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  1. #1
    Member
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    Oct 2019
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    Keswick, Ontario
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    1,502

    Livewell control cable sticking

    I'm sure this is common. New to me boat. 1997 692VS.
    The 2 switches are very hard to move. I had to go to the valves to free them up as I thought I was going to break the switches.
    Has anyone freed theirs up? Can really only oil the ends.
    These are strictly mechanical right?
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  2. Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Canton, GA
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    378
    #2
    Looks like you have the same cable as mine...a flo rite. I took the entire cable out and stood off the top of my deck and dripped oil into the plastic sheath until it came out the bottom. Gravity will oil it all the way through. I worked the wire in and out as I oiled it. Did this in the summer and has worked nice so far.
    David
    2014 Ranger Z521C
    Fishing Lanier, Hartwell, Tennessee River & Coosa River


  3. Member
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    Oct 2019
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    Keswick, Ontario
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    #3
    That sounds like a lot of work but might be the only way.
    I was thinking about disconnecting them just so you can work the cable back and forth.
    I wonder what new ones cost?

  4. Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Spring Hope,NC
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    7,254
    #4
    Mine were tight like that too. I disconnected the cable from the valve and put a drop of oil in it then forced the oil in with an air nozzle. Still a PIA but it’s quicker. You could also get new cables. Sometimes the valve gets so gunked up that it is hard to turn too,you might clean,rebuild or replace those.

  5. Member
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    Oct 2010
    Location
    Canton, GA
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    378
    #5
    Taking the cable out and running it back isn’t that hard. Use some fish tape to put it back in. Also, Disconnecting and Connecting each end to its respective mechanism is as simple as it gets. If you get a new one, you’ll have to go through the same process and You would want to oil the new one too. So I f it were me, I’d try oiling the old one first and put it back in and see how it does. Good luck!

    And I think the new one is around $40 from Ranger.

  6. Member
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    Oct 2019
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    Keswick, Ontario
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    #6
    Update.
    I disconnected the cable at the valve.
    Cable runs smooth and so does the valve when disconnected.
    It’s all about cable management. The cable is too long so it has to take a longer route to get to the valve.
    I managed to push it deep into the bilge to give it the least resistance, but it still sucks.
    Luckily I very rarely use my live wells, but I’m trying to restore everything to it's original glory.
    Last edited by Ranger Rod; 12-02-2019 at 09:00 AM.

  7. mikesxpress
    Guest
    #7
    Routing the cable with the least amount of hard bends 1st. Use graphite suspended in light oil to lube the cable until it runs out the opposite end.

  8. Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Sanford NC
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    863
    #8
    Go on Amazon and order a bottle of control cable lubricant for motorcycles, graphite based lube and is self migrating, should fix problem
    Comanche20 (Don)
    2008 Ranger Z 20, 225 RUDE
    Ultrex 45/36/112
    2 Birds
    2020 F150 LIMITED Eco Boost

  9. Member wmitch2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Fresno, Ca
    Posts
    4,341
    #9
    Oiling the cables helps, but, a lot of times it's the valves bening gummed up. You should clean and lube then at least every couple years to keep them moving easily. I rebuild mine every other year and lube my cables by disconnecting them at the front and back and then hold the front up as high as possible and pull the cable out until it bumps the bottom cable against the sheath, then putting a little Motorcycle cable lube in the end, then working the cable back and forth. I do this about a dozen times and it lubes the whole cable. Then put it all back together.
    Ranger Boats / Mercury Motors
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