I had a vault fail 5 hrs into a 6 hr drive, on my 2016 trailer, found some fishing line that had wrapped around the Axel and got into the rear hub seal, spindle was ruined, ended up having to replace the entire axle assembly, hub etc. So now when I stay at hotels I inspect for fishing line before making the long road trip. Some anglers just throw line in the parking lot when re-tying.
Boat Ramps are where most fishing line comes from when it is tossed out of the boat. Then there are those who run off their spinning rods on the way home. Though you are very accurate in fishing line being a major culprit. It’s like hay twine and wraps in farm country, it kills seals.
Originally Posted by Bass Cat Boats
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it already, I may have missed it, but while the inner bearing area looks decent,the OUTER bearing seems to be the one that has melted partially onto the spindle. I think I can see some material from the bearing still on the spindle. I would be sure to use emery cloth and repair the area on the spindle. Also, I would suggest you try sliding the new bearing on first, without the hub, to check for correct fit. If this is not a job you are too familiar with, be sure to adjust the bearing properly when installing.
I actually cleaned the old spindle I sent pics of with Emory cloth and had new bearings, races, installed in the original hub by a local Vault dealership. When I dropped the hub off in person on Friday 13th , I specifically asked for everything to be Vault and was told it would be ready Tuesday at the latest if parts needed to be ordered. I never heard anything until Wednesday when they called to ask a question. It was obvious he hadn't ordered the Vault end cap or grease and I was anxious to get the hub back to reinstall and put wheel on and get to fish this weekend. So I have a Vault rear seal. He packed bearings in Lucas Red Tacky, and I have a generic front cap with the rubber fitting. I put the caliper and wheel back on and also packed more red and tacky in spindle hole and end cap. Put wheel back on and I be damned if the wheel still gas a "little" side-to-side slop in it. Just enough to make me unsatisfied. There should be zero slop correct? I've read all the observations of my spindle on this thread. My hub builder said it sounds like a loose spindle nut. Is that possible? It only needs to be finger tight. And it was far enough on to push against washer and allow space for cotter pin. A buddy told me he wouldn't be scared to pull it but I'm irritated that there is a little slop. The wheel beside it has none. I did notice my original washer (that I did put back on) was a little bent. I went to Napa and bought a washer as close as possible to it with exact hole size. I have the wheel back off. But I don't feel confident this new washer will make a difference.
At the time (last Wednesday) UFP California still hasn't shipped the end unit. I messaged them and they said it would be Friday. Friday came and went and order still not processed. So here I am with no end unit arriving in the next few days.
Any and all advice appreciated.
A smidge of slop is better than no slop when it comes to tightening the spindle nut.
I follow the Champion trailers procedure for tightening the spindle nut.
https://www.championtrailers.com/pre...heel-bearings/
2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870
If you're referring to the attachment in your post, my authorized service guy would have done that when building my hub. I did not install that back oil seal mentioned in your attachment.
I've done a lot of thinking regarding that 1/8 inch allotted play mentioned on page 2. I have that manual. I know how long 1/8 inch is, but not in regards to "feel" when evaluating sideways slop. I'm no expert at this stuff. Is there a way to definitively know if I'm getting less than 1/8 inch slop?
I put the wheel on the hub after I tighten the spindle nut as it's easier to feel the slop.
2006 Triton TR-21 XD, Mercury 225 Pro XS, S/N 1B287870
I installed a new end unit from UFP California. This consisted of a new spindle and hub with Vault cap. I used the same caliper that was already on trailer and will use brand new caliper that came with new end unit as a spare. So I just bolted on the new spindle/hub/rotor and made sure it was torqued at 150 pounds. I jacked up other side of that axle and felt a LITTLE wobble in that wheel. I want to go ahead and fix this since I have a totally rebuilt spare hub with new bearings/back seal packed in Lucas Red and Tacky grease (had this built at my local Vault dealer before deciding to buy an all new end unit). When I took wheel off, this is what's there. I was disappointed to see it didn't have a Vault end cap considering I have a Vault sticker on the front inside of trailer. I would have thought all 4 wheels would have the Vault end cap (all wheels have a cover over the end cap that the wheel goes over so can't see it until wheel is removed). The side I replaced with completely new end unit had gotten so hot that the bearings were in black pieces. So don't know what that end cap originally looked like but it has the black Vault cap now.
As you know from above, I attempted to re-use the spindle that had the burned up bearings. But I ran into too many issues with its threading. So got rid of it altogether when I bolted on new end unit.
So on this other side, notice the pic with brown watery substance. Does Vault grease do this when it's been sitting a few weeks and it's cold outside? That stuff came out when I popped out that rubber end cap.
What does Vault grease look like? Can it be liquidy like this when not heated from movement? I'm assuming since I have a tad of wobble, that those bearings are STARTING to wear a bit. I want to get it 100% solid with zero wobble like my other 3 are now. I also wanted to use this hub I'm going to remove as a spare. Anyone have any experience with this?
https://postimg.cc/zbqb8Yry
https://postimg.cc/phk9dcWq
https://postimg.cc/4KkH2h2b
Doesn't look right to me. Looks like rust and water. The hybrid grease should be dark grey to almost black.
Thanks guys. We attempted to remove the pictured hub and it's back bearing is sticking. I've tried pulling with everything I got and it won't come off. So I unbolted this spindle and replaced it with one I just happened to purchase for the purpose of a spare. Then I put my recently rebuilt hub on that spindle. Now for this spindle/hub that has been removed and pictured below.
How would you suggest I get the hub off this spindle? I hope to use this hub/spindle as a spare ( the bearings will need replaced) so I don't want to damage the hub or spindle.
https://postimg.cc/sGgsnbmx
So I’ve read through this thread and just curious. Has anyone ever tried to buy just the full bolt on hub/spindle to carry as a spare? If the price was even remotely reasonable I could see just unbolting the spindle and replacing the whole assembly without even touching the seals.
I’ve never had the newer vault hubs apart but I’ve been through the old style “ranger cool hubs” in and out and I used to carry everything to do a complete replacement if needed on a longer trip.
2019 Ford F-150 Platinum (3.5EcoBoost/10spd)
**Listed FOR SALE**2014 Ranger Z119C w/ Evinrude ETEC 225HO Running Croxton’s Razor 4XL 25P
Helix 12 Mega G2N’s with Ultrex
Think like a fish, no matter how weird it gets
I was able to purchase a complete end unit from UFP. I discussed it earlier in this thread. I did that several weeks ago when replacing my first wheel with issues (back left). It came in the box with spindle, caliper, sealed hub and Vault end cap. Literally just bolted on the spindle torqued to 150 pounds. Apparently I should have ordered more than one.
Kev: Looks like you need to use the "hot wrench" to remove the hub. Find a buddy with a propane torch and apply a little heat. It will burn up the rubber on the seals, but should loosen the bearing without damaging anything.
"The man of system is apt to be very wise in his own conceit; and is often so enamored with the supposed beauty of his own ideal plan of government that he cannot suffer the smallest deviation from any part of it…He seems to imagine that he can arrange the different members of a great society with as much ease as the hand arranges the different pieces upon a chessboard.” Adam Smith, The Theory of Moral Sentiments
Is there a hole in the end of the spindle? There should be a hole in the end and another towards the back of the spindle coming out the side of the spindle. It's to equalize pressure from front to back. Blow that out with some brake cleaner. Then use canned air held upside down to freeze the spindle from the inside out. That will make the spindle contract. Should be able to beat the hub off then.
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