I'll preface with I'm new to Garmin and despite my searches, I can't seem to find anything definitive with this unit in terms of wiring. I'll be using 8ga wire to power my gls10, but am curious what is recommended for powering the 1022 I have for livescope. The run will be about 17'. Surely there is a recommendation in the owner's manual I am missing. Any info is appreciated thanks!
RMP talks about this in general......@ 1:30 they talk about wire size.
YOU are not entitled to what I have earned!!!!!
2014 Phoenix 619 Pro / 2014 Mercury 200 Pro XS
10GA minimum TINNED MARINE WIRE direct from cranking battery. You can run both the head unit and the Livescope module from the same circuit. Once you update the units after install, the module will turn off when you power down the head unit.
Here is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Last edited by Gamblinman; 12-15-2019 at 09:19 AM.
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."
Great info, thanks for the link. This makes me want to forgo the switch for the GLS10 unit. Has anyone experience loss of amperage with an in-line switch for the GLS10?
I ran 16' of 8ga into the bow rod locker , put a buss bar there, trimmed the gls10 wire to 2'blike a picture shows in gls10 install , then from the buss bar I wired in my gpsmap922 works flawlessly and steadily shows 0.6-0.8 volts more than any other unit on my boat.
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
You can't "lose amperage" thru a switch, whatever that means. If the switch is too small for the load current, it will drop voltage and heat up, and eventually fail. The GLS10 has a 7.5 A fuse, so use a switch rated for at least that much current. PS I do not use a switch and the system works perfectly. I keep the charger plugged in when not on the water.Originally Posted by purduephigam
would that be direct from battery?? Do you have a cut off switch for the buss bar??
YOU are not entitled to what I have earned!!!!!
I ran it straight to the battery yes, I had a switch but broke that in a couple weeks and it was quality so I figured I could add a lead clamp on battery terminal and use the wing nut for the buss bar accessories. No switch to fail and solid as heck. Only that buss bar is on the wingnut and all the other connections are on the stud of my X2
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
I spoke with a Gary at Garmin and he recommended 10ga wire from the battery to a fuse box and running the head unit and GLS10 through that. I'm actually going to use 8ga to be safe and I'll be hooking my hydrowave up to that as well. Appropriate fuses will be utilize at the fuse box and he also recommended a 5-10a fuse at the battery. I know this goes against what the Russell boys say, and after searches it seems to get more and more conflicting. I've already powered up both units without issue so I know I have a control. I'll set up the fuse box toward the bow and wire everything up to confirm everything is working appropriately before tucking everything away and buttoning up. I'll likely run a separate ground from the GLS10 to the battery as well.
Wish me luck this weekend.
I put a fuse box in my dash and have several items running off of it including my 12" Ultra and dont have any issues. I'd suggest using the wire connectors that have the heat shrink tubing.....i get mine at the local Oreilly's auto part store....
Similar to these: https://www.amazon.com/480pcs-Shrink...06023233&psc=1
YOU are not entitled to what I have earned!!!!!
I know if I turn my Hydrowave up I can see it cause interference (2d and si) has anyone tried it with livescope? I have not. I don't think the Hydrowave is insulated much.
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
I actually picked these up in addition to the heat shrink/solder butt connectors. Looking forward to the install, and I'll try to get some photos up once completed. Thanks for the input everyone.
As you mentioned above. 10ga will run what you're trying to do. It doesn't have to be "tinned" wire but does need the marine rating which is a different insulation that is oil and gas resistant. The tinned rating is only needed if you're going to be using the unit/wiring in and around brackish/salt water. We are now (have been since the middle of 2019) a Garmin dealer and certified installer for Garmin products. Call us if you have questions.
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I run lots of electronics. For example a 16 and 12 up front with 360. For years had problems. Solved by running an 8g high quality marine rated wire from an odyssey 2150 to a buss bar under drivers console through a switch in rear compartment. From that each device gets its own marine rated 10g wire on its own fuse. If you do the math the drop in voltage with a good quality 10g wire running under 15 feet is very little. Meaning going larger than 10g for each graph doesn't help. Plus if you look at the wires in the graph power cables that is usually the limiting factor. Plus appropriate grounding is very important. I wish all boat manufactures would run an 8g from battery to buss bar under console and let the end user/dealers run 10g off that.
What doesn’t make any sense on all the current electronics is that everyone recommends 8 or 10ga wire from battery to fuse block and to the units but yet the unit comes with the pre made power cord that has 3ft or longer of 20-22ga wire with a fuse holder at the end of it. With power and voltage drop being a big part of the puzzle with everyone having multiple units now why can’t they make the power lead in the pre made plug at least say 12ga or bigger.
my interpretation of livescope install tells you to cut the factory leads shorter if you are running the bigger wire the longer distance. i did do this my box only has 1' to the bussbar and in that span has a fuse
Mercury 250 proxs 2B115089
Maximum draw for 1022 at 12V is 2,7A. Staying within a 10% voltagedrop with your length of cable you would use minimum 18AWG.
Your GLS10 has a maximum draw of 4,8Ah, staying within the same 10% and same length of cable you would use minimum of 18AWG.
If you combine this in one cable you need a minimum of 14AWG.
Bigger is always better, and use cables with as many wires in the bundle as you can. This will reduce voltagedrop, and that is always a good thing. Using 8AWG like you already have planned, will cut the voltagedrop in half.
Look at it as water flowing through a pipe. The water is your voltage the pipe is your wire.
A small pipe/wire creates more resistance to your flow of water/voltage. A larger pipe/wire has less resistance to the flow of water/voltage.
If you were hooking up your unit 1ft. from the battery it would work great.
The farther you get from the battery/source the bigger wire you need because of the resistance in the small wire.
More resistance = less voltage.
I have 3 garmin units and the livescope box tapped off of #10 awg run and have had no problems.
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