NY dot will fail a bus if they have anti seize on the studs
https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/ope...%20Nuts%202012
NY dot will fail a bus if they have anti seize on the studs
https://www.dot.ny.gov/divisions/ope...%20Nuts%202012
2011 Ranger z521/2023 250ProXS
Northern Michigan, salt snow mud ect. Everything gets anti seize or Loctite if it is exposed. CJ
2002 X19 200HP OX66 HO Vmax,HPDI lower, it lives, thanks Hydro Tec.
Y’all get one guess which side of the fence saltwater boat owners stand on this issue
You Don't Know what you Don't Know until you Know.
1984 Champion 201/Yamaha 175
1986 Ranger 390v/Yamaha 200
2002 Viper Cobra Coosa 216/Mercury 225EFI
2002 ProSports ProKat 2200/Twin Yamaha 150HPDIs
So what do I do with all these SS lug nuts? Dissimilar metal fasteners...use anti-seize vs wheel studs...don't use anti-seize.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
I removed the open lug nuts on my Ranger Trail years ago and installed closed end stainless nuts. Dab of anti-sieze on just the threads (not the contact area). Reduced torque from 100 to 85 ft lbs. My rig is used in fresh & saltwater.
Roy
2020 Triton 18 Trx
Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
Bravo FS 24P Prop
Atlas 6” jp
Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
Minnkota Ultrex.
2017 Phoenix 819
2016 200ProXS, s/n 2B359849, Mod 1200P73BD
Im a bus mechanic for my local school district and Our CHP inspector explained to us that the only reason they dont want anti sieze used is because some guys will put it on too heavy and it gets on the tapered surfaces of the nut and wheel and they can back off. Other than that he said its a non issue but yes if there is evidence of it they can write it up.
Roy
2020 Triton 18 Trx
Mercury 200 Pro XS V8
Bravo FS 24P Prop
Atlas 6” jp
Dual Humminbird Helix 10 MEGA SI
Minnkota Ultrex.
I use the closed chrome lock nuts and antiseize in moderation. Never had a problem. I also carry a m18 1/2" milwaukee impact gun, impact sockets, and a jack, I have helped two boaters on side of 85 coming back from Kerr Lake. They had a 4 star lug wrench nad it would not budge. I offered my jack, impact socket, and gun. I did mention it could break off a lug nut or two.
One boater all 5 nuts removed no broken lugs. Second boater 2 of the 5 lugnuts.
Small dab of anti seize on the first thread of the studs, when you put the nuts on it will crate a thin layer between stud and nut. also on the back of the rim where it contacts the axle hub. No problems in the last forty years.
Ed R.
2006 ChampioN 198 225 Optimax
Pinky finger of grease has always served me well. Lubricating the threads is not going to cause a over-torque IMO. Lubricating the mating surface of the lug and wheel will.
2002 Tr-19 200 ox66
Any type of lubricant on a threaded fastener requires a reduction in torque by 10-20% depending on the size of fastener.
No lubrication on wheel studs. Read your owners manual for the trailer. Here is an example of the instructions from karavan trailers Recommended Torquing Procedure for Mounting Wheels
1. After dismounting old wheel, remove all dirt, rust, grease and oil from stud threads. Do not lubricate threads.
2. Position wheel on trailer. Inspect to insure full contact between mounting surface (seat pads) of wheel and mounting sur-
face of hub or brake drum.
3. Start wheel nuts on studs.
4. Finger tighten top nut, then rotate wheel so that the number 2 nut is at top and finger tighten. Finger tighten remaining
nuts in numerical (crisscross) order; always tighten nuts in top position.
5. Repeat Step 4, rotating wheel and finger tightening nuts until all nuts are snug.
6. Tighten nuts in same fashion as described in Steps 4 and 5. Nuts should be torqued to 80-90 ft. lbs. Retorque nuts after
50 miles of driving and periodically thereafter.
7. After wheels (with tires) have been mounted, visually inspect to insure noninterference with body or other component
parts. Be sure to inspect wheels in all possible positions (extreme turns, etc).
NOTE : Check the fit of your lug wrench, an oversize wrench results in mutilated lug nuts.
A thin coat of Nuclear grade N1000 for me.
Valid points on both sides. As for the science behind it, most of the time I'll lean toward but good ol fashion tried and true wins every time.
Today’s world is a game of CYA.
Manufacturers and regulatory agencies are much more concerned about liability, however remote, that a wheel might unintentionally come loose and have no incentive to be concerned if you are stuck on the side of the road with seized lugs.
We are all still entitled to exercise our own judgement as to what is in our best interest.
To each their own judgement.
You Don't Know what you Don't Know until you Know.
1984 Champion 201/Yamaha 175
1986 Ranger 390v/Yamaha 200
2002 Viper Cobra Coosa 216/Mercury 225EFI
2002 ProSports ProKat 2200/Twin Yamaha 150HPDIs
I use a dab of grease and a torque wrench, 90 lbs on all wheels.
I would never use Stainless steel as lug nuts. I worked in a steel mill for 43 years, we made special metals. Mostly Stainless steel. Stainless steel is actually a soft metal, hence the term galling. It doesn't take much to over torque any ss nuts, bolts,or screws. I hear people say that ss is the hardest types of steel. The uses of ss,is to avoid corrosion and creates a tight seat on aircraft and other applications to also prevent the metal from contraction and expansion from cold and heat. And lubricants are not applicable on ss.Stainless steel is also not used for moving mechanisms without a bushing. Any bearings made of ss is balanced to be concentric to the surface to prevent wear.
Last edited by Crestliner16; 12-25-2019 at 10:59 AM.