33 0.59 73

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    #2
    My understanding is TPS should represent your throttle or hotfoot position. RPM can vary relative to the TPS voltage depending on the load or acceleration/deceleration.

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    #3
    The way I read your chart, from 20 mins down to 5 mins, you are moving the throttle and it is hard to tell anything about the tps from it. From 4 mins down, I assume you have the throttle in neutral and are not moving it. The TPS is a variable position potentiometer and the output voltage varies with the input voltage, so 14.06 input gives .61 output whereas 13.55 in gives .59 volts output. (The computer may use some other reference voltage that it sends to the TPS like 5 volts and should be better regulated, but not sure.) You are likely seeing some rpm cycling because of the voltage change, but I doubt the TPS is the issue. You may have a voltage regulator issue, but because the voltages are in range I doubt that also. Based on everything I have seen in your other post, I still think you have an injector issue. Fuel should not be leaking/spraying from a completely unplugged injector. The excess fuel may flood the cylinder and not burn, or it may fire and want to run up the rpms, setting up the cycling you seem to be seeing when it does crank. The video with the temp sensor made me think of the injector drivers. There are 2, 1 for each bank. I would not recommend swapping them or installing a new one until after you have had your injectors cleaned again and flow tested.

  4. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #4
    Thanks for the info I just pulled all the injectors back out to have them checked and all of them on the right side are clean on the ends but all on the left side are black so looks like it's all the even cylinders 2 4 and 6 that are messing up20191222_114248.jpg20191222_114154.jpg20191222_114151.jpg

  5. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #5
    Also I fixed the problem with the fuel coming out of the two injectors when I put the fuel rail back on I left the plug unhooked on what I Guess is the pressure regulator after that no fuel is coming out when unplugged

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    #6
    I can get it to idle with the 2x4 on the hot foot but it will try to die when I put it in gear and if I get it to idle good in gear when I go to neutral it will be at 1100 rpm if I let it die I have to raise it out of the water and hold it at wot to get it to start again

  7. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #7
    Here is what the new plugs looked like after the video 20191222_153702.jpg

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    #8
    I get that the injectors were over pressurized when they were leaking, but I would think that by design, the excess pressure should force them closed, not open. $20 each to have them cleaned, spray pattern checked and flow tested is a bargain. I did this annually when I was running mine hard 150-200 hrs a year. Again, I personally wouldn't swap or hook up a new $900+ part to them without knowing they are good. If you want to assume they are good, you can swap the injector drivers and see if the black pattern follows. If it does, then it is probably the driver that is the problem. If the same injectors are black, you are likely looking at a computer.

    Neutral and 1100 rpms implies too much fuel. It is possible for fuel to pass through the low pressure pumps into the crankcase. The only other way in is through the injectors. Either leaking or the computer is telling some or all to stay open longer.

    Hold WOT to start is also a symptom of too much fuel/flooded. It is very common with leaking LP pumps.

  9. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #9
    Can they leak internally I replaced both and did the loosin of the bolts and squeezed the primer had no fuel leaking on the outside of the old ones or the new ones I just put on

  10. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #10
    Also the 1100 rpms was with the hot foot pushed down it won't idle at all in the water if I don't give it some gas will only idle on the hose on the trailer

  11. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #11
    Also I fired all the injectors with the yds if the driver is bad would they have still fired

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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by skeeter21i View Post
    Can they leak internally I replaced both and did the loosin of the bolts and squeezed the primer had no fuel leaking on the outside of the old ones or the new ones I just put on
    They work off pressure pulses from the crankcase. There is a membrane that can be punctured/crack and allow fuel through. Typical symptoms are fuel sheen on the water, surging at WOT, and hard to start when warm. The engine will usually run/idle ok, but just need to hold the throttle WO to get it to start. I am under the impression yours are new and I don't get the impression this is your problem.

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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by skeeter21i View Post
    Also the 1100 rpms was with the hot foot pushed down it won't idle at all in the water if I don't give it some gas will only idle on the hose on the trailer
    You may want to look up the symptoms for a burned up tuner(?) on an HPDI. Pieces fall out and block up the exhaust. I had 1 do this, but I don't remember all the details from 15 years ago. It just doesn't seem to fit with what you are seeing from the injectors.

  14. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #14
    ok will do thanks

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    #15
    i did spray b12 thru the injectors with my air compressor after the sonic clean and all had the same real fine cone mist pattern but i dont have a way to check the flow amount will have to send them out for that

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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by skeeter21i View Post
    Also I fired all the injectors with the yds if the driver is bad would they have still fired
    I don't know what exactly it is sensing, and it has been 3 years or more since I hooked mine up and, so I don't know. At the very least, it is seeing the control signal from the computer and is likely sensing the firing of the driver, but I don't know for sure. I do know electrical problems are relatively uncommon, when compared to fuel related issues with these motors. LP pumps, fouled vst or mystery filters and fouled injectors are common problems that get overlooked frequently. I always tell people to clean the fuel system completely from front to rear to avoid chasing ghosts with these motors.

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    #17
    Do you know if all the fuel goes thru the vst pump before getting to the hi pressure pump I ask because I changed all the filters on the boat and the ones in the injectors and every filter was spotless not a speck of trash but I didn't know about the four in the hp pump so wouldn't there have to be trash in the vst screen to be in the four mystery filters

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    #18
    Quote Originally Posted by skeeter21i View Post
    i did spray b12 thru the injectors with my air compressor after the sonic clean and all had the same real fine cone mist pattern but i dont have a way to check the flow amount will have to send them out for that
    ??? I assume you powered them some way to open them, or did it just spray through? I do almost all my own maintenance, but I send this one out. I bought a blown engine just for the lower unit and spare electrical parts. I have a clean set of injectors ready to swap in, so I don't have to wait on them.

  19. Member skeeter21i's Avatar
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    #19
    Yes I fired them with a 12 volt battery and clamped a piece of 3/8 hose and filled it with b12 and used my compressor to force it thru

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    #20
    Strange thing is after you get past 800 rpm it runs great will turn 5700 rpm at 75 mph like it always has just won't idle

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