Blazer VL100 The Forgotten Pocket Bass Boat

[rojoguio]

The burned area is the forward transverse bulkhead. Very critical to anchor it down, it is what helps shutdown any bow curl allowing wave energy to be transferred to the boat hull. Energy travels in a straight line so if I keep the maximum amount of wave energy out of the hull the boat should ride better. I glassed the snot out of it right before closing up the shop. The fairing of the balance of the seam is well along and super fair. I understand why manufacturers of the production boats carpet over this seam, what a PITA to fair.

[Slicefixer]

Looking good....👍

[rojoguio]

So the Cockpit Deck to Cap seam is now finished, faired to 80 Grit, all the inside corners were such a PITA because you can't sand with anything but a finger or thumb. Anyway it's done. Now comes the clean up. You can never blow all the dust out and it all has to be removed since now is the time to make the SeaDek patterns for the Cockpit Deck. I use clean water and a microfiber cloth to wipe clean. The hatches are on to keep dust out of the new carpet. I installed the carpet while installing the cap.

Fairing Finished1.jpgFairing Finished2.jpgPreClean1.jpgPreClean2.jpg

I like to make the SeaDek patterns now because I can see the radius of the fairing well and no console to work around. If you see, the console location is scribe cut into the gelcoat. If you don't get all the dust off the tape won't stick well holding your pattern material in place. So using 3/4in masking tape I layout all the breaks and offsets needed to make the SeaDek install look nice. SeaDek is not wild about sticking in a curved area so I only install on the Flats if possible. I think it is 39x77in per sheet. You don't want to Butt two seams right together because it does shrink some and a gap will open up over time. Best to design a break into the layout.

SeaDek Layout1.jpgMaking SeaDek Pattern1.jpg

Using Mylar sheet for the pattern material really makes patterning easy. I just tape in securely first but no tape over a pattern line. Cut your pattern sheet oversize. Then trace your tape lines, write "UP" or "TOP" on the topside, put arrows for direction, where it fits, etc. After you remove your pattern straight edges can be used to straighten up your lines if needed.

SeaDek Pattern Material.jpgSeaDek Pattern1.jpgSeaDek Pattern2.jpgSeaDek Pattern3.jpg

I hoped to Duratec Black Primer the fairing work today but too much water in the air here.

My Sewing Loft.jpg

This is a picture of my sewing loft. I make Hot Rod interiors and Marine Canvas & Cushions here. It's part of our second floor, real convenient commute to work.

[rojoguio]

I have a large post to write but the celebratory Wild Turkey Beverage has me clouded a bit. Tomorrow I will write up.

I do have one question, Does this 115 look sick on this 15ft boat or what?

Does This Look Sick.jpg

Engine is back on......................

[rojoguio]

For Lack of reference material out there I'm posting a dedicated Drain Tube Installation post. If a BBC member is looking for help installing a new tube this post will keep them from having to read the entire thread.
First of all you will need a drain tube flaring tool for the diameter tube you want to install. They are not expensive but necessary for proper fit and seal.

Tube Flairing Tool.jpg

The drain tubes must be cut to 1/4 inch longer than the length of the hole you want to seal. Being so thin the drain tube is very difficult to trim down.

Marking Drain Tube to Cut.jpgProperly Sized Drain Tube.jpg

I use a one inch dowel to control the amount of pressure against the saw blade, and two wood blocks to hold the flange off the saw bed so the tube is square to the blade. There must be a easier way I just don't know it.

Cutting Drain Tube on Bandsaw.jpg

So, once the tube is fitted I liberally fill the inside of the hole walls with 5200. Afterwards I slide the tube in flush from the outside, I personally want the factory flange on the "Show" side in case the flare does not come out perfect (your hole is on a angle). Install the tool following the directions provided, I have 2 large nuts on mine because the bolt is very long (using them as spacers). Tighten down the tool, flaring the tube firmly into place. Then remove the tool and clean up excess 5200 with mineral spirits.

Tube Tool Installing Tube.jpgTube Tool Installing Tube2.jpgTube Tool Installing Tube3.jpg

Finished and clean.............

Drain Tubes Installed.jpgDrain Tubes Installed2.jpg

[twitch]

Looking fantastic great amount of work and expertly done...

[cwilt]

Cant wait to see it floatin

[motobuffy]

Perhaps everyone who has followed this thread would contribute 10 bucks toward the purchase of another project for rojogulo. Personally, I looked forward to seeing the latest and will miss it. A job well done.

[rojoguio]

Best Fiberglass Primer.jpgCap Cockpit Seam Primed.jpgShot 6 coats of Duratec VE Black Primer on the Cap to Cockpit deck seam.

Cap Seam Straightened Screws Countersunk.jpgScrews Not Countersunk Properly.jpgScrews Countersunk Properly.jpgCap Gap Before Filling.jpgGap Left by Blazer.jpgGap Stbd Left by Blazer.jpgCap Sealing Epoxy.jpg

The Cap seam took quite a bit of work to get straight. With the 100 year old mahogany strips epoxied to the back of the cap gunnel I could tighten or loosen each screw to adjust. This area has to be straight before a rubrail is installed. Don't expect a new rubrail to hide a wavy seam. If the seam is wavy it will be transferred to the rubrail. I have the cap sitting a 1/2in lower than original boat manufacture position and the gaps on the aft corners are still huge. Nothing to do but epoxy.

Let's cover something here, boats are supposed to be waterproof. How many pick up their boats, pull the plug, and wait for all the water to run out? Water is Not supposed to be in the bilge unless you were caught in a storm. Cheaper, older, glass boats leak quite a bit in the seam. Manufacturers count on silicone when installing the rubrails to shutdown the water leaks. Well.............what happens to their seals when you come in bumping the dock, tree, another boat too hard? The rubrail takes the compression force. Result, a leaking Cap to Hull seam. It is very hard to troubleshoot the leak location because the leaks are in a area inaccessible. This is another reason boats "Water Log". Here only one medium - material will take the punishment and hold it's seal, Epoxy. Pictures after pumping the epoxy didn't come out well because my shop lights kept making the camera on my phone act up when I pointed to camera upward. Needless to say I put the bulk of both tubes of Epoxy into the seam.

O_Ring Under Helm Pump.jpgEngine On For Measurements.jpgEngine On For Measurements2.jpgWiring Console Upside Down.jpgWiring Console Upside Down2.jpg

Instead of sealing with silicone all gauges & helm pump have hydraulic o-rings underneath. Had to hang the engine on and set the console in the boat so I can measure accurately for steering hoses and control cables. Lastly, wiring the console upside down on my Tin boat seat so I can stand to do the job. The boat has the wiring to connect once the console is installed. The jackplate pump, cranking battery, and electronics battery was planned for the console. Well, last night while the console was sitting in the boat I realized a mistake. I want to mention here so someone else doesn't make it too. I cut in the side door on the console on the same side as the rod box. The door will not fully open. I have to install another door on the Stbd side now so I can have a door that opens fully. Fortunately another BBC member was over, P-Nut, he solved my problem with ease suggesting I install a matching door on the opposite side so it looks intentional.

Thank you Guys for your comments

[rojoguio]

Motobuffy, I have a 171SC Champion with 2/3rds of the hull stringer system and deck replaced, mothballed. You can find the thread on this forum. It is next up. I thought I could work two at a time, a 40 year old's energy and thoughts in a 60 year old's body. doesn't work.

[Rick H]

I thought I could work two at a time, a 40 year old's energy and thoughts in a 60 year old's body. doesn't work.

YEAP!

[Charles Prestridge]

Perhaps everyone who has followed this thread would contribute 10 bucks toward the purchase of another project for rojogulo. Personally, I looked forward to seeing the latest and will miss it. A job well done.

I am in for $20. This is incredible. I can’t imagine the skill-level and knowledge being in one individual.

[rojoguio]

SeaStar Hydraulic Ram Installed.jpg

This evening after painting the zinc on the custom Saltwater Livescope Pole I managed to clean all the old grease around the clamp area of the Yamaha and install the new SeaStar Hydraulic Steering Ram. I want to install bulkhead hydraulic penetrations for both the Hydraulic Steering lines and Jackplate Hydraulic lines. I have to get a handle on a trick hydraulic line installation.

Saltwater Livescope Pole 1.jpgZinc Lower Unit Coating.jpgSaltwater in for Custom Livescope.jpg

This is my latest Livescope Pole. It is designed for direct Saltwater Use. Super light weight, these get the "Perspective" mount also. Anyway I warm up the aluminum then coat with Zinc Outdrive coating then Epoxy paint. What is unique about this job is the "Black Box" will have a power switch at the box. The Pole will be completely removable if the owner wants to leave it home. I removed a Rod Tube system from within the Port hatch. the flange will be replicated out of .125 5052 marine aluminum. A U shaped rest will be bent and TIG welded to the flange. Afterwards I will sew custom foam insert for the support so the Livescope pole can be slid into the foam and with a second extra large RAM ball mounted to the bottom of the compartment, secured with the mount for storage. Out of Site Out of Mind. I will post up for the guys manufacturing Livescope poles for a living. If it helps their business all the better.

[mac18]

All I can say is this is absolutely incredible what you have done. I enjoyed the write up and can't imagine all the detailed planning this would have required and challenges you had to overcome. Thanks for sharing, I am blown away.

[rojoguio]

mac18, Thank you,

[wgammill]

Do you send those templates to seadek and they send you the finished product or do you get a roll of seadek and cut it yourself? As always beautiful work.

[rojoguio]

So Seadek can and will make cutting patterns from this kind of template if you order your finished SeaDek from them. They print out their pattern and send it to you to confirm fit. I will cut my own from sheet material I purchased. Afterwards using spray tack I will stick the cut material to a matching piece of Lauan. Once set I use a table router to apply a factory looking bevel to the material. By making the largest pieces first the Lauan gets recycled till too small to use. Really cuts down the waste. The pattern material will get recycled too. 6 hatches and some smaller deck pieces will be made.

[wgammill]

So Seadek can and will make cutting patterns from this kind of template if you order your finished SeaDek from them. They print out their pattern and send it to you to confirm fit. I will cut my own from sheet material I purchased. Afterwards using spray tack I will stick the cut material to a matching piece of Lauan. Once set I use a table router to apply a factory looking bevel to the material. By making the largest pieces first the Lauan gets recycled till too small to use. Really cuts down the waste. The pattern material will get recycled too. 6 hatches and some smaller deck pieces will be made.

Thanks that is a great idea.

[rojoguio]

If you do your own, matching hatches of course make all you need but mirror image hatches flip your patterns so the SeaDek pattern is replicated but mirror image too. If your hatches are slightly out of alignment use a very large straight edge to align the edges of your SeaDek then use masking tape to keep them in alignment. The human eye can be made to believe everything is straight if your SeaDek application is straight. The more color contrast in your project the more critical the color on top lines up. I pop a caulk line longitudinally and use large framing squares to masking tape guide lines down on larger installations. The more time spent in layout the better the final project will look.

[wgammill]

If you do your own, matching hatches of course make all you need but mirror image hatches flip your patterns so the SeaDek pattern is replicated but mirror image too. If your hatches are slightly out of alignment use a very large straight edge to align the edges of your SeaDek then use masking tape to keep them in alignment. The human eye can be made to believe everything is straight if your SeaDek application is straight. The more color contrast in your project the more critical the color on top lines up. I pop a caulk line longitudinally and use large framing squares to masking tape guide lines down on larger installations. The more time spent in layout the better the final project will look.

Thanks I'm using the cheaper EVA foam sheets, but I think your approach to applying it, will make it look much better when I get it applied. Appreciate your knowledge and help.