I only have one voltage regulator, should there be two?

[EuropeanAM]

Did you check resistance between the two yellow wires (stator side, wires unhooked)?

Resistance from each yellow wire to GROUND?

[eh2000]

EuropeanAM, I changed my mind and braved the cold to check resistance.
The resistance between the two yellow wires on the stator side with them unhooked is .000 on 2000 Ohms and 00.4 on 200 Ohms

The resistance from each yellow wire to ground was 1.

[silvertalon]

You can actually read the ac voltage output from the yellow stator wires. Should be about 8VAC at idle. You can also get a DCV reading from the grey tach wire and it should increase with rpm's. If the grey wire volts are there (S on back of tach), and it still doesnt work, check the ign purple (key on) and the blk ground on the back of the tach. Don't forget that a shorted tach will kill a motor or keep it from starting as well. Battery volt charging can be verified by first load testing the battery to draw it down a little. If you don't have a load tester, run the trim up and down several times and turn on everything in the boat- pumps, lights electronics etc, for a few mins. This should draw the battery down as well. Then hook VOM to battery and start the engine. See if charge volts come back up to 12.3. Calibrate your meter if its analog. A fully charged battery should read appx13.2V with engine off. You can also check battery volts right on the red at the rect/reg. This can tell you if there's a wire or pin connection problem between the rect and the battery itself.

[EuropeanAM]

EuropeanAM, I changed my mind and braved the cold to check resistance.
The resistance between the two yellow wires on the stator side with them unhooked is .000 on 2000 Ohms and 00.4 on 200 Ohms

The resistance from each yellow wire to ground was 1.

Double check these, and make sure your hands are not touching any metal portion of your test leads (your body will skew readings).

The resistance reading from each yellow lead (to ground) should be the same as your meter reads with both leads DISCONNECTED (infinity, open circuit, etc).

If you get the same results- that stator needs to be REPLACED.

[eh2000]

silvertalon, excuse me if this is a foolish question, but would the stator be damaged if the yellow leads were disconnected and the engine was running? I will take your advice when I get the boat back on the water to test the Tach and new Voltage Regulator connections, thank you.

EuropeanAM, the multimeter I have displays 1 as the infinity or open circuit reading. I should have mentioned this. I'm not sure why it does this, but I just confirmed by turning it on and looking at the reading with the red and black leads connected to nothing. I will recheck the resistance readings on Friday to confirm and report back. Again, thank you.

[eh2000]

Almost have the fuel system sorted out on this outboard and I will be returning to the Voltage Regulator issue this coming weekend.

I removed the Voltage Regulator and did some troubleshooting. I put blue tape on one of the yellow leads to differentiate it from the other. I used a Snap-On EEDM503D Digital Multi-Meter to perform the tests and I will do the final tests on the water with a Digital Voltage Adapter.

Using the continuity setting on the DMM I recorded the following information.
Continuity between the Black lead of the VR and the body of the VR.
Momentary continuity between the Red fused lead and the body of the VR. Doesn't seem to be reliable or consistent.
No continuity between any wire combination.

Using the diode setting on the DMM I recorded the following values.
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR = .329
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR =.328
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR = 1 (infinite resistance or open line)
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = .975
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to unfused red lead of VR = 1

Black lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any wire on the VR = 1

Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = 1.993
Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any other wire = 1

Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = 1.993
Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any other wire = 1

Black lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = 1.832
Black lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR = 1.172
Black lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any other wire = 1

Black lead of DMM to Black lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any wire = 1

With the DMM set to 200k resistance I found the following

Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR = 115.3
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR = 114.0
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = 138.6

Black lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any wire = 1

Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR = 92.9
Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = 46.2
Black lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR = 1

Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR = 92.9
Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Black lead of VR = 46.1

Black lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to any wire = 1

Black lead of DMM to Black lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red fused lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Black lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow lead of VR= 46.4
Black lead of DMM to Black lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Yellow with blue tape lead of VR = 46.5
Black lead of DMM to Black lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Grey lead of VR = 1
Black lead of DMM to Black lead of VR and Red lead of DMM to Red unfused lead of VR = 1

From this I am assuming the Grey lead is useless and I need to wire the tachometer to the fused red along with the Red on my outboard.

Any thoughts would be very welcome.

[EuropeanAM]

DO NOT put the tachometer on RED wires. Gray lead ONLY.

[eh2000]

More updates today from getting the boat in the water and actually being able to run the engine.
The resistance between the yellow wires from the stator is .001 Ohm when my DMM is set to 2k. The yellow wires also have continuity with each other, but not with ground.

With the outboard running and the yellow leads of the stator connected to my DVA I observed AC Voltage of .24-.95 when the DMM was set to 20 and .3 - .4 Volts when the DMM was set to 200.

DC Voltage at the battery terminals at idle was 12.1 or so and when I revved the engine the DC voltage did not increase. I was unable to note an exact RPM because my tachometer remained inoperable despite confirming the grey signal wire had continuity from the connection with the voltage regulator to the sense wire post on the Tachometer.

From this I'm assuming I have a bad stator that was damaged when the Voltage Regulator melted down.

Any suggestions would be helpful before I order a stator and remove the flywheel.

[EuropeanAM]

From your testing it appears that the stator is shorted. Replace it.

[eh2000]

EuropeanAM. Is part number 398-5454A36 what you would recommend for a 16 Amp stator? I got a message that this part can't be ordered online and I want to have the right part number before I call on Monday.

[EuropeanAM]

You probably entered the number wrong- ignore the "398-". Type ONLY 5454A36 into the "add to order by part number" field (I just checked and it went right in).

That being said- this is a 16a stator used in Racing Applications (specifically). Were there ANY numbers on the old stator or harness?

For fastest results- contact the office tomorrow.

[eh2000]

The old stator was a CDI part number 174-5456-16.

[EuropeanAM]

5454A36 should work.

[eh2000]

I installed the new stator and the problem appears to be fixed. Thanks for all the help BBC and especially EuropeanAM

[birmar]

Compression test after the 5 minute warm up indicated the following. 106, 107, 94, 83, 88, 86. I could have easily done this wrong so I will further review how to conduct a compression test and then repeat later.


I realize this thread is a bit old now but i didnt see where anyone addressed these low numbers. If you're still having other issuses i would correct the low fuel pressure issue & reason for low compression as you will need a rebuild. I would also look to procure the correct flywheel & charging system during this time.

[leonreno]

For correct compression testing read this:
http://www.bbcboards.net/showthread.php?t=267446

Your results could also indicate a battery that was getting weaker as you tested each cylinder. Charge the battery and run test in reverse order.

[JOE54]

+1 agree