96 Mariner 200 efi, sorry sticker with serial number missing. Engine has oil injection that was disconnected by previous owner. Lines were plugged at engine. Can I remove all lines , tank, just plug at the engine pump? Also took a bore scope to cylinders, slight moist carbon buildup. What can I safely add to fuel to curtail this? Thanks in Advance.
You will get a lot on here mention Dons Mix, Ive always ran one ounce of Seafoam per gallon. Had new head gaskets installed a few years ago and the cylinders almost looked like they were polished. Valves were clean and the only black was right where the spark plug lit on the piston. Id say the sea foam is doing its job.
Cocktail mix would be wise.
COMPLETE and UTTER removal of all oil tanks, lines, module, pump, driven gear, and oil warning module/sensor are a must.
Installation of the MERCURY Oil Pump Blockoff, o-ring, bolts, plug and VST plug is required. Parts aren't expensive- Rhonda in our Parts department can assist with all of them.
In addition to the Fuel Cocktail... you might consider using some Power Tune when the engine is warm (directly in the spark plug openings, let engine sit trimmed up overnight).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
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Not being difficult but why can't the pump and gear just remain? What is a VST? And were is the oil sensor located? The plugs in the engine are Champion L6VC, its a surface gap plug. Do outboard plugs come in different heat ranges? Thanks.
If you leave the pump and gear in the engine, there is a very high probability that the pump will fail, potentially depositing debris from the drive gear into the crankcase. Do it right... or leave it oil injected.
VST=Vapor Separator Tank, on port side of engine... houses the Fuel Pump, float, etc.
Correct plug is BU8H (NGK). And that is a surface-gap plug.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thank you sir. I'll be calling Mrs. Rhonda shortly.
Ok, ordered the parts from mrs. rhonda. If you could tell me were this oil warning sensor is I would appreciate it.
Engines that were equipped with the motion sensor: Located directly above the DRIVEN gear shaft (affixed to the block with one screw above the oil pump).
Don't have the serial number here to know exactly which model you have... but that's where it would be located.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Found it, it is above the gear. Wires go to a black double stacked box. Cut wires? Tie them together? Also wires from small oil tank on engine go around to front to another small black box with a red light. Same questions. Sorry about being a PITA.
Remove the oil warning module completely. You will completely disconnect the WIF (Water in Fuel) Module as well.
ALL oil injection components, hoses, clamps, fittings, sensors, check valves, modules, etc. come off the engine. System must already have 50:1 premix primed up and run through BEFORE doing this.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Engine is 50-1 already, no problems there. I removed the module with led light, no problem. I have two double stacked modules on top of port head, and one more module on side of port head. all three are tied together in one form or another, one wire, white blue tracer goes to my temp switch. How am i going to read temp on my dash now? I know from cars that efi can be sensitive to certain sensors, water temp being one of them. Does anyone have pictures? Manuals don't have delete procedures.
Will removing any of these modules put this efi in some sort of limp mode?
Block off parts just came. I'll move along with the mechanical parts.
The oil warning module should not be tied into the EFI system (directly). It does have a reference wire (green) that runs down to one of the ignition coils- dummy that wire (or remove it).
When finished, you should have a TAN w/BLUE STRIPE wire from the STB side temp sensor to the small junction block (stb side of engine). Remaining tan w/blue stripe wires join there, this is the SIGNAL wire for the warning horn (solid tone only in the event of an overheat). Test by grounding this terminal w/key on (horn should sound).
If you have a temp gauge (they were borderline useless on these engines), it should not be affected as it would be wired totally separate.
PORT side temp sensor should remain wired as it was (that is the one that interacts with the EFI system).
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
Thank you guys for this post . I know that deleting a aging oil injection system is most times the preferred way to go , but I would have never thought about the parts needing to be physically removed from the engine or the possibility of parts that are left on engine failing and contaminating the engine . Again I thank you for this Thread .
Mr. Simpson I ask these questions from sheer ignorance and defer to someone with knowledge on the subject at hand. I'm in the automotive field and answer questions all day, and just like my customers i'm glad i have a pool of knowledge to draw from. With that, I tip my hat to Don Weed, Thank you sir.
Since my temp gauge is borderline useless, were would be the optimal point to tap in a water pressure gauge?
welch plug #0G351510 . found a wiring diagram. Oops, seems like i disconnected the oil module, and the rpm limiter, and detonation sensor. Seems what i thought was a temp sender was a detonation sensor. So what do you want me to reconnect? Sometimes I have to laugh at myself, keeps me from pulling my hair out.
My motor (2002 200 hp) had a plug in the block below the starboard head that could be removed and a barbed fitting put in its place for tubing to a water pressure gauge.
Mercury 2002 200hp Carbed Saltwater
OT566776
2002 Cape Horn 22' Bay
Reinstall the detonation control module (advance module) and reconnect to the knock sensor (unless you intend to remove it and perform a complete Sync-n-Link procedure to setup engine/timing).Originally Posted by va. bass
On your engine, look for the port directly AFT of the flywheel. That port is the correct place for water pressure on this model (you may already have a hose there, running down to the poppet valve). Tee as close to the fitting as physically possible (up high)... if no fitting is present, one can be obtained.
Later models had two small threaded ports at the bottom of the exhaust chest (below the coil plate)... probably not there on this engine unless powerhead was replaced.
Dual Mercury Master Technician- for Mercury Outboards, Mercruiser and Mercury Racing at European Marine in Greenville, SC.
Still consider myself a "Marine Apprentice" after 47 years (learn something new every day).
Mercury Parts, Mercury Outboards, Smartcraft & Accessories, Injector Service, TDR Reeds- BBC Sponsor
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