Can anyone explain how this system is rigged to have the dedicated electronics battery start to charge up after his cranking battery is topped off? Forward to 8:15
Thanks
Can anyone explain how this system is rigged to have the dedicated electronics battery start to charge up after his cranking battery is topped off? Forward to 8:15
Thanks
Found out that it was the Blue Seas Add a Battery. Anyone ever install one of these before?
I have a couple of times. Very easy to install and Blue Seas has good wiring diagrams to use as reference. I don't have the model number handy, but I preferred using the model with the 1-2-1+2-Off switch.
How the system works is simple. Once the engine charges the starting battery up to 13 volts and is steady for a period of time (a couple of minutes) the Automatic Charge Relay (ACR) bridges the batteries and sends whatever charging amps you have available from the alternator to both batteries. If your electronics/house battery is used heavily you would need to run the engine for quite a while to have it charge it up fully.
With a lot of electronics and live well pumps running, it can extend how long you can run them but would not be a suitable replacement for a plug in charger unless you had some really long run times on your big engine.
Thanks for that. So there is no way to charge that battery while you are off the water unless you get an additional charger for it?
Those ACR systems are great, though they work better on vessels that make longer runs than bass boats. As bass guys, we crank up, make a run to the next spot, shut down. If you follow any of the folks on YouTube who live aboard their boats full time, they have these installed. Thing is because they're on the ocean making long hauls, these work great. Not saying they won't work on bass tubs. It's just that we use our bass boats in a different manner which doesn't allow the full potential of an ACR system. If I ever get an off-shore salt boat, I would definitely install one.
If you can not keep one battery charged up do to the electrical demands, you will never be able to add anything to a second battery by running the big motor, don't waste your money. The alternators are designed to only maintain one battery of the correct size and type. Asking it to more than it is designed to will lead to premature alternator failures. In some cases where the big motors runs all day or for very long runs (hours not minutes) it can be beneficial
Thank You Leon Pugh
Some motors (outboards) have dual voltage regulated charging outputs including my outboard which outputs ~ 2X20 for providing charge for two batteries or puts out 40 charging amps if using one battery. Even if I used the combine option inside the motor, the alternator would not for long keep up 1 boat battery fishing my small run and gun lakes despite what salesman tell some local boaters.
Last edited by Lou r Pitcher; 12-09-2019 at 09:24 PM.
Thanks for the feedback guys
I’m thinking of just upgrading my cranking battery from a Optima Blue Top D31M to a Odyssey 31M-PC2150 to support a third unit and 360.
Would my Minn Kota 345PC (15amp per bank) be sufficient enough to charge the Odyssey ok?
Ive seen a couple different pros running the odyssey with MK precision chargers so far.
I appreciate the help
That Optima has the worst specifications on the market. Certainly the Odessey you mention is top of the line but also very expensive. Why not look at a Duracell AGM for about $175 from Sam’s Club. It has been working fine for me and I have 3 units plus every other electronic gadget you can buy.
The Yandina Combiner 100 (http://www.yandina.com/c100InfoR3.htm) is available for under $60 at some retailers.
Last edited by Ann-Marie; 12-10-2019 at 08:39 AM.
So here is the big question
What happens when you get home and plug in the charger?
Seems to me you might want a switch to remove this from the circuit prior to plugging in the charger
the add a battery system switch isolates the loads (Motor/electronics) but still allows the batteries to be combined when the charger is plugged in
Basically the same thing with the Yandina Combiner the batteries still are connected in parallel when its sees a charge
"The handicapped angler"
I have used several different methods to accomplish what you're asking. Basically, you need to know how an alternator works before attempting to rig a charging system. An alternator (for lack of better term) "sees" the batteries it needs to charge. It has to see the battery before it can charge the battery In order for it to see the battery(s) they have to be connected in parallel with each other. At that point, the alternator sees total voltage and amp/capacity of battery and charges only what is demanded to bring the battery back to, and keep the battery in a charged state. When you parallel batteries, if they are different voltages, the one with the lesser voltage becomes a load on the good batteries and they try to equalize. What this means to you is if, you run a cranking battery down, then parallel the batteries through a switch of some type (or jumper cables) the alternator sees the combined voltages of the batteries divided by two (not exactly but close enough for discussion purpose). Then the alternator tries to replenish the battery as if it was one and puts out an output to do that and maintain the batteries in a charged state. Sometimes this could be a good thing. "If" as in most cases the cranking battery discharges to 12.0V and is paralleled with a "hot" battery at 12.5, then the alternator sees apx 12.25 and charges as such which puts a lesser load on the alternator. However, by charging at a lesser rate (plus whatever it takes to run the system) it takes longer to charge the cranking battery. What I have done to mine, and others, is put a battery selector switch in between the cranking and the house battery. Run on the cranking battery, then run on the house battery, then combine the two if needed. Also selecting both will allow charging in parallel. Hope all this makes sense.
John
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Admittedly the amp hours and reserve capacity is higher much higher on the Duracell.
But, an Optima D31M has a CCA rating of 900 amps. The Duracell 31 states 800 amps CCA. Just want to make sure I have enough power for my Mercury ProXS
Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go
Thanks Bobcoy! I had a feeling that was the case as many pros run the Odyssey’s with a MK Precision charger, this was the response I got from Odyssey:
“If I read the manual online, it tells me that the peak voltage for flooded battery type is 14.4 volts.
It also tells me the peak voltage for AGM battery type is 14.4 volts.
We actually recommend 14.7 volts, so I would say that this charger is not optimized for ODYSSEY.
I believe ProMariner has a 3 bank, approved for Odyssey use.”
The Minn Kota FAQ's State all Odyssey batteries. The PC series is on the list of chargers in the Odyssey list. I know they state a 40 amp charger to be optimal but none of the PC series has 40 amps. But there are a bunch of technicalities about depth of discharge in lab language. Over my pay grade!
Maybe this explains it(Accepted list) https://www.odysseybattery.com/docum...V_chargers.pdf
AND...Are Minn Kota On-board Precision Chargers tested and approved for use with all Odyssey Marine batteries?
All Minn Kota On-Board Precision Chargers have been tested by Odyssey and found to properly charge all sizes of their marine battery line.
Last edited by bobcoy; 12-11-2019 at 04:58 PM.
Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go
Odyssey been there done that. Their charger 14 months later battery was dead, 14 months later battery was dead again. They replaced the charger and batteries sold the setup. Never had so much trouble with batteries. Won't go back there again.
Just say'in
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