wheres your airbox/silencer?
That pic of carb throat looks like possible water contamination/intrusion.
Mike
2019 Ranger 520L w/ 250HO ETEC G2
2011 Tracker 175TXW w/ 75HO ETEC
Airbox silencer was off while i worked on it.
Yea i believe you are correct blkfac4. Not sure how tho.
Didn't I tell you to check for water in the fuel tank, and maybe the oil tank. That is something you should have checked to eliminate one of the possibilities I listed. Oh well.
Honestly 316jughead, I did check. I couldn't really tell if there was any water in the tank. I even drained some out and checked it. It looked good at the timeOriginally Posted by 316jughead
But after i saw that today I drained the entire tank. Oil looks good.
I checked the fuel again today and doesn't seem like there is any water in the tank. Also check the oil tank. All looks good. After it shut itself off, i unscrewed the drain on the float bowl and fuel came out. Rechecked spark and compression again and both are good. Before it shut itself off i tried pumping the primer bulb and it didn't help. I did a link and sync again and it is still on point. I do not see any leaking lines.
Im not giving up yet
To check for water in the fuel, put a fair amount in a clear jar and let it set for a while, water will separate out. You can't see water in the fuel if it's mixed.
You should also check for air in the fuel lines, air can be sucked in at a fitting but it will not leak fuel. The manual should show you how to do this. If not let us know.
I will go ahead and put fuel in a jar and check for water.
I will search my manual for checking air in fuel line.
I found a problem today but it's confusing me. I checked for spark a couple times and it had a weak spark once. Everytime i check there after it had a strong number 6 cylinder. Well today it has no spark on number 6 and yesterday it did. Im not very familiar with the ignition system. Im starting to believe power pack issue.
Oh and i did swap the coils and it's still on number 6 cylinder
This motor is starting to drive me crazy
On your ignition, the stator has two charge coils to supply the ignition voltage, one for each side of cylinders. Since you have spark on both banks that shows that both charge coils are making voltage. Also the sensor is good. Since you swapped coils and the no spark stayed on #6, you have either a problem in the connectors, the encoder wheel or a bad power pack. Unplug, inspect and clean the connections, check for spark, if no spark and your satisfied the connections are good, inspect the encoder for cracks or a broken edge on #6 slot. If that all is good, bad power pack. Sometimes you will find more than one thing contributing to the problem, don't assume anything in trouble shooting.
These motors are very sensitive to bad language, if any bad language is used around them they will react in a negative way. Then you must go away and leave it alone for a minimum of 12 hours, or you can cover the power head with foil, wait 3 hours and start over, ever aware not to even think bad language. Some motors are more sensitive than others. Good luck.
Last edited by 316jughead; 12-30-2019 at 08:55 AM.
And that’s the truth.!!These motors are very sensitive to bad language, if any bad language is used around them they will reactive in a negative way. Then you must go away and leave it alone for a minimum of 12 hours, or you can cover the power head with foil, wait 3 hours and start over, ever aware not to even think bad language. Some motors are more sensitive than others. Good luck.
Haha that's the best thing I have ever heard. That makes me feel a little better. I will check them tomorrow and clean every connection. Hopefully I can fix it soonThese motors are very sensitive to bad language, if any bad language is used around them they will reactive in a negative way. Then you must go away and leave it alone for a minimum of 12 hours, or you can cover the power head with foil, wait 3 hours and start over, ever aware not to even think bad language. Some motors are more sensitive than others. Good luck.
I read the entire thread but my old eyes perhaps missed it if you already said it...out of my curiosity: when you say you have good spark do you use the visual check with an inline tester?..or with a spark jump distance checker thing?....reason I mention is because I use to tell the guys here I had good spark until I measured the gap it was supposed to jump...then I knew I had spark but not a good one, mine needed to jump a 7/16 gap with a bluish noisy arch.
Today I had a chance to install my new power pack and now I have spark on every cylinder. But after starting, it would shut off after a few seconds. So I guess I will need to go back to the beginning and check everything
HAVE YOU CHECKED FOR WATER IN FUEL. HAD THAT HAPPEN TO ME. ALSO CHECK PLUG WIRES END TO END FOR RES.
I checked for water using the jar method and didn't see any
I think I am about to give up. Carbs have been rebuilt and I double checked the float and everything is by manual. I adjusted the timing correctly. I have spark on all 6 cylinders. New stator, rectifier, power pack, plugs, new fuel line, and new fuel filter. I did a link and sync 4 times and it is on point. Compression is by the manual. This is driving me crazy
Reply With Quote