Thread: New to me TR-21

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  1. #1
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    USA New to me TR-21

    I'm in the process of upgrading from my 1999 Nitro NX-882 (original owner) with a 150 XR-6 to a 2003 Triton TR-21 Bass Masters Classic Limited Edition with a 225 Optimax (non Pro-XS) and need a few pointers on my new to me ride.

    First, the boat has been fairly well taken care of and has ~300 hours on it, I'm buying it from a friend in my club so history and driving behavior are fairly well known, he's an older fella, so it wasn't beaten or raced.

    What I'd like to know are what are the quirks with this specific year and motor setup. Are there any tricks to setting it up and getting the best performance out of it? I have read that there is a gas smell in the compartments (and smelled a little in the boat) and also read the fix on this forum, i think i will be performing this as soon as I get it if it becomes a problem.

    How about trolling motor? It's coming with an 80lbs Fortrex, i want to upgrade to a modern trolling motor with spot lock features, just need to know if 80 is adequate enough, or if 100+lbs of thrust is a much better fit which would include adding another battery.

    How about shoot thru hull sonar, is there a pad or build in location that Triton recommends for putting the puck in the hull and how about running wires to the back, fairly easy or is there a trick for it?

    Optimax requirements, I've read about needing a strong cranking battery (1000+ CCA) to start the motor, how does this woth with electronics, i usually ran an group 29 Dual Purpose battery in my boat and never had an issue, I don't know if they make dual purpose batteries with 1000+ CCA's (have not researched yet), but am willing to take recommendations.

    Finally, recesses trolling motor pedal wells, is there anything i should be concerned before i put on of these in the boat, anything I should stay away from? Do i need one if I get a Garmin or other remote control pedal trolling motor?

    Thank you,
    Last edited by MeBassn; 11-19-2019 at 07:29 PM.
    2020 Merc 250 Pro XS 4S - S/N 2B745597

    -------------------------
    Eric
    AWFC(NAC/AW) USN (Ret) - P-3C Flight Engineer

    2003 TR-21 Bassmaster Classic Edition
    2020 Merc 250 Pro XS 4S
    Garmin 126sv (x3)
    LiveScope LSV 34 // 60A Monster Lithium
    Garmin Force 50" 36v // 3 Ionic 50A Lithium

  2. Member
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    #2
    It will chine walk some trimmed out, just learn to drive through it. I run a 6" jackplate at about 2.5" below pad, plenty of water pressure. Should see low to mid 70's with an avg load. 26p tempest plus is a solid prop for speed.

    80# troller is fine, if u fish tidal Rivers a 36v would be better. Put in a recess troller pedal if it doesn't have one, good how to posts on here for the specific model.

    Biggest piece of advice for the motor is get an sc1000 smartcraft gauge and monitor temps on takeoffs!!
    Fyi, I have the exact same boat motor combo so reach out with questions.

    Running wires to the rear is fairly easy using a small wire fish on the stbd side and removing the radio storage compartment.

    Trailer maybe an issue if it's original, rots from the inside and crossmembers fail.

  3. Member
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    #3
    There is a flat spot in the rear passengers side for a through hull puck to set and the current puck may be there now. I ran an 82# thrust motor on mine and I fished the Potomac and the upper bay with it. I run a 4 blade on my 2004 it came with a 26 tempest but I didn't like how it ran since the motor was always on the limiter. I run a 27" trophy with an 8" hydraulic jack plate but I have a 2005 225 efi which has more power than a regular opti max and by myself it will go 78.

  4. Member Fish_4_Five's Avatar
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    #4
    I had an 80# motorguide an you should be ok. The 112 ultrex is much better IMO. I'd never go back.
    2004 Triton TR21, 225 proxs

  5. Member
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    #5
    Fish_4_Five boats drives itself even without a trolling motor. Right down out the driveway!

  6. Member Fish_4_Five's Avatar
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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by TeamBoatDock View Post
    Fish_4_Five boats drives itself even without a trolling motor. Right down out the driveway!
    It's the screaming lady and the cat saying I've sat to long....it's time to fish!
    2004 Triton TR21, 225 proxs

  7. Member
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    #7
    I've got the same rig with a 250 Yamaha SHO on it. Like you, I bought it used.

    Mine chine walks way too much above 68 mph. I have had it up to 70 a time or two but it's not safe. I don't see how anyone could get mid 70's out of one.

    I've got a 112 Fortrex 36 volt on mine. My previous rig was a 392 Ranger. Comparatively the Trition takes a lot more room to turn with a trolling motor. I fish standing timber some and it's tougher to move side to side. I don't often spool my trolling motor above 50% but when I need it, I need it.

    My trailer is original and that I know of, doesn't have rust problems. That said, it leaks water for 2 or 3 days after a trip. I Beams would have been a better choice.

    It fishes well. Plenty of room. Compared to my old Ranger, I can feel my partner walking around in back of the boat easier. But that is rather minor. Mine does have a trolling motor recess in it.

  8. Member
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Fish_4_Five View Post
    It's the screaming lady and the cat saying I've sat to long....it's time to fish!
    Okay, so what is the rest of this story?:)

  9. Member
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    #9
    KYSkipper sounds like you need to raise your motor up higher. Prop to pad needs to be above 2.5 inches or it will walk.

  10. Member
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    #10
    If you fish current, go for at least 101lb. If you lake fish 80 should be ok. My 80lb did not keep up with mississippi river current. The 101lb does fine.

  11. Member
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    #11
    Thank you all for the advice, ill be measuring the prop shaft to pad and adjusting as stated before i hit the water. The boat is now in my driveway and awaiting some TLC and a few minor fixes / upgrades before I buy any fun stuff lol... First up are LED trailer lights, the current lights are ok, but need to get that upgraded since a couple dont work. Then tires and rims, tires are original and so are rims, a couple have filiform corrosion so they will have to go. Going to get a new crankin battery X2 brand, i like the group 27 in this battery, plenty of power and reserve capacity for electronics. Have to transfer at least 1 of my 999's from my old boat for helm use, it has a lowrance flasher and also an elite 5 on a mount with the transducer mounted on a transom saver hunk of plastic... have to figure out of my 999 SI will work where this thing is located... i'm not to keen on the location.

    Let the fun begin
    2020 Merc 250 Pro XS 4S - S/N 2B745597

    -------------------------
    Eric
    AWFC(NAC/AW) USN (Ret) - P-3C Flight Engineer

    2003 TR-21 Bassmaster Classic Edition
    2020 Merc 250 Pro XS 4S
    Garmin 126sv (x3)
    LiveScope LSV 34 // 60A Monster Lithium
    Garmin Force 50" 36v // 3 Ionic 50A Lithium

  12. Member
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    #12
    It's got a hydraulic jack plate on it. I've toyed with it at a lot of levels and never got the walk out of it. The guy that put my new Yamaha on it test drove it a good bit and he is what I would call a expert driving rigs at high speed. He couldn't get the walk out of it either. It makes a difference how much fuel is in it. I can drive it faster fuller on the tanks than I can at say 1/4 tank.

  13. Member
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    #13
    I can drive my TR-21 @ WOT no matter what the fuel load is. My boat will ALWAYS WALK If I let it......I just dont let it happen by using the steering wheel to keep the hull balanced, when it's on top of the water and hauling the mail!



  14. tracer1 tracer1's Avatar
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    #14
    I have a 10" hydraulic on mine & don't envy think about the P to P measurement. I know where the "sweet" spot is with the plate. But I'm running a 250 SHO with a Bravo FS 27p 4 blade. Prop is awesome.