This is how I replace rotten transoms in all boats. The skinning cut is different from hull design to hull design but the process works in all transoms. It is easy to cut rotten transoms out but the devil is in the details. Your first is always the hardest since you must learn how to make your power tools work at the best efficiency. Now, many transoms later, I can turn one around in as little as 2 weeks all Vinylester epoxy jobs take longer. First - layout where you are to cut with 2in blue tape. A 3in flange is preferred by me in large engine applications, 2in under 100HP. I use a saws-all with a short metal cutting blade to cut the inside line of tape through the skin into the wood. Take your time. After outline is cut, patiently pry skin off. The more damage done to the skin at this point the more work on the other end. Once skinned I cut a grid of lines 2in wide vertical & horizontal anywhere the wood is solid. After removing the easy stuff I use a old air chisel blade and ball peen hammer to break out the squares. A Fein tool is used to cut 1in cuts in good wood between the flange and inner skin. After cutting use hammer and punch to break the pieces out. For cleaning up all the wood from the inner skin I use a Dewalt 9in Grinder/Buffer with these killer grinding disc I buy from a body shop supply house. Grind off all wood as clean as pictures posted. I have 3 right angle die grinders with 3in, 2in, & 1in 24-36grit rotoloc discs. These are used to clean the flange out of all wood residue. A 5in air grinder from harbor freight is used with the disc installed backwards to grind the backside of the flange. I need to do this post in stages so look at the pictures, your prep work should look like mine. More later,
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