Sounds like a pain in the ass to me, but if you enjoy working on things, it might be fun. I don’t mind fixing a few items, but that thing sounds like a money pit.
Sounds like a pain in the ass to me, but if you enjoy working on things, it might be fun. I don’t mind fixing a few items, but that thing sounds like a money pit.
I've got a 2003 206, mine was a theft recovery hull. I basically had to rebuild the whole boat, but it's finished and set up the way I like it.
The console is bolted with 4 bolts into the rod locker and 4 on the side of the gunnel. It's also glued in those areas, can it be taken out? Yes but will will cause you a bunch more glass work and it may tear up the console also. I decided to leave mine in, if you have any questions hit me up. Ive been completely through this hull.
I hate to ask, but how many hours do you have in the 206 restore?
I actually watched that video a few times the other day. Love the color on that boat. You did a great job!!Originally Posted by grout-scout
Did you make that console yourself? I'd like to take the center seat out
Fixing the top cap and gunnels is going to run about $800, new hub on trailer, keel guard, repainting the trailer. Mostly cosmetic so I'm not super concerned. I'd like to upgrade to a SHO or new merc 250. Not a ton of work but definitely a good amount
If its a c-channel trailer they are easy to save if its a tube trailer not so much. That's why
Steve McQueen "Le Mans"
Own the Champ!Life Long Petty Fan!
2003 ChampioN 2006 250 Merc. XB, Prop By Mark C.
2002 Ranger Okeechobee Special EvinRude Ficht 90 / 9.9 4-Stroke GLAD to have a Get me to the Dock motor maybe!
About a year and half. Worked on it in my spare time
The seats and console came from Bass Boat Seats.com
Even though the transom is composite, they can separate and fail if not taken care of. I purchased a 2009 206 and there was about 1/2" to 3/4" flex and it was taking on water from the transom cap. I repaired it myself as it was on a simple dry, gut, clean and then 5200 in it along with a 32" X 2.5" brace inside the well. But it took three weeks and a lot of work. You are about to get into a major project. Also the top cap will often separate from the bottom. The screws tend to back out or shear. Look for bumps along the rubrail. You will see screws backing out and pushing out the rub rail. I had probably 2 to 3 dozen screws that had either back out or sheared. At the bow the screws were sheared and there was water entering between the top and bottom halves. I was trailering down hill shortly after I purchased the boat and water was rushing out of the front of the boat at the gap between the top and bottom portions.
If you have liquid filled hubs on the trailer, switch back to grease. If you have liquid filled hubs, bad things happen such as a catastrophic loss of oil which will cause scarring or worse if not caught immediately. I had to replace the entire brake system including a bad actuator. Not a hard job but it will take some time.
I haven't even started on the trolling motor, the engine, the livewell cracks, the bilge pumps and livewell pumps, the battery charger failing, the lower units leaking, the engine air compressor, the blue fuel line that deteriorates inside, the clogged fuel pump, the leaking oil pump, the coils, etc..., etc..., etc...
I can't make this stuff up my friend. Just know what you are likely getting into. It looks like a boat that has been completely ignored. You better get a very good deal.
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