With winter hitting now I doubt I’ll get it back on the water to test it when it fails . How much voltage does this motor pull at full speed. I’ve pretty much ruled out the plug and breaker at this point . It’s a motor or battery issue now . I use my boat every weekend all day . I’m not sure how long a battery like these should last ? Thanks
Ok my tester showed up with a 100 amp load it pulled them down to 11.2 volts a piece and just to the edge of what the tester is saying is weak . I’m guessing a continuous load like running the motor for a couple of hours is going to be worse . What’s your thoughts battery’s no good any longer ?? Thanks
What is the voltage when they are fully charged?Originally Posted by 008wagon
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
I believe 12.8 if I remember correctly.
I’d expect to see them closer to 13V. What charger?
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
It’s a ranger boat dual pro charger . I’m currently charging them now . My starting battery is reading 15.4 and both trolling batts are showing 13.3 this is with the charger plugged in . Main is showing green and trolling batts show about half charge
Ok I just checked again trolling batts are at 13.7 charging still . Main is showing 13.4 and it is green light
Ok all batteries finished completely charging up. I unhooked the chatter and waited a hour . All are at 13.2 . Going to wait at least 24 hours and see what they read . One trolling battery took a while longer to finish up .
No way it could be 13.9 unless it is on the charger.
Your post implies you are running one grp 31 agm battery. is that correct
Is this 24 or a 36 volt ultrex
That fully charged should be about 12.85 volts with surface charge removed for each battery
All TM batteries in series should identical preferably
the series battery pack is only as good as the weakest battery
If every battery is equal at 12v each, the trolling motor should still work fine, just make a little less torque
Thank You Leon Pugh
If you going to use a load tester, it should be a carbon pile type so you can adjust the load to 1/2 of the rated cca and hold there for 15 seconds, voltage should remain above 9.5 volts, with two minute rest period between test you should be able to repeat this 3 times before it starts falling below 9.5
As Cat Fan mentioned though all that is really important is that at the end of days use. all the batteries should have very close to the same voltage and preferably above about 12.3 volts or better
TM batteries it is not important what the CCA is, it is all about reserve minutes and amp hours, most batteries for deep cycle use have Low cca and high reserve
State of Charge Sealed or Flooded Lead Acid battery voltage Gel battery voltage AGM battery voltage 100% 12.70+ 12.85+ 12.80+ 75% 12.40 12.65 12.60 50% 12.20 12.35 12.30 25% 12.00 12.00 12.00 0% 11.80 11.80 11.80
Last edited by lpugh; 11-27-2019 at 09:54 PM.
Thank You Leon Pugh
Wagon,what was the result after 24 hours? Bob
Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go
They are sitting at 13.1 volts a day later. I just find it strange that if the motor was the issue it would wait so long before it happens. One of these batteries must be getting bad a few hours in is my thoughts. I just don’t want to spend money if I don’t need too
I would not replace the batteries. I would be pulling on wire and connectors looking for something loose or blackened. When there is a loose connection heat is created and resistance increases. I know you upgraded your plug and wire to #6. #6 wire needs a larger crimp die to make a proper crimp. Also the connectors need to be the proper size to get a good connection. I believe your problem is not your batteries after hearing the rested voltage is 13.1. Bob
Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go
I agree with Bob regarding connection issues. A poor connection causes voltage drop resulting in the TM not getting full battery voltage. Like Bob said, look for something loose or showing signs of heat, or the blue-green of corroded copper.
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
All connections are clean and tight . I redone all but the ones at the battery’s. They look fine also . If it was a connection issue wouldn’t it appear sooner than it is ?
The wiring is not new though it’s a 2012 ranger that came with 6 gauge wire . I have not pulled and inspected the whole length of it though .
The voltage from the batteries will drop as you use them. If there is a connection issue, the point where the TM voltage is too low will happen earlier in the day.
Do you have a plug at the front for the TM?
If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity,
nothing else matters.
Yes there is a plug brand new battery tender . Still happens with it . I may have just found the problem though . Went to loosen a 3/8 nut on a positive terminal and the whole post made a cracking noise and it wiggles back and forth. It’s like it’s separated deep inside the battery
If it is loose you will need new. Bob
Tell me where has a slow movin' once quick draw outlaw got to go
Do you think this could of been my whole problem? It takes a little pressure to make it move but it was definitely weak to begin with. Would this cause a voltage loss after a while of running? Thanks
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