I only have one voltage regulator, should there be two?

[EuropeanAM]

8M0058226 is the Rectifier (only).

8M0084173 is the Regulator (latest).

If you are going to use a Rectifier only, it will CHARGE, but you will need to monitor voltage on longer runs, since the ECU has a built-in shutdown feature for high voltage (EFI Models).

[JOE54]

most all of the early efi and some carb engines that used the 16 amp charge had a rectifier and a block mounted (just rear of flywheel) regulator p/n 88825a7 nla from merc now , had a small harness with red and yellow wires that went to rectifier along with stator wires and 12v supply, 220 laser 175,and some 150 had this system, been there seen that

[eh2000]

EuropeanAM and JOE54, thank you. I think I’ll stick with the regulator.

[ssv1761982]

EuropeanAM and JOE54, thank you. I think I’ll stick with the regulator.

I think JOE54 is saying you should consider using the regulator for the 16 amp system too, to avoid the possibility of overcharging.
(I could be wrong tho)

[JOE54]

^^^^^^ that's right ecu can become fragile from electrical abuse from overcharges

[Merc2.4]

EuropeanAM and JOE54, thank you. I think I’ll stick with the regulator.

So did this regulator look like a big rectifier? With 2 wires? 1 to rectifier hot post and 1 to stator post? Just curious cause I got a 150 set up like that also

[JOE54]

2.4 one u got is 16 amp stock set up checkout pic in #1 post ,what he has

[eh2000]

I have not gotten back home yet. I should be able to order the parts in a few days and then start getting it fixed. Probably going to use the regulator part number recommended by EuropeanAM, but cut the bullet connectors off and use Ancor butt connectors. Pretty sure over charging is impossible with an functioning regulator.

[Merc2.4]

Ya mine was different. This one looks just like a rectifier but its alot bigger with 2 wire goin to rectifier,

[JOE54]

YUP

[eh2000]

I ordered part number 8M0084173 from European Marine this evening. Thanks for the help finding the right part number and the discount code too.

[EuropeanAM]

[JaySmithRacing]

Just received a 260 yesterday that a customer bought site unseen and first thing I saw was 1 225 Pro Max style regulator “jury rigged” on a plate instead of the correct rectifier system , I’m amazed what I find in these engines, no wonder they don’t live !!!

Jay @ JSRE

[eh2000]

Jay, very curious indeed. What is a 260 supposed to come with?

To anyone following this thread still, I received the new Mercury voltage regulator as recommended by EuropeanAM today and installed it. Along the way I learned that both of the bullet connectors on the yellow wires coming from the voltage regulator were very loose. While I can't say that caused the problem, I'm sure it didn't help. The photo below shows one of the connectors that I was able to pull off the wire without any tools.

[JaySmithRacing]

16 amp stator and 1 rectifier ...
Is what’s on a stock 260-Drag motors ...

Jay @ JSRE

[eh2000]

Checked the boat out today, but to my surprise my problem is not solved. I still have 12.3 volts with the engine at idle. I assumed the voltage would be higher. After installing the new voltage regulator the battery does not appear to be charging. Additionally, my tach no longer works so I was unable to evaluate at high idle or even WOT. I’m going to double check my connections Monday afternoon in case I made a bad connection. If they test good then I’ll need to test the stator and I think I’ll need a DVA for that. Not sure why the tach would stop working, but it must be related. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

[leonreno]

The tach wire is connected and run from the regulator, so as you stated check connections.

[eh2000]

I checked the new connections this afternoon and they are tight enough that I can't pull them apart. Below is a photo.



I wired it exactly like the old Voltage Regulator with the exception of the new ground wire. I'll find a new location for the ground on Tuesday and attempt to verify the continuity of each of the wires. I also checked the two fuses that I know about in this system and they were both good. When I wired the new voltage regulator I used both yellow wires to the yellow wires coming out of the Stator, one red wire with the inline fuse to the thicker red wire that is going to the starter solenoid, the grey wire to the grey wire. I have one red wire left over, which is the same as the previous Voltage Regulator was wired up, which doesn't mean it's right.

The following are my troubleshooting assumptions:
I should get AC voltage out of the Voltage Regulator from the grey wire that goes to the Tachometer. I can check this with either my Multimeter or a test light.
I can check the yellow inputs to the voltage regulator for continuity and they should output to the red wire(s).
I think I can l check the yellow outputs from the Stator with a DVA on a Multimeter.
Not really sure how to test the ground wire.

Thanks for the help y'all.

[revlimiter]

What’s your voltage with some rpm? You won’t get hardly anything from a stator at idle.

[eh2000]

revlimiter, thanks for the reply. With a multimeter attached to the positive and negative battery terminals and the engine at idle it showed 12.3 volts and would not rise with increased RPM. Because my Tachometer was not working I do not know how high the RPMs got while I was warming the engine up. Once I have the Tach issue worked out I will have a better idea of the Stator output.

Any ideas?